help how to assembly the silent block of the stabilizer bar

[deQuincey]

i need some help on this point

the stabilizer bar has four contact points, two on the ends and two on the centre, these last ones are the objective for this question

there is a rubber block in the mentioned contact support central points, but i dont know how to assemble it,

part number 5, rubber mounting, see it in the pic

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E.../LHD/M/1974/browse/rear_axle/stabilizer_rear/


it is a rubber block with a cylindric hole in it, it is supposed to be inserted in the bar, but bar ends are so thick that i feel impossible to introduce it (i edit this: i can not introduce the rubber block by the end of the bar, no way !) so i start to asuume that i should cut the rubber longitudinally

is this right ?, if so where ? up, down, lateral ?

thanks

regards

 

[Sven]

Front side

deQ - Mine came cut along the front side (at the 3 pm position in the photo). You can just make out a joint there - where the grease was squeezed out).

I also found that I had to loosen the 4 bolts (~10 to 15 mm) holding the engine carrier to the body rails to make the installation easier. The space there is a bit tight.

 

[MMercury]

i need some help on this point

the stabilizer bar has four contact points, two on the ends and two on the centre, these last ones are the objective for this question
there is a rubber block in the mentioned contact support central points, but i dont know how to assemble it, part number 5, rubber mounting, see it in the pic
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E.../LHD/M/1974/browse/rear_axle/stabilizer_rear/

it is a rubber block with a cylindric hole in it, it is supposed to be inserted in the bar, but bar ends are so thick that i feel impossible to introduce it (i edit this: i can not introduce the rubber block by the end of the bar, no way !) so i start to asuume that i should cut the rubber longitudinally is this right ?, if so where ? up, down, lateral ?

I misread your post and obviously thought you were referring to the front sway bar instead of the rear.

I haven't looked at the bushings on my cars recently, but I seem to recall an E3 that had "D" shaped bushings cut at the 3:00 O'clock position. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=668706

Notice, however, some bushings for other makes and models are split elsewhere. I would agree that the cut portion should be located at an area that sees the least compression or contortion. Since the bracket and the subframe encircle the entire bushing, except for a corner, it is probably not critical where the cut is located. Once a bushing becomes sloppy and loses its shape, then the cut area might become an issue, but they generally have a long trouble-free life span.

See: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=399580

Hope this helps.

 

[deQuincey]

hi, thank you both
so yes i will make a longitudinal cut to introduce them !
first explanation, i was talking about the rear stabilizer, and probably that was a little confusing
but the situation is exactly the same, it is impossible to introduce the rubber silentblock from the bar end, i greased it and even warmed it up with an air gun, no way !
i was thinking about making the long cut but i was afraid of destroying the effect, now i know it is the only solution
thanks for positioning the cut at 3o'clock, that is important too !
regards

 

[Sven]

deQ - I found my old sway bar hanging on the garage wall. The bushing is cut on the opposite side. So.... I am not so sure which side the cut should go on. Perhaps it makes no difference, or you can reverse it and try both ways. Good luck.

 

[deQuincey]

deQ - I found my old sway bar hanging on the garage wall. The bushing is cut on the opposite side. So.... I am not so sure which side the cut should go on. Perhaps it makes no difference, or you can reverse it and try both ways. Good luck.

i found a manual that, for the front bar says,: the slotted end of the rubber mount faces REAR !, but this depends on the position of the bar, in the mentioned case the pic showed that the bar also faces rear

my opinion is that when the bar works there is also a horizontal force in the support that we should avoid impacting on the slotted side of the rubber bushing, so in my opinion the slotted side must always face the bar ends

(by the way, that is exactly the case presented in your old bar)

discuss ?

 

[61porsche]

cut

1. center of ( adjacent to) clamp. Or

2.Rear- at thickest point and best clamping to resist deformation force. ( corner) H&S does it this way.

In practice on the street or road the car is turning both directions therefore the reaction forces of the bar twisting are ever changing.

Now if all you have is a one way turn or banked courses, then one might load up one side. But that's what adjustible coil over suspension designs are for. ( corner balancing which many Porsches are or strive for)

 

[deQuincey]

ok, done
thanks