Getrag 265 parts break down

Thomas76

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Manual transmissions seemed simple before tearing into this. It all started when a fellow E9 enthusiast asked me if I wanted a bad transmission for parts. He had left the trans on a shelf for 15 or more years, as he learned if you don't spin it from time to time the gears dry out and rust deeming them useless.
I thought it would be fun to follow a manual and disassemble this thing. There are a few bearing races and gears that are pressed on with a significant amount of force, these require fairly specific tools I didn't have (typical pullers don't reach or fit these tight spots). I decided along the way to sacrifice 4 bearing races by cutting them off.
The case is in good shape and the synchro's look pretty good, consider all gears and shafts are not usable due to possible rust on critical surfaces.
Here is the end result for anyone wanting a good picture of how many parts fit in your expensive 265.
FYI- the assembled trans in back is impatiently waiting to go in my car.
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It would have fooled me, as it sure looks from a distance to be usable!

Any obvious signs that, upon closer inspection, will classify it as trash ?

Would it be noticable from the outside to tell it's state (fate?)
 
@Thomas76, did you actually find rust? I wonder if some light rust is a problem if you were to drain the transmission after a short drive, running through all the gears to ensure there is engagement and some load.

Totally get that rust would be an unwelcome abrasive suspended in the oil, but one has to wonder about the condition of any used unit at this point.
 
@eriknetherlands no way to tell from the outside unfortunately.
@boonies the transmission shop that opened this up the first time said rust on the critical surfaces of mating gears is what kills em. Story goes he turned down working on it (no money in his pocket) any further after discovering the problem, that tells me his experience has red flags.
I don't have proof of that but the reduced surface area that occurs with rust supports the theory. One could argue if only reverse was bad it wouldn't matter because it doesn't see heavy use.
With most of the rebuild cost going to labor I wouldn't risk it, but maybe someone experienced could try it.
Yes, I do see rust on my forward gears.
 
This is a very good looking assembly on my view.

Next time, you disassemble a Getrag use heat and cold.
I mean a hot air blower and ice spray.

I disassemble my whole gearbox without any bearing puller easy.
With the ice spray you cool down as example the shaft after heating the bearing at ~80°C
Ther bearing will fall off the shaft by itself.

Breiti
 
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In my latest picture notice the gear on the left(1st I believe) near the top. Heavy pitting in a critical gear.
 
@Breiti I had been told that Getrag 265's can't be rebuilt all or partially because of the force needed for certain parts ( guess it's the bearings). By applying heat and cold it sounds like you can take it apart completely. Are parts available then to do a rebuild?
 
Well, Hulleman classic gearbox in the Netherlands does rebuild them.

 
I only change the main bearings and the shaft seals as preventing.
Gears and synchronize rungs where in great condition.

Breiti
 
@Breiti I had been told that Getrag 265's can't be rebuilt all or partially because of the force needed for certain parts ( guess it's the bearings). By applying heat and cold it sounds like you can take it apart completely. Are parts available then to do a rebuild?
I thought the issue was that one of the bearings is NLA and not substitutable.
 
A Belgian company made them a few years ago: they take a std bearing, turn a groove in it, and place a ring on them to form the collar.

edit: just went looking for it, and it was "Munich Icons" who sold them. Acc their facebook they stopped making them some time ago.
 
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A Belgian company made them a few years ago: they take a std bearing, turn a groove in it, and place a ring on them to form the collar.

edit: just went looking for it, and it was "Munich Icons" who sold them. Acc their facebook they stopped making them some time ago.
Is that the bearing pressed into the third (rear) section of the case, by the output flange?
 
I install it in a 242 4 speed.
If you check the part list, you will see those numbers (6306N) as example. Also you will see there a C3 in addition at some bearings what stand for a bigger clearance bearing.
All those parts are almost standard parts.

A cheer on the German "Norm System DIN"

Good luck.

Breiti
 
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