Got my baby back from the soda blasters!!!
- Thread starter chicane
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ScottAndrews
Well-Known Member
I hate to be the one to tell you this, but this is not going to be fast or cheap...
THe fenders will need to be removed (a major PITA on this car), and you may want to consider finding some "new" ones, given that yours are rusted through top and bottom.
With that much rust in the A Pillar area, I suspect the pillars are also gone, as are the rockers.
Unfortunately, what you have is going to take more than a few patch panels.
I suggest you look at Malc's posts to get a feel for the scope of this daunting project.
S
THe fenders will need to be removed (a major PITA on this car), and you may want to consider finding some "new" ones, given that yours are rusted through top and bottom.
With that much rust in the A Pillar area, I suspect the pillars are also gone, as are the rockers.
Unfortunately, what you have is going to take more than a few patch panels.
I suggest you look at Malc's posts to get a feel for the scope of this daunting project.
S
Malc
Well-Known Member
Chicane,
The Jaynic patch panels are OK, but often need a lot of work to get them to fit. Some panels it's worth buying the BMW originals from Wolloth and Nesch and or other sources.
MAlc
The Jaynic patch panels are OK, but often need a lot of work to get them to fit. Some panels it's worth buying the BMW originals from Wolloth and Nesch and or other sources.
MAlc
Oh, you'll be watching the money. Watching it disappear!
Sorry -- the :twisted: made me do it...
chicane
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No one said anything about fast sir. And I didn't say anything about cheap either, just that I need to watch my money. It's amazing that you can give such a negative assessment (from a few pics) when you haven't even seen the car in person. First of all the rust is actually very localized and the car is very straight and, besides the usual suspects, is pretty much rust free. Now if you don't have anything positive to add...
Malc
Well-Known Member
Chicane,
I can testify to the not fast routine!
I don't think folk are being negative it's just that it's a lot of time and effort to repair stuff as I am finding out. I think the thing that got me was how extensive the rust was once I started to repair, especially in the sills (rockers). It just didn't look that bad when I first got the dear old bucket.
I must admit I was almost at the point of giving up but with encouragement, mainly from her indoors I kept going. Certainly bits are a bit daunting, but plenty of cups of tea and just sitting looking at it I have been able to work out how to do stuff.
I suppose the worst thing has been that I struggle for hours trying to get something sorted and then when I step back it looks like you have done bug*er all. However I think there is light at the end of the tunnel and I don't think it's a train coming the other way!
If you need any pictures and or help sorting stuff out give me a shout
Cheers
Malc
I can testify to the not fast routine!
I don't think folk are being negative it's just that it's a lot of time and effort to repair stuff as I am finding out. I think the thing that got me was how extensive the rust was once I started to repair, especially in the sills (rockers). It just didn't look that bad when I first got the dear old bucket.
I must admit I was almost at the point of giving up but with encouragement, mainly from her indoors I kept going. Certainly bits are a bit daunting, but plenty of cups of tea and just sitting looking at it I have been able to work out how to do stuff.
I suppose the worst thing has been that I struggle for hours trying to get something sorted and then when I step back it looks like you have done bug*er all. However I think there is light at the end of the tunnel and I don't think it's a train coming the other way!
If you need any pictures and or help sorting stuff out give me a shout
Cheers
Malc
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
The engine bay rust (aroud the rain channels) is going to be the worst part to fix. Most body shops can fix the normal places, like the rockers, but to fix the engine bay, you are going to have to invest a lot of time, money, or both. It will certainly require the removal of the mechanicals.
It looks like it has rusted on both the fender and bay side of the rain channels, and considering the cost of new fenders and new bay panels, you may have better luck finding a good metalworking guy to pound out the right shape for you. Or, if you want to minimize the welding, you may be able to find a complete front clip and weld that in.
How is the trunk? The spare well is usually more gone than there.
I don't know man, that is usually more parts car than resto, with that kind of rust. If you took it to a body shop, I'd say they would quote you about 20k to fix it and give it some paint. Depending on where you are, I know a great body guy with very reasonable prices, if you are interested. He did a great job on my coupe.
It looks like it has rusted on both the fender and bay side of the rain channels, and considering the cost of new fenders and new bay panels, you may have better luck finding a good metalworking guy to pound out the right shape for you. Or, if you want to minimize the welding, you may be able to find a complete front clip and weld that in.
How is the trunk? The spare well is usually more gone than there.
I don't know man, that is usually more parts car than resto, with that kind of rust. If you took it to a body shop, I'd say they would quote you about 20k to fix it and give it some paint. Depending on where you are, I know a great body guy with very reasonable prices, if you are interested. He did a great job on my coupe.
mark
Well-Known Member
saw this today on my weekly german tool tray trawl. no doubt the freight would be a killer though ...
http://cgi.ebay.de/BMW-E9-Front-mit...1QQihZ006QQcategoryZ96363QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.de/BMW-E9-Front-mit...1QQihZ006QQcategoryZ96363QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
saw this today on my weekly german tool tray trawl. no doubt the freight would be a killer though ...
http://cgi.ebay.de/BMW-E9-Front-mit...1QQihZ006QQcategoryZ96363QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
_________________
mark
-how can you tell from a small and bad quality foto ,that this one is any better (after sandblasting) then chicane's ?
http://cgi.ebay.de/BMW-E9-Front-mit...1QQihZ006QQcategoryZ96363QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
_________________
mark
-how can you tell from a small and bad quality foto ,that this one is any better (after sandblasting) then chicane's ?
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
If keeping costs down is your main concern, I'd take the thing apart, make it a roller. A lot of the body shop's cost to you is based on what they have to remove. Since yours is soda blasted, it will cut your price considerably if you get the mechanicals out of the car.
If doing the body work yourself, or with help, removing the mechanicals is still the first step. This step will take some time, and give you a chance to save up some money for the body work. Take your time and label everything.
Since you are still kinda "up in the air" about how to proceed, removing the mechanicals is the next logical step, since it will have to be done no matter what path you pick, unless you decide to sell the car.
If doing the body work yourself, or with help, removing the mechanicals is still the first step. This step will take some time, and give you a chance to save up some money for the body work. Take your time and label everything.
Since you are still kinda "up in the air" about how to proceed, removing the mechanicals is the next logical step, since it will have to be done no matter what path you pick, unless you decide to sell the car.
Whoa -- don't shoot the messenger -- he's only trying to help. Having been down this road more than once myself, this advice is dead on. The fenders will need to come off so you can access the inner panels. The underhood sections are made up of at least three layers which will need to be removed and welded back in one at a time. Same goes for the inner sections of the lower fenders. Fortunately most of these parts are still available.
I have pictures of my current coupe as it was being done (but not by me - I didn't have the patience this time around). The fenders weren't removed, but the tops were sectioned to allow access. I could send you some of the pictures if you would like to get a better idea of the work involved in the engine bay.
Time and money...
Unfortunately, I agree with alot of what is being said. It doesn't look good.
What you don't see is what's going to hurt.
Speaking from my own experience, the fender tops are a virtual rats nest, and really, from the looks of yours, the best course of action would be the buy the fender clip.
That being said, I live in New England, the rust capital of the country and I was able to find a set of fenders to hack out of a salvaged vehicle. (Not in the best condition, but certainly serviceable.)
If you have a bit of experience with bodywork and metal work, some space to do it, and A LOT of patience, you can do this on your own. MIG welders are very forgiving, and most of the parts can be found on the web, and with the helpful guidance of Malc and a few others who have gone down this road.
There's alot you can do on your own, especially if you find a body shop that's willing to work with you.
Unfortunately, I agree with alot of what is being said. It doesn't look good.
What you don't see is what's going to hurt.
Speaking from my own experience, the fender tops are a virtual rats nest, and really, from the looks of yours, the best course of action would be the buy the fender clip.
That being said, I live in New England, the rust capital of the country and I was able to find a set of fenders to hack out of a salvaged vehicle. (Not in the best condition, but certainly serviceable.)
If you have a bit of experience with bodywork and metal work, some space to do it, and A LOT of patience, you can do this on your own. MIG welders are very forgiving, and most of the parts can be found on the web, and with the helpful guidance of Malc and a few others who have gone down this road.
There's alot you can do on your own, especially if you find a body shop that's willing to work with you.
ScottAndrews
Well-Known Member
Sorry you took my post as negative. It's just that, based on my experience, and watching projects like Malc's, this car needs a LOT of work. The problem is that the car rusts from the inside out, so when you see perforation to the outside, you can be sure that the inside is about 2 to 5 times as bad.
You will need to remove the various body parts and get to all the rusty bits. Cut, patch and replace each part, and then go to the next layer. The reason the fender seams rust out is that the sheetmetal there is complex, and there are many places where panels are joined and welded, and many places for water to get trapped.
The E9 is a coach built body, so you can't just unbolt the fenders. You will need to cut them off up near the windshield. That will then expose the A pillars (Or what's left of them). And then you can really assess the depth of your problems. Since making an A Pillar is probably too expensive, you will probably end up finding another body, maybe one that got hit from the rear, and welding in new parts. No matter how you slice it, it's a LOT of work. I didn't mean to be nasty in my post, but the fact is that, this job is going to take a lot more than a few Jaymic patch panels, and the sooner you come to terms with that, the better off you will be.
As I said, Malc is the go-to guy on this sort of work, so I defer to his judgment.
S
You will need to remove the various body parts and get to all the rusty bits. Cut, patch and replace each part, and then go to the next layer. The reason the fender seams rust out is that the sheetmetal there is complex, and there are many places where panels are joined and welded, and many places for water to get trapped.
The E9 is a coach built body, so you can't just unbolt the fenders. You will need to cut them off up near the windshield. That will then expose the A pillars (Or what's left of them). And then you can really assess the depth of your problems. Since making an A Pillar is probably too expensive, you will probably end up finding another body, maybe one that got hit from the rear, and welding in new parts. No matter how you slice it, it's a LOT of work. I didn't mean to be nasty in my post, but the fact is that, this job is going to take a lot more than a few Jaymic patch panels, and the sooner you come to terms with that, the better off you will be.
As I said, Malc is the go-to guy on this sort of work, so I defer to his judgment.
S
chicane
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Re: Time and money...
Unbelievable. I tell you, you do not know rust. What these small cars have, is what i would call, moderate rust compared to what i have been exposed to. I used to own, restore, and evaluate mid sixties Pontiacs and I tell you I have seen rust that would have most of the forum members here running for the hills. Cars that that had complete frame rot, the entire bottom half just gone. And people would actually restore these cars! I have had daily drivers that had worse rot than this car.
Please, if the discussion is a lecture on how "bad" the rust is, please spare me and keep the comments to yourself. If you have more practical DIY comments that can help lead this vehicle to it's logical success (back on the road and track) then please do tell.
Unbelievable. I tell you, you do not know rust. What these small cars have, is what i would call, moderate rust compared to what i have been exposed to. I used to own, restore, and evaluate mid sixties Pontiacs and I tell you I have seen rust that would have most of the forum members here running for the hills. Cars that that had complete frame rot, the entire bottom half just gone. And people would actually restore these cars! I have had daily drivers that had worse rot than this car.
Please, if the discussion is a lecture on how "bad" the rust is, please spare me and keep the comments to yourself. If you have more practical DIY comments that can help lead this vehicle to it's logical success (back on the road and track) then please do tell.
ScottAndrews
Well-Known Member
See my post for a few pointers. Look up Mal's posts for a lot of really good photos and such.
All that said, the E9 is not built like a Pontiac. You CAN restore them extensively, but the issue, as I said is in the way the body is constructed, and in the availability of some of the deeper parts (although BMW Mobile Traditions does make quite a few parts that are known to rust...rockers, internal beams, etc).
Good luck.
S
All that said, the E9 is not built like a Pontiac. You CAN restore them extensively, but the issue, as I said is in the way the body is constructed, and in the availability of some of the deeper parts (although BMW Mobile Traditions does make quite a few parts that are known to rust...rockers, internal beams, etc).
Good luck.
S
psychrunner
Well-Known Member
Re: Time and money...
Wow! I think it wise to heed the feedback of those who are knowledeable (which I do not profess to be) re: the idiosyncracies of the e9. I believe a Pontiac it is not. The csi e9 I am having restored looked almost perfect (particularly compared to the pics i see of yours - please take no offense)
but when the restoration shop began to strip paint, etc, low and behold there was the rust. Wish you the best though.
chicane said:
Wow! I think it wise to heed the feedback of those who are knowledeable (which I do not profess to be) re: the idiosyncracies of the e9. I believe a Pontiac it is not. The csi e9 I am having restored looked almost perfect (particularly compared to the pics i see of yours - please take no offense)
but when the restoration shop began to strip paint, etc, low and behold there was the rust. Wish you the best though.
Well, I think he knows what he's in for at this point, so let's not beat it to death. Start with the fenders -- I'd remove them per prior posts. That will give you a good idea where to start. The other troublesome spot is the rocker panels. They are basically made up of an inner panel, a reinforcement, an outer panel, then the screwed on cover you see on the outside. Hopefully your's are okay, but if the outers are rusted through, you'll want to remove them to assess the inner support panel.
That thing is certainly fixable -- with time and patience. Break out the welder, get a new spool of .024 wire and a fresh fill on the CO2/Argon tank and have at it. Post some pictures while your at it, too.
That thing is certainly fixable -- with time and patience. Break out the welder, get a new spool of .024 wire and a fresh fill on the CO2/Argon tank and have at it. Post some pictures while your at it, too.