Grease Fitting Add On

Vintage56

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Hello Everyone. I had a simple question (but maybe there's no simple answer): since the E9's ball joints and tie rod ends do not have grease fittings, I am thinking about adding 6 of them to the front end components of my 1971 3.0cs. I wanted to ask if others have done this and if there are others who think that this is not a good step to take.

My thoughts are that the grease fittings, if there, would extend the life of the suspension components, as opposed to leaving them as they are knowing the grease will eventually harden and quicken their demise. I plan to drill small holes in the ball joints and tie rods and then cut some threads into the holes with correctly-sized taps.

I have seen others use needle extensions on the tips of their grease gun to pierce the boots and insert grease into the joint. But, using this method, I don't see how the grease would be put into the exact place where the joints meet. Plus the boot would be pierced exposing the joint to the elements/dirt/etc. I also thought of sealing the holes made with weatherstripping cement, but still don't see how the grease would get to the exact place where it should be and just fill up the boot.

Has anyone done the grease fitting modification I am suggesting and has it made any difference?
Thanks for the feedback.
 

Krzysztof

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As long as the rubber boot on the ball joint is intact and the spring in this is typically long lasting part.

Adding a grease input require to have place/vent excess (used) grease will move out.

Too much grease will damage the rubber seal or the pressure with slide it off which will be the end of the joint.

New joints have too less grease (savings), so sometimes I'm using syringe to push more grease in (but not too much) sliding the needle between rod and rubber seal.
It is helping to extend the lifetime of the joint significantly.

If the joint is dismounted and is not showing any play it can be washed with the rubber seal being off and assembled with new grease with proper volume (still not too much :) )
 

bengal taiga

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Installing zerk fittings seems like a good idea, but . . .
Unless you are able to start with a pre-assembled joint, you risk damaging the ball when tapping the receiving portion of the unit to accept the grease fitting. This includes the possibility of nicking or gouging the ball or inadvertently introducing particulate metal with the otherwise unadulterated grease. It "might" be easier to replace the oem steering linkage joints with heim joints. However, the practicality of such an exercise is another subject. ;)


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Vintage56

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@bengal taiga Thank you for the response. The tie rods and ball joints are new(er). I was just looking to take a small step that may extend their lives indefinitely. The risks of debris and nicking the joint are a consideration. Perhaps well-enough left alone.
 

Krzysztof

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Technically it is possible - yes.

But the greasing with the input sockets require to have a vent where the old/used grease will come out.
Leaving as is will require to loosen the spring or remove the rubber boot to remove the excess of the grease.
Keeping it will rising pressure is asking for troubles as even with the new grease with water, dirt or salt the lifetime of the joint will be limited significantly.


As it was mentioned by Don between the lines. Well made lifetime parts does not need any re-greasing.

I just can confirm that having original joints over 30 years without any problems.

BTW

Many pre-war (2nd WW) BMWs (but not only) have had Central Lubrication system consisting of several pipes providing oil to critical moving parts.
There was special oil distributor.

BMW 315/1 greasing system
1709033624918.png


1709033640267.png

source: https://fredericfriedrichs.de/de/Fahrgestell.html

System was not environmental friendly so many after-war cars were having dozens of places for regular greasing which was real PITA

1709033847599.png

Greasing plan for FSO Warszawa car from 1950 era.

I think - taking into account technology and mileage - it is much better to spent time required in the past for greasing for other activities around the car or just for having fun with driving. Just my opinion.
 

Vintage56

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All of the thoughts/suggestions have been very helpful. As I mentioned, I am not having an issue with the tie rods or with the ball joints and, since these are all relatively new, I don't plan to have any issues for quite some time. So I appreciate the suggestions and will just leave well-enough alone. The tie rods and ball joints all have intact rubber boots. So I'll just leave them this way. Thanks for the helpful feedback!
 

Frederick

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The thyroid boots can be replaced, and of course, grease added. They’re not hard to find, however, not terribly expensive.
The ball joints,however, are another story. I would say it’s close to impossible to replace the boot as the metal band holding the boot is made into the body of the joint.
The the skeptic in me says BMW thought it could make more money selling the entire control arm than it could selling little rubber boots. But unfortunately, the control arms are becoming less available and ain’t cheap.
 

Vintage56

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The thyroid boots can be replaced, and of course, grease added. They’re not hard to find, however, not terribly expensive.
The ball joints,however, are another story. I would say it’s close to impossible to replace the boot as the metal band holding the boot is made into the body of the joint.
The the skeptic in me says BMW thought it could make more money selling the entire control arm than it could selling little rubber boots. But unfortunately, the control arms are becoming less available and ain’t cheap.
It's why my first inclination was to figure out how to service the tie rods and ball joints with the use of a grease fitting. I don't want to damage what is now an intact joint. But as they wear and time passes, it will only get more difficult (and expensive!) to replace them....
 

sfdon

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Tie rods are 65 bucks..... go buy some spares now?
 
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