How do you identify your Cam?
- Thread starter Nicad
- Start date
Stamped on the end is the only way I know for sure. The side on the firewall unfortunately.
The usual markings are the cast core which normally doesn't mean much if anything.
Rumor has it that Shrick on certain cores had their name near number 5.
P.S. that's a mighty clean head. Sure looks like someone redid it very recently.
The usual markings are the cast core which normally doesn't mean much if anything.
Rumor has it that Shrick on certain cores had their name near number 5.
P.S. that's a mighty clean head. Sure looks like someone redid it very recently.
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How can you tell that porsche?
You have a sharp eye there. The motor was not set to any spot when the photo was taken. Will check the mentioned bolt. Yes, it certainly looked new when I pulled the cover. I have been taking quite a few parts off the car this week and nothing has been on very tight. I think the whole car was taken apart not that many miles ago. The headers bolts were a cinch, which was a relief. Would measuring the lift with a dial indicator give you an answer? Thanks for the advice.
Cam timing
The cam gear bolt lines up with the head boss parting line when the engine is at TDC. If not, something's not right. It's common. Easy, cheap HP.
Chains get slack. The easiest and quicky way to fix that ( not the best) is to use a chain with a master link, cut the old chain and thread the new on while turning the engine. New chain, old slack, one tooth off. If you do this, then stake the master link like a mercedes. I did mine about a year ago.
In this case, mark the chain and sprocket, take out the cam gear and move it over.
The header bolt/ nut has daylight between it and the flange. Very visible.
I don't know about dialing in a cam on a BMW without a lot of trouble of removing rocker arms, shafts, etc. The visible way is that a normal cam will be more pointed. A hot cam is more rounded is a simple visual way. Even if it ad the Shrick near number 5, there's probably no way to know which one as Shrick has thier own numbers which have to be cross checked.
It is worthwile for everyone to verify your tdc and if your balancer has slipped a bit as TDC is is an elusive state of tolerances or stack thereof. Especially if your head has to come off. Piston stop, degree wheel, or just mark your damper by turning one way , then the other. Between those two is exactly TDC. Then you know what you're dealing with instead of guessing it's right or relying on someone else's work.
Stamped on the end is the most trusted way.
The cam gear bolt lines up with the head boss parting line when the engine is at TDC. If not, something's not right. It's common. Easy, cheap HP.
Chains get slack. The easiest and quicky way to fix that ( not the best) is to use a chain with a master link, cut the old chain and thread the new on while turning the engine. New chain, old slack, one tooth off. If you do this, then stake the master link like a mercedes. I did mine about a year ago.
In this case, mark the chain and sprocket, take out the cam gear and move it over.
The header bolt/ nut has daylight between it and the flange. Very visible.
I don't know about dialing in a cam on a BMW without a lot of trouble of removing rocker arms, shafts, etc. The visible way is that a normal cam will be more pointed. A hot cam is more rounded is a simple visual way. Even if it ad the Shrick near number 5, there's probably no way to know which one as Shrick has thier own numbers which have to be cross checked.
It is worthwile for everyone to verify your tdc and if your balancer has slipped a bit as TDC is is an elusive state of tolerances or stack thereof. Especially if your head has to come off. Piston stop, degree wheel, or just mark your damper by turning one way , then the other. Between those two is exactly TDC. Then you know what you're dealing with instead of guessing it's right or relying on someone else's work.
Stamped on the end is the most trusted way.
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Oh yeah, I thought you were referring to the oil distribution tube (I must work on reading comprehension). The header nut was the first one I removed. None were very tight, but I had a hard time removing the front header till I realized that they were hitting the motor mount.
Going to send them out to get them ceramic coated. Not sure what shade they originally would have been. Hope this tech process lets them live for a long time.
Going to send them out to get them ceramic coated. Not sure what shade they originally would have been. Hope this tech process lets them live for a long time.
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Lots of info on cams-
BMW cams come with letters painted on them between # 5 and # 6 lobes.
Also have color codes ie the K cam code is Green Red Green
M is a 260 cam for b34
H is a 260 cam for b32 early
L is a 260 cam for b32 since 5/83
K is a 264 cam for euro b34, m106 and b35
On the cam end you will see
3 is a 272 forked cam
7is a 260 forked cam
I have 2 cars in the shop today with Dr. Shrick cams but both are installed- No pics available.
BMW cams come with letters painted on them between # 5 and # 6 lobes.
Also have color codes ie the K cam code is Green Red Green
M is a 260 cam for b34
H is a 260 cam for b32 early
L is a 260 cam for b32 since 5/83
K is a 264 cam for euro b34, m106 and b35
On the cam end you will see
3 is a 272 forked cam
7is a 260 forked cam
I have 2 cars in the shop today with Dr. Shrick cams but both are installed- No pics available.
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
Good time to do the dual-zone oil spray bar mod!
I did this mod, pinch the middle of the spray bar then intall this kit:
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/banjo.htm
More:
http://paulaxford.com/html/bmw730i/cam_spray_bar.htm
http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/banjo.htm
More:
http://paulaxford.com/html/bmw730i/cam_spray_bar.htm
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Area51Werks
Member
Based on the amount of material I would say it has a factory base circle. Most aftermarket cams are reground using a stock BMW cam. The back of the cam or the base circle is ground off to change the profile. So, unless Schrick uses new cores the cam in the photo I appears to be stock BMW.