PaulinPa
Well-Known Member
Factory blue book says to use "retaining catch 7007".I don't have one of these.Is there a Auto-Zone,Pep-Boys alternative tool?Engine is from a 75 3.0Si with a manual trans.
How to remove flywheel?
- Thread starter PaulinPa
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Flywheel bolts
They're torqued to 77lbs. Which means not too bad to break with an 18" breaker bar and a large hammer to build up torque. Surely nowhere near what it takes for the crank nut. ( 350?) An impact wrench if you can borrow one. ( Nice electric ones now.)
They're torqued to 77lbs. Which means not too bad to break with an 18" breaker bar and a large hammer to build up torque. Surely nowhere near what it takes for the crank nut. ( 350?) An impact wrench if you can borrow one. ( Nice electric ones now.)
MMercury
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The purpose of the tool is to keep the flywheel stationary. VW and Porsche (and even some BMW) folk routinely use an inexpensive tool that serves the same purpose. It is commonly available through JCW. :wink:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/flywheel-lock-for-vw/p2004289.jcwx
With a little care and imagination, the same thing can be accomplished with a flat head screwdriver/ pry tool.
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
I just whipped up a little catch using a flat bar with a hole and a notch.
Ummm- thats what spare bolts lying on the floor are for. Just stick one between the bellhousing and one of the teeth.
Better yet- use the electric or air impact wrench.
That said- pulling the bolts from torque converters can be devilish...
Which is why the m30 b35 has the rubber plug.
On earlier models it's tougher- that's when the gloves come out.
Better yet- use the electric or air impact wrench.
That said- pulling the bolts from torque converters can be devilish...
Which is why the m30 b35 has the rubber plug.
On earlier models it's tougher- that's when the gloves come out.
http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=103&division=1&category=6
IF you already have a 36mm socket for the crank, you can always rest the wrench or breaker bar on the ground or find an extension ( piece of pipe and rest it on the engine compartment/ frame ) and lock the crank at the front. There's a tool like this- bolts on the hub bolts- but IIRC 70 bucks.
Probably cheaper to go to Harbor Freight- 3/4" breaker bar ( $20) and the 36mm socket from Sears.
IF you already have a 36mm socket for the crank, you can always rest the wrench or breaker bar on the ground or find an extension ( piece of pipe and rest it on the engine compartment/ frame ) and lock the crank at the front. There's a tool like this- bolts on the hub bolts- but IIRC 70 bucks.
Probably cheaper to go to Harbor Freight- 3/4" breaker bar ( $20) and the 36mm socket from Sears.
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PaulinPa
Well-Known Member
Went with the 36mm socket.Worked well.Thanks for the advice!