Header Removal

kys911t

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Is it possible to remove the Headers with the motor still in the vehicle? It almost looks like they had to have been on the manifolds when the motor was installed. I was able to get to two bolts on one of them but having a difficult time on the third, (furthest on to the rear and runs closest along the trans. Trying to make a little space to get my new relief hose, that was baked and cracked, onto the top of the Auto Trans.
 
Is it possible to remove the Headers with the motor still in the vehicle?

By and large, yes. Much depends upon the header design and that may include the style of fasteners used.

Your lament is not uncommon. Some of us have issues removing even the stock manifolds, not only because of limited access but because the fasteners have a tendency to rust and become rounded over. Mechanics tend to be limited by: the size and dexterity of their digits, available leverage, available tools and ingenuity. Without seeing your particular operation, have you considered stubby wrenches, manifold wrenches, 1/4 drive sockets and crow's feet, to name but a few tools that seem to work in tight spaces?

You mention transmission "relief tube." Can't help but wonder whether you wouldn't be better off changing your approach - especially if the "tube" is so close to the exhaust plumbing.

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Header install/removal can be a real beee=yatch. It took me hours and hours to get mine in. Apparently there is ONE WAY and you have to have everything in just Eggs Ackley the right position, and they "fall right in". I used only metric combination wrenches, but some of the nuts were a tight fit, and tough to get at. The locking "washer" BMW uses on their copper washed 12 mm exhaust nuts makes you wonder if they are 12 or 13 mm, is a PITA as well.

Bonus points if you remember Eggs Ackley.
 
exhuast nuts- may the force be with you.

Perhaps I misunderstood..... three nuts would indicate to me you're dealing with a down pipe and exhaust manifold rather than a header.

Several choices... soak, soak, and soak again the nut with real rust penetrant; not WD. Apply heat if you have to.. sometimes tighten a bit first then loosen.

If all else fails take off the manifold rather than the down pipe. Then you can work on it. Don't go Rambo and break the stud.

Real Headers, yeah man. Better to reach the center nuts from under than over. Hard, one flat at a time, but doable. A very thin wrench helps.

On MMercury's suggestiion perhaps a tube made up of metal and rubber might help. Just a thought.
 
Sorry for the confusion. Yes I mean the Exhaust pipe as it connects to the Exhaust Manifold. Number 4 - 18111246255. I got 2 of them loose (actually they were fairly easy with a little spray) the third is kind of on top hidden from direct view from below but I can see it and feel it if I look from the botton and to one side. Thats the one thats giving me trouble.
 
A lot of jockeying around and a lot of support from the forum the mission accomplished. (long extension, deep socket and swivel did the trick from the bottom). thanks
 
Pipes

Funny how things work....stock exhaust isn't cheap. Full on CoupeKIng show....whoa! I finished my car all custom, by myself, August. So many options....B35 manifolds vs stock....headers vs B35. The goal for me was to have a bung at the merge for the wide band O2. From there it was EZ. Replaced all studs, nuts, and associated bits. The savings for my own work...I now have a lift so all is possible....many thanks again for Sven who got me inspired. Gaskets....the 35's suck. Integral heat shield et al. I intend to use the stock shield(s) fabrication required. For now, all is in place. EZ to disassemble and make an upgrade. Kinda' what the coupe is about....pay to play for sure. Never over till it is over.
 
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