Grub screw problem

Laldog

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I received the Ignition Grub Screw a few days ago and went to install it.

It seems that the "hole" intended to receive the Grub Screw had been drilled out or in any case is much larger than the tiny grub screw.

I'm assuming that I will need a new ignition cylinder (that has the proper sized grub screw hole).


I'm also assuming that the grub screw secures the Ignition switch and prevents it from spinning when the ignition key is turned to start the engine.

Is there any alternative to replacing the ignition cylinder?

Thanks in advance for the help
 

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The grub screw does prevent the switch from spinning, and It keeps the switch from falling out of the cylinder.
The post on the switch also keeps the switch from spinning.

I would use a 1/4" long sheet metal screw as a grub screw.
 
I received the Ignition Grub Screw a few days ago and went to install it.
It seems that the "hole" intended to receive the Grub Screw had been drilled out or in any case is much larger than the tiny grub screw.
I'm assuming that I will need a new ignition cylinder (that has the proper sized grub screw hole).
I'm also assuming that the grub screw secures the Ignition switch and prevents it from spinning when the ignition key is turned to start the engine.
Is there any alternative to replacing the ignition cylinder?

grubscrew1-jpg.182853




grubscrew2-jpg.144218
switch2-jpg.144216





I hope I am not misdirecting you, but is it possible that you have the ignition switch cylinder improperly oriented? Can you gently remove the switch and reinsert it? Assuming that your ignition switch has the threaded portion that receives the grub screw, can you rotate it or reorient it so that it appears in your "photo with the drilled out portion?

I do not completely follow the problem, including any prior modifications, or the need therefore. However, I can think of numerous "inelegant" and temporary means of securing the switch. For example, you could temporarily try wedging a sliver of a plastic toothpick between the switch assembly and the barrel into which it fits. Duct tape? Epoxy? A more permanent solution might be to fill the apparent void with silver solder or alumaweld. Even a small piece of sheet metal plug that fits the void (similar to a locking key way) with a carefully positioned hole would seem potentially workable. At this rate, a few more images of the problem area might yield some more intelligent/imaginative responses from others.
 
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