Heater smells toxic
- Thread starter inmantua1
- Start date
JhwShark
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking in two directions, with your limited description...toxic smell ??only when the heater valve is open is an Oil or coolant type smell??
If smell is from incoming air have you checked for a small exhaust leak, but wouldn't you smell it with the heater valve closed and fan on??
If smell is from the hot coolant...maybe a small crack in the water lines at a joint within the heater core (my MGB had/has this issue, I bypassed my heater valve and will replace next time I am diving in the engine). Try running a bypass hose and see if the smell is repeatable.
Jon
If smell is from incoming air have you checked for a small exhaust leak, but wouldn't you smell it with the heater valve closed and fan on??
If smell is from the hot coolant...maybe a small crack in the water lines at a joint within the heater core (my MGB had/has this issue, I bypassed my heater valve and will replace next time I am diving in the engine). Try running a bypass hose and see if the smell is repeatable.
Jon
Air intake for heater
The heater draws air through the openings on the hood to the center on top of the firewall . The plate there is on top of the heater blower.
There is a rubber moulding that runs along the top of the firewall that seals to the hood seperating the intake air from the engine compartment.
First make sure this moulding is in place, intact, and doing it's job. Recently, there's been mention of the two rubber drain tubes being an issue. But first the main seal.
Smell- toxic- please better describe the smell- burning oil, gas, or sweeter would mean coolant. Two extra clamps and a 3" section of 1/2" copper pipe from you're local hardware store would bypass the heater. ( You're gonna loose some coolant.) I do this as we have a greater need for a/c here and yes there is a small amount of heat bleeding through.
Oil burning- should be evident- valve cover leaking, etc.
Gas- carbs or FI? running rougher?
The heater draws air through the openings on the hood to the center on top of the firewall . The plate there is on top of the heater blower.
There is a rubber moulding that runs along the top of the firewall that seals to the hood seperating the intake air from the engine compartment.
First make sure this moulding is in place, intact, and doing it's job. Recently, there's been mention of the two rubber drain tubes being an issue. But first the main seal.
Smell- toxic- please better describe the smell- burning oil, gas, or sweeter would mean coolant. Two extra clamps and a 3" section of 1/2" copper pipe from you're local hardware store would bypass the heater. ( You're gonna loose some coolant.) I do this as we have a greater need for a/c here and yes there is a small amount of heat bleeding through.
Oil burning- should be evident- valve cover leaking, etc.
Gas- carbs or FI? running rougher?
Last edited:
Jerry
Sorry to hijack this thread but is it noticeably cooler when bypassed? I could use this here also. What about installing 2 small inline valves in the send and return hoses for winter/summer use? This would allow coolant to stay inside the heater to keep it lubed etc, and allow for an occasional flush but keep the hot liquid out.
Sorry to hijack this thread but is it noticeably cooler when bypassed? I could use this here also. What about installing 2 small inline valves in the send and return hoses for winter/summer use? This would allow coolant to stay inside the heater to keep it lubed etc, and allow for an occasional flush but keep the hot liquid out.
Steve
If by measureable, you mean did my discharge a/c temp go down by 5 degrees; yes. Same thing goes for the seals around the heater motor. A 2 dollar stick thermometer ( at Ace) will tell you fast. A good clean system and you should get near 40- 42 degree air. Don't even think about that pan undercover where we live. ( I have headers too!) The other thing is the shifter seal- slips down, etc. Get it in place. ( Quiet too!) Last but not least- the little covers for the window motor holes/ door card seals. Yep, be surprised what comes through at 110 outside degrees.
No to the valves; unless you can put in a full bypass for head cooling/ carb heating. ( Pretty tight area) I've always assumed this was necessary since BMW didn't put in a valve like the 2002s etc that's still available. If you use the 1/2 copper, and slightly twist the rubber 90, you get full flow. Works lke a champ for me and it started out with seeing if the heater core had a pin hole!
Any body need a new , in the box heater core? I don't. Thought I did.
If by measureable, you mean did my discharge a/c temp go down by 5 degrees; yes. Same thing goes for the seals around the heater motor. A 2 dollar stick thermometer ( at Ace) will tell you fast. A good clean system and you should get near 40- 42 degree air. Don't even think about that pan undercover where we live. ( I have headers too!) The other thing is the shifter seal- slips down, etc. Get it in place. ( Quiet too!) Last but not least- the little covers for the window motor holes/ door card seals. Yep, be surprised what comes through at 110 outside degrees.
No to the valves; unless you can put in a full bypass for head cooling/ carb heating. ( Pretty tight area) I've always assumed this was necessary since BMW didn't put in a valve like the 2002s etc that's still available. If you use the 1/2 copper, and slightly twist the rubber 90, you get full flow. Works lke a champ for me and it started out with seeing if the heater core had a pin hole!
Any body need a new , in the box heater core? I don't. Thought I did.
I won't forget leaving San Antonio a few years ago heading for Baton Rouge..
It was July.
The IR thermometer read 145 degrees at the seatbelt bracket and I thought I was going to just die.
Stopped at Bucky's and bought 100 lbs of ice for 10 bucks and packed it all around me to cool off.
I was so proud of myself for being really smart- Until I noticed the rising tide around my feet.
Pulled into Baton Rouge in 2 inches of warm water..
All my cars have upgraded AC now.
It was July.
The IR thermometer read 145 degrees at the seatbelt bracket and I thought I was going to just die.
Stopped at Bucky's and bought 100 lbs of ice for 10 bucks and packed it all around me to cool off.
I was so proud of myself for being really smart- Until I noticed the rising tide around my feet.
Pulled into Baton Rouge in 2 inches of warm water..
All my cars have upgraded AC now.
Hell's bells...
Don-That's what the plugs in the floors are for!
San Antonio heat- Military school... standing in parade.. September... the polish on my boots would just slide off... that's hot.
I thought I'd seen it all till Palm Springs- built Desert Springs Resort... got off the plane the first time... down the ramp.... Shoes literally stuck to the tarmac walking into the terminal. That's hot!
Don-That's what the plugs in the floors are for!
San Antonio heat- Military school... standing in parade.. September... the polish on my boots would just slide off... that's hot.
I thought I'd seen it all till Palm Springs- built Desert Springs Resort... got off the plane the first time... down the ramp.... Shoes literally stuck to the tarmac walking into the terminal. That's hot!
LOL- I was a newbie back then- If I had a hammer and chisel I woulda punched a hole in the floor. 500 miles with stewed feet- 12 gallons of steaming water slopping at my toes- not to be forgotten.
I had a Spitfire and it would not go 10 miles without breaking down or going prince of darkness on me so i cant believe you made the drive in a stag without incident...
That is 1300 miles of waiting for the engine to die.....Your ears picking up the slightest sign of impending doom.
Knowing there isn't 1 single spare part in all of West Texas.
We all too old for that now- right?
Except for 2 weeks ago heading up the Grapevine in the trucking lane with the flashers on being passed by the 18 wheelers... I was sure that a Jetronic to Motronic coversion on a m106 would be a breeze....
Knowing there isn't 1 single spare part in all of West Texas.
We all too old for that now- right?
Except for 2 weeks ago heading up the Grapevine in the trucking lane with the flashers on being passed by the 18 wheelers... I was sure that a Jetronic to Motronic coversion on a m106 would be a breeze....
Yahooo!
Stuck a vette motor in the Stag that only had 12k mi. on it. 327/350. It was a dealer's wife car so he had to take care of it. Didn't even have tool 1. With the wife! She still talks about that car....
The Healy I rebuilt.. lived two miles from Moss Motors.. tires Perelli Cinturato; must have been near original... thought I was in trouble going through the swamps on I-10, thump, thump, thump all the way fro N.O to Baton Rouge in the middle of the night! Then figured out it was just the joints in the pavement!:mrgreen:
Stuck a vette motor in the Stag that only had 12k mi. on it. 327/350. It was a dealer's wife car so he had to take care of it. Didn't even have tool 1. With the wife! She still talks about that car....
The Healy I rebuilt.. lived two miles from Moss Motors.. tires Perelli Cinturato; must have been near original... thought I was in trouble going through the swamps on I-10, thump, thump, thump all the way fro N.O to Baton Rouge in the middle of the night! Then figured out it was just the joints in the pavement!:mrgreen:
The Prince of darkness...
Oh we are well aware of the dark prince's tricks. 6vs, bad wiring, etc.
Spitfires- my Dad once won one in a poker game, Booray. It was sitting outside for me one day! There was absolutely no one willing to work on Triumphs so you better be good at fixin and drive 45 miles for parts.
Oh we are well aware of the dark prince's tricks. 6vs, bad wiring, etc.
Spitfires- my Dad once won one in a poker game, Booray. It was sitting outside for me one day! There was absolutely no one willing to work on Triumphs so you better be good at fixin and drive 45 miles for parts.
The only british car "shop" here back then was infamous for driving your car around for a few days while being "repaired" so thats how I learned to work on cars, the car sagged in the back from being loaded down with tools, extra coolant, and spare parts. Once in FL the alternator went out (a frequent occourrence until i discoverd the $2 connector was shorting them) so i drove back from Destin at night in the pouring rain with no lights or wipers (to save ignition power), tailgaiting my friend in his 280Z the whole way. We had cb's to communicate. Those were the days!
Here's a link to adjust the cable or manually close the vent flap if the lever is hung up somehow.......http://www.e9-driven.com/Public/Library/BMW-E9-Manual/pages/en/64111440.html#refertoc
Looks like you can get to it by opening up the glove box.
The smell- To see if the weatherstripping is working, find some kids chaulk, rub on the hood or weatherstripping, close the hood, the open and look for where there's no chaulk marks. Easy to clean up too.
Good luck....stay warm.
Looks like you can get to it by opening up the glove box.
The smell- To see if the weatherstripping is working, find some kids chaulk, rub on the hood or weatherstripping, close the hood, the open and look for where there's no chaulk marks. Easy to clean up too.
Good luck....stay warm.