How long should it take to remove the engine?
- Thread starter chicane
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x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
Probably about 2-3 hours. The longest part will be removing the stuff around it, like the rad, PS pump, AC, (if you have it) and any electronics. It generally works best if you take the trans out at the same time, so you also have to undo the transmission cross-member and the guibo from the driveshaft.
It helps to have a high roof when doing this, along with a load leveler on the engine hoist.
Alternatively, some people like to drop the front subframe, and lift the body off the engine instead. Malc did it this way, if I remember right.
It helps to have a high roof when doing this, along with a load leveler on the engine hoist.
Alternatively, some people like to drop the front subframe, and lift the body off the engine instead. Malc did it this way, if I remember right.
Malc
Well-Known Member
Yeap that's the way I did it
Malc
Malc
corsachili
Well-Known Member
Over the past 8 years of Coupe ownership I've gotten pretty good at it. I've learned how to eliminate the unnecessary steps that most people waste their time with during engine removal. With my streamlined process I've got the whole job whittled down to about.............oh, 25 minutes. = )
pj
Well-Known Member
TJ , are you in town this weekend? or are goofing around on 2 wheels, love to see ya at the Bittersweet on sunday morning
PJ
PJ
bengal taiga
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Pulling engine, one hand or two?
You did not want to hear this, but there really is no good answer to your question. Every mechanic works at his/her own pace. Typically, when the patient is nicer (more important), the surgeon exercises greater care. There are only so many helping hands that can fit simultaneously in one engine bay. And much is dependent upon the short cuts you are willing to employ. Of course, if you know you are going to perform a lot of body work later and the windscreen is webbed with cracks . . . well you hopefully catch my drift.
Having said all of the above, I recall the threat of an impending storm prompted the removal of an E3 engine (sans trans) in about 1.5 hours. Putting it back together proved much more time consuming considering that one does not do the best job of cataloging parts and wiring labeling when rushing.
Unless you have performed this procedure before, with this specific model, I would set aside much of the daylight. Working on an old patient, regardless of its seeming simplicity, is rarely straightforward. First there is the obvious dilemmas: "Do I remove the bonnet to avoid creasing the new paint? Where do I disconnect the exhaust?" Then, fasteners break that shouldn't; The best tools develop minds of their own, and don't work as planned. Wiring has a tendency to change color and location without warning. Then there are the real surprises! (I won't spoil them!)
Start early and expect to stay later than you planned. Beer, weather, the local gendarme, curious tourists and attractive members of the opposite sex rarely expedite the process.
:o :lol: :cry: :roll:
You did not want to hear this, but there really is no good answer to your question. Every mechanic works at his/her own pace. Typically, when the patient is nicer (more important), the surgeon exercises greater care. There are only so many helping hands that can fit simultaneously in one engine bay. And much is dependent upon the short cuts you are willing to employ. Of course, if you know you are going to perform a lot of body work later and the windscreen is webbed with cracks . . . well you hopefully catch my drift.
Having said all of the above, I recall the threat of an impending storm prompted the removal of an E3 engine (sans trans) in about 1.5 hours. Putting it back together proved much more time consuming considering that one does not do the best job of cataloging parts and wiring labeling when rushing.
Unless you have performed this procedure before, with this specific model, I would set aside much of the daylight. Working on an old patient, regardless of its seeming simplicity, is rarely straightforward. First there is the obvious dilemmas: "Do I remove the bonnet to avoid creasing the new paint? Where do I disconnect the exhaust?" Then, fasteners break that shouldn't; The best tools develop minds of their own, and don't work as planned. Wiring has a tendency to change color and location without warning. Then there are the real surprises! (I won't spoil them!)
Start early and expect to stay later than you planned. Beer, weather, the local gendarme, curious tourists and attractive members of the opposite sex rarely expedite the process.
:o :lol: :cry: :roll:
chicane
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Re: Pulling engine, one hand or two?
That was lovely prose but a simple ABC123 along with any gotchas will suffice.
You did not want to hear this, but there really is no good answer to your question. Every mechanic works at his/her own pace. Typically, when the patient is nicer (more important), the surgeon exercises greater care. There are only so many helping hands that can fit simultaneously in one engine bay. And much is dependent upon the short cuts you are willing to employ. Of course, if you know you are going to perform a lot of body work later and the windscreen is webbed with cracks . . . well you hopefully catch my drift.
Having said all of the above, I recall the threat of an impending storm prompted the removal of an E3 engine (sans trans) in about 1.5 hours. Putting it back together proved much more time consuming considering that one does not do the best job of cataloging parts and wiring labeling when rushing.
Unless you have performed this procedure before, with this specific model, I would set aside much of the daylight. Working on an old patient, regardless of its seeming simplicity, is rarely straightforward. First there is the obvious dilemmas: "Do I remove the bonnet to avoid creasing the new paint? Where do I disconnect the exhaust?" Then, fasteners break that shouldn't; The best tools develop minds of their own, and don't work as planned. Wiring has a tendency to change color and location without warning. Then there are the real surprises! (I won't spoil them!)
Start early and expect to stay later than you planned. Beer, weather, the local gendarme, curious tourists and attractive members of the opposite sex rarely expedite the process.
That was lovely prose but a simple ABC123 along with any gotchas will suffice.
Philip Slate
Well-Known Member
x_atlas' advise was pretty spot on. Just a couple of other things. If you are not going to take the tranny out with the engine you'll need something to support the front of the transmission once the engine is removed. A length of rope secured to something in the engine compartment works well (I have crossover mounts so that's what I use. You probably don't have those but there's gotta be something there that can be used)(Why not a jack or jack stand, you might ask? If - when - you have to raise or lower the car you won't have to juggle with the transmission too). Radiator comes out, and the other peripheral stuff mentioned earlier should be removed. Don't know how much engine removal you've done so I may be telling you things you already know, but you don't have to actually remove the power steering pump, A/C compressor from the car, just remove it from the engine. Zip ties work really well to keep that stuff out of the way. Make sure you remove all the bolts that connect the engine to the tranny. There's one about midway down on the passanger (starboard) side that I keep forgetting about. A long swivel end extension for your ratchet wrench is useful in removing some of the lower trans bolts. Not a necessity but it does make life easier. As this is your first coupe engine removal, allow about two hours to remove all the components and to disconnect the trans from engine. Yes it can be done quicker (25 minutes!!! I am very impressed) but it's better to allot more time so you don't feel rushed. Then allow half an hour to actually remove the engine. The car will very probably have to be raised, front wheels on some 4X4s, to enable the hoist to roll under the car. I'm assuming that you will be renting the hoist and balance bar. Most balance bars (weight distribution bar, whatever) are designed for Detroit Iron and will not willingly attach to the rear pick up point. This may be less of a problem on carburated cars but it's been years since I've R&R'd one of those so I don't remember. In any event, a short one and a half foot length of chain to connect the rear mount with the bar is good to have should you need it. If you're anywhere close to SoCal I can ship you my bar if you would like. Also notice that the front lift point on the engine has a big hole so a big bolt and big washer are needed. Make sure the bolt is not so big that it wont fit on the bar. Same with the rear.
Probably more than you wanted to know. Just figure that it will take a few hours of calm, relaxed work and you'll have that engine out in no time. If you're not familier with nitrile gloves, may I suggest trying 'em out. A side benefit, besides keeping your hands clean, is that when you do yourself a grievous injury, they do a wonderful job of containing the blood.
Hope some of this useful.
Probably more than you wanted to know. Just figure that it will take a few hours of calm, relaxed work and you'll have that engine out in no time. If you're not familier with nitrile gloves, may I suggest trying 'em out. A side benefit, besides keeping your hands clean, is that when you do yourself a grievous injury, they do a wonderful job of containing the blood.
Hope some of this useful.