How to disassemble window switches?

Stevehose

Stevehose

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
13,583
Reaction score
6,499
Location
Sarasota, FL
I remember taking these apart and cleaning/greasing them so they work better, but that was years ago, what is the trick to separate the black housing from the bezel? There are 2 small tabs on the ends that look like they hold it in place but not sure. Would appreciate any special technique before i go experimenting and prying the wrong piece.
 
Carefully remove the metal tabs while holding it closed. Once you separate the cover watch out for the springs flying out of place. The main thing I learned is that one set of contacts was dirtier and more worn than the other, because the other never carries current. So in addition to cleaning you can "rotate" the switch so you start using the virgin contacts. I think I have a diagram showing that.
 
Where are the metal tabs, on the long side or the short side of the bezel? I see some pins also. thanks

Arde said:
Carefully remove the metal tabs while holding it closed. Once you separate the cover watch out for the springs flying out of place. The main thing I learned is that one set of contacts was dirtier and more worn than the other, because the other never carries current. So in addition to cleaning you can "rotate" the switch so you start using the virgin contacts. I think I have a diagram showing that.
Click to expand...
 
The tabs were on the short sides. New ones were in the $35-45 range when I needed them. $5 is surprising unless Walmart got into this business lately ...
 
I know I can get these new, I like to try to rebuild the original first before buying a new one.
 
How effective is this method for fixing switches that are faulty? I am trying to help my friend who is working on his 2800cs window's and his switches are bad.

Arde said:
Carefully remove the metal tabs while holding it closed. Once you separate the cover watch out for the springs flying out of place. The main thing I learned is that one set of contacts was dirtier and more worn than the other, because the other never carries current. So in addition to cleaning you can "rotate" the switch so you start using the virgin contacts. I think I have a diagram showing that.
Click to expand...
 
It's do-able, but fussy. Take off the metal clips noting that one end has little "hooks" that fit into the underside of the plastic chromed top.

When I've done it, the hooks tore out of the chromed top (bummer) but I was able to epoxy them back together, probably permanently.

Sure like to hear where anyone can get them for single-digit-dollars new.
 
I ended up buying 4 new ones from AZ Autohaus for $85 including shipping and saved a lot of aggravation:

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=n41ukpnp3iy1aq55nj4uty55&makeid=800003@BMW&[email protected]&year=1972&cid=window@window&gid=4624@Power%20Window%20Switch

These are the early style. I put the ok ones in the back never to be used again.

charofire said:
How effective is this method for fixing switches that are faulty? I am trying to help my friend who is working on his 2800cs window's and his switches are bad.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
There is nothing wrong with the design of the 4 spade switch, the contacts are pretty beefy. The problem is that it is used directly in the motor circuit rather than controlling a really or an integrated circuit like it is done nowadays, therefore it carries the motor current on a circuit that is not even current limited by a fuse. It is operated by us troglodytes that respond to a slow or stuck window by pressing the switch harder... Tell me I am wrong.

Therefore the fate of the switch is cast by poor circuit and user constraints.

The saving graces are that you can rotate each switch and get to use a fresh pair of contacts, and then rotate switches with the seldom used rear widows and rear seats.

I am not sure but I thought the 5 spade is used for a later motor, one where you invert polarity, as opposed to dual winding motor in the 4 spade.
 
perhaps i just dreaming this ... maybe wishful thinking
wasn't there a post that rewired the motor / switch to where the full current wasn't flowing thru the switch?
 
Arde is correct, later motors and circuit breakers are in the circuit. And yes, the relay and direct current option is documented here somewhere. Jay Mackro I believe.
 
If the goal is to reduce the current flowing through the switch (which is a good goal given the design of the window motors in our cars), incorporating relays so that the current flowing through the switches needs only to operate the relay will be far more effective than changing the switches.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top