Thanks for admitting me to the group. I have owned an BMW E3 (3.0s) since 1992 (restored by myself early 00s or so) but I also wanted and looked for an E9 over the years and earlier this year I actually managed to buy one. It is a 1972 3.0 CSI in Ceylon where I am the third owner. I bought it from the second owner (now 70 years old with too many cars) who had it since the early eighties. First owner was a Norwegian who lived in Germany and bought it new and later imported it to Norway in 1977. It has not been registred since 2000, but started and driven some each year. It is in good condition with matching number (chassis/engine) and have been stored indoors most of its life. It had some small rustrepair done in the front inner wings when the second owner bought the car, and a respray. My first plan is to adress the brakes which is binding a bit and change fuel hoses, fluids etc. The original rims followed the car so I also plan to put them back on with new tires and remove the lepard Seat covers from the 80s and put it back on the road in the spring. Added some photos and one of my E3 as well.
Greetings from Norway
- Thread starter MortyBMW
- Start date
Hi,
Very nice car!
I like this color as very similar to the first car of my father (not E9 but Fiat...).
It is great that some many of E9s were kept away from weather and UV.
It is interesting how many E9s were produced with that color?
Very nice car!
I like this color as very similar to the first car of my father (not E9 but Fiat...).
It is great that some many of E9s were kept away from weather and UV.
It is interesting how many E9s were produced with that color?
Here's a graphic I've saved on my hard drive. It might be from this site, but I'm not sure of that.
Nice color, welcome!
Cool car. I have a couple of suggestions when addressing your brakes (my car sat for several years before I bought it). First, replace the rubber lines at each caliper. For a car that has been sitting, these will have deteriorated and will cause trouble if not replaced. I recommend stainless steel replacements. Second, when disassembling the rear brakes, make sure to cap the lines where you take them off because if you allow air into the rear of the system, you risk allowing any contaminents in the rear brake lines to flow into the proportioning valve. I had this happen, my valve got clogged and had to be replaced. This could easily have been prevented.
Last tip, when you address the brake calipers, be sure to address any rust you find on the piston near where it goes into the caliper. This will cause binding and potentially seal problems if you don't do this. If you have a lot of rust, the pistons may need to be replaced when you rebuild the calipers.
Last tip, when you address the brake calipers, be sure to address any rust you find on the piston near where it goes into the caliper. This will cause binding and potentially seal problems if you don't do this. If you have a lot of rust, the pistons may need to be replaced when you rebuild the calipers.
Beautiful cars !!!
Love the color, welcome to the group
You will find many answers here.
CHEERS!
You will find many answers here.
CHEERS!
This is exactly what happened with mine when they were binding. All cleaned up and working well now.
The registry contains color data, and hence rarity by color.
Baikal Bimmer
Well-Known Member
I’ll second that, once had car where the rubber brake line piece failed, not good. Save yourself the regret later on,
Braided Stainless steel all the way!
I've heard of braided stainless steel lines for years, but never knew what the stainless braid was wrapped around? Rubber? or something better?
Wikipedia provided the answer. Teflon lines!
Wikipedia provided the answer. Teflon lines!
Where rubber hoses typically consist of a rubber inner hose wrapped in a textile reinforcement braid then covered in an additional rubber outer sheath, braided stainless steel hoses typically consist of a Teflon® or generic PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) inner hose wrapped in a braid consisting of stainless steel wire. The stainless wire braid more effectively resists expansion due to pressure inside the hose core. This improves brake system effectiveness by more directly transferring operator input (hydraulic pressure) to brake friction surfaces.
Yes, to add more detail, when the particular rubber hoses in our cars deteriorate, they can give off small pieces of rubber into the hydraulic fluid. This debris can become lodged in parts of the system, preventing the flow of hydraulic fluid. This is precisely what happened with my brake proportioning valve when I removed my rear calipers and did not plug the lines. This eliminated the pressure from the master, which had kept the debris near the caliper and somehow the crap migrated backwards in the system up to the valve, filling it and preventing fluid flow. And I'm pretty sure this crap could have become lodged elsewhere, if allowed to float around in the system. Best to remove the source of the problem.
I managed to get the CSI back on the road with the original reg.plates in the summer this year after 21 years off the road. Did some driving/trips and attended a BMW Classic gathering in September. The brakes performed fine with new hoses and rebuild calipers + handbrake mechanism. Changed fuel lines/fuel hoses, wheel bearings and many other small fixes and checks. Removed the wheel arch chrome and used the orginal wheels again (that followed the car) with new tires and new stickers on the hupcaps. Now it is parked for the Winter-season and some fixes to be done during winter!
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Good wheel choice, looks great!