Headlights
- Thread starter kealaiki
- Start date
the flasher switch?
Based on those symptoms the most likely culprit is the flasher switch (stalk?).
If you pull it out check for continuity between the pins that go to Yellow and Yellow-White wires. Lack of continuity in the low light position means the switch is bad.
The other possibility is the light switch itself. See if you have 12V at said
Yellow-White wire when the light switch is ON. If you don't then the light switch is bad.
In either case there appears to be no relay on the low beam circuit, so
it is reasonable that these switches die young.
Based on those symptoms the most likely culprit is the flasher switch (stalk?).
If you pull it out check for continuity between the pins that go to Yellow and Yellow-White wires. Lack of continuity in the low light position means the switch is bad.
The other possibility is the light switch itself. See if you have 12V at said
Yellow-White wire when the light switch is ON. If you don't then the light switch is bad.
In either case there appears to be no relay on the low beam circuit, so
it is reasonable that these switches die young.
Re: the flasher switch?
No relay, and no fuses in the low or high beam circuit. Re-wiring with fuses and relays is highly advised.
No relay, and no fuses in the low or high beam circuit. Re-wiring with fuses and relays is highly advised.
second thoughts
Yep, no fuses but there is a relay for the high beams. I can see it and hear it in mine. It is #22 in the diagrams:
http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/autobooks/appendix/autobooks_manual_156.htm
I put H1-H4 Hellas last week on the E24 and was planning to do the same next on the E9. Now I am getting second thoughts. I know the Hellas (even with the basic 55W bulb) draw more current than the DOTs because I had to go to a 10Amp fuse on the E24 high beams (7.5A was blowing). I am not thrilled about adding current to the E9 low beam circuit sans relay.
How do Euro's get away with this setup? Is there a clean way of adding a relay with some inline fuse to keep the rewiring modifications minimal?
Yep, no fuses but there is a relay for the high beams. I can see it and hear it in mine. It is #22 in the diagrams:
http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/autobooks/appendix/autobooks_manual_156.htm
I put H1-H4 Hellas last week on the E24 and was planning to do the same next on the E9. Now I am getting second thoughts. I know the Hellas (even with the basic 55W bulb) draw more current than the DOTs because I had to go to a 10Amp fuse on the E24 high beams (7.5A was blowing). I am not thrilled about adding current to the E9 low beam circuit sans relay.
How do Euro's get away with this setup? Is there a clean way of adding a relay with some inline fuse to keep the rewiring modifications minimal?
MPD47
Member
Here is how I would suggest rewiring the headlights (if you really want to attack it)
[Broken External Image]:http://www.mturck.com/headlightrewire.jpg
Sorry for the crude drawing, but you get the idea.
[Broken External Image]:http://www.mturck.com/headlightrewire.jpg
Sorry for the crude drawing, but you get the idea.
H1's don't draw too much more than a US sealed beam, and after all, that's what the cars were designed for. The problem is 30+ year old wire and funky corroded connections, and the increased resistance (and consequently, heat) that happens.
I assume you know that if you're popping the proper size fuse, putting in a higher rated one is not a good solution. :|
EDIT: Mike, my comment above about fuses is in response to Arde's comments about his e24, I hope it didn't look like I was dogging you.
I assume you know that if you're popping the proper size fuse, putting in a higher rated one is not a good solution. :|
EDIT: Mike, my comment above about fuses is in response to Arde's comments about his e24, I hope it didn't look like I was dogging you.
MPD47
Member
Yes, I am. I actually drew that up for HID's or Euro E codes for 944's but it does apply here if you wanted to go "all out" for lighting.
This is hopeless. I am looking at the electrical diagrams and finding so many unprotected
circuits... How many E9s have gone through the trouble of rewiring and fuse protecting it?
Maybe I'll just put a fire extinguisher under the seat and be done with it.
I could do a couple of in-line fuses right at the battery 12V lines, but its gotta be a large amp value and not protect some downstream shorts.
circuits... How many E9s have gone through the trouble of rewiring and fuse protecting it?
Maybe I'll just put a fire extinguisher under the seat and be done with it.
I could do a couple of in-line fuses right at the battery 12V lines, but its gotta be a large amp value and not protect some downstream shorts.
Unless you have thing for originality or you intend to join the Royal Anal Retentive Order of the Q-tip, there's room for improvement in e9 wiring. There are what, 8 fuses for the whole car? My personal theory is that the e9 was the last car BMW designed before they hired an Electrical Engineer. Later e3's and e9's had about 12 circuits and fuses, and the e12 went up to a whopping 17 or so...
I re-wired my headlights a few years ago ala' the method illustrated above by Mike. I discovered the unprotected nature of that circuit when I carelessly reversed the power and ground wires on one of my H1's and let all the smoke out of about half the wires on the engine side of the firewall. I also added a ground wire to the instrument panel to help cease the random wavering of the gauges. There's a Motronic 3.5 swap in the car's future, and with that will come a new fusebox.
I re-wired my headlights a few years ago ala' the method illustrated above by Mike. I discovered the unprotected nature of that circuit when I carelessly reversed the power and ground wires on one of my H1's and let all the smoke out of about half the wires on the engine side of the firewall. I also added a ground wire to the instrument panel to help cease the random wavering of the gauges. There's a Motronic 3.5 swap in the car's future, and with that will come a new fusebox.
Unless you have thing for originality...
Well, if I didn't I wouldn't be driving a 1972 car
I agree that the E9 to E24 electrical sophistication differences are striking.
I'll get the E9 shop service manual and start thinking what to change, if any.
Thanks to all for the pointers.
Well, if I didn't I wouldn't be driving a 1972 car
I agree that the E9 to E24 electrical sophistication differences are striking.
I'll get the E9 shop service manual and start thinking what to change, if any.
Thanks to all for the pointers.
decoupe
(deceased)
Instrument panel lights
At some point I have lost my instrument panel lights - just the illuminiation lights. All of the guages, idiot lights( parking brake, high beam, oil etc) low and high beams - basically everything works. My schematic shows all of them going back to the light switch (58) to pick up power.
The light switch dimmer function toasted? New switch called for?
Wouldn't be such an issue but the speedo is in mph and Canada is kmph - park zone speeding ticket is $250!!!
Last post for the day, I promise.
Doug (in the dark)
At some point I have lost my instrument panel lights - just the illuminiation lights. All of the guages, idiot lights( parking brake, high beam, oil etc) low and high beams - basically everything works. My schematic shows all of them going back to the light switch (58) to pick up power.
The light switch dimmer function toasted? New switch called for?
Wouldn't be such an issue but the speedo is in mph and Canada is kmph - park zone speeding ticket is $250!!!
Last post for the day, I promise.
Doug (in the dark)
Malc
Well-Known Member
Hello Doug,
Probably the reostat bit of the light switch has died.. Cheap, but no means always successful cures is to take a can of electrical contact cleaner to the switch.
You can always jump the wire for the instrument lights to see that you don't have multiple bulb failure.
By the way the switch is common to the BMW 2002 , 1602, 1502, 2000 as well so you should be able to pick one up at a reasonable price
Malc
Probably the reostat bit of the light switch has died.. Cheap, but no means always successful cures is to take a can of electrical contact cleaner to the switch.
You can always jump the wire for the instrument lights to see that you don't have multiple bulb failure.
By the way the switch is common to the BMW 2002 , 1602, 1502, 2000 as well so you should be able to pick one up at a reasonable price
Malc
And e12's and e21's. I must have 10 of them in the garage.
decoupe
(deceased)
Headlight Switch
The correct part is 61311377281. Bav Auto sells it for $33.95 and PartsBMW.com will sell it for the rock bottom please don't ask for a discount price of $188 95!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pays to look around,
Thanks Malc and Velo
The correct part is 61311377281. Bav Auto sells it for $33.95 and PartsBMW.com will sell it for the rock bottom please don't ask for a discount price of $188 95!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pays to look around,
Thanks Malc and Velo