I'm right in the middle of doing the 5 speed conversion on my coupe. If any of you have installed a short throw shifter, could you please let me know who makes them for this application and where I would get one.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Ideas for Short Throw Shifter on 5 Speed Conv.
- Thread starter vince
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Concur with shanon.
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
Yep, UUC is the best, bar none. Of course, at the price, it had better be.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm going with the UUC kit.
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
short shifter
haven't we heard that there is a variation of shifter from a 320i that works well and could be junkyard (or dealer) sourced at less cost than UUC?
Or are we gold-plating this...?
s/
Frugal MacDougal
haven't we heard that there is a variation of shifter from a 320i that works well and could be junkyard (or dealer) sourced at less cost than UUC?
Or are we gold-plating this...?
s/
Frugal MacDougal
No gold plating going on here.
Because of the expense, I've waited for years to do a 5 speed conversion on my coupe. Now that I'm at it, another $300 bucks for the right short shifter doesn't seem completely out of line.
I laughed out loud at the coupe posted on CL recently that estimated a 5 speed conversion at $900.00.
Because of the expense, I've waited for years to do a 5 speed conversion on my coupe. Now that I'm at it, another $300 bucks for the right short shifter doesn't seem completely out of line.
I laughed out loud at the coupe posted on CL recently that estimated a 5 speed conversion at $900.00.
900 bucks for parts maybe....
300 tranny
300 clutch kit with TO and pilot bearings from g-force
100 short shift kit
50 slave and hard line
50 platform foam and supports
50 center bearing
50 guibo
50 drive shaft nuts and bolts
and the you need to pay for the driveshaft to be shortened.....
oh whoops - there goes the budget.
300 tranny
300 clutch kit with TO and pilot bearings from g-force
100 short shift kit
50 slave and hard line
50 platform foam and supports
50 center bearing
50 guibo
50 drive shaft nuts and bolts
and the you need to pay for the driveshaft to be shortened.....
oh whoops - there goes the budget.
TodB
Well-Known Member
SS
There is also a kit from Autosolutions that I have heard (no experience) is good, but Honolulu is correct, there are less expensive ways as well. Nothing is cheap from UUC but their's is a good, complete, convenient solution with all of the pieces needed thatworks well - I had one in my first E28.
Go to the Mye28 board and do a search on the topic for less expensive solutions. I want to say it can be done for ~$50 in parts.
There is also a kit from Autosolutions that I have heard (no experience) is good, but Honolulu is correct, there are less expensive ways as well. Nothing is cheap from UUC but their's is a good, complete, convenient solution with all of the pieces needed thatworks well - I had one in my first E28.
Go to the Mye28 board and do a search on the topic for less expensive solutions. I want to say it can be done for ~$50 in parts.
Bill Riblett
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I wonder about using the kits sold for 2002 5 speed conversions, like Ireland Engineering for instance.
jmackro
Well-Known Member
Hey, I have a slightly different problem that perhaps the folks on this thread can shed some light on. My coupe got a 5 speed conversion a while back - don't recall the gearbox model #, but it's a wide ratio - not a close ratio, and it had the mech. speedo drive. It has reverse all the way to the left and up, and fifth all the way to the right and up. So, there are four positions left to right: reverse all the way left, then 1-2, then 3-4, then fifth all the way to the right. With me so far?
My problem is that the gearlever interferes with the cut-out in the console in the reverse position, making it difficult to get it all the way into reverse. I asked my mechanic if the linkage could be adjusted to shift the whole pattern rightward, and he just mumbled. It doesn't seem that a short shift would solve this, but maybe. Cutting a larger hole in the console, or somehow shifting the console leftward might be possible, but that seems sort of klugey.
My problem is that the gearlever interferes with the cut-out in the console in the reverse position, making it difficult to get it all the way into reverse. I asked my mechanic if the linkage could be adjusted to shift the whole pattern rightward, and he just mumbled. It doesn't seem that a short shift would solve this, but maybe. Cutting a larger hole in the console, or somehow shifting the console leftward might be possible, but that seems sort of klugey.
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Jay,
The short shift kit should solve this. The top of the gear shift knob will not have to move as far forward in R,1,3,5 nor rearward in 2 & 4. The short shift kit simply moves the pivot point upwards on the shifter shaft so for the same distance required to move the linkage at the bottom of the shaft, less throw is needed at the top of the shaft.
The short shift kit should solve this. The top of the gear shift knob will not have to move as far forward in R,1,3,5 nor rearward in 2 & 4. The short shift kit simply moves the pivot point upwards on the shifter shaft so for the same distance required to move the linkage at the bottom of the shaft, less throw is needed at the top of the shaft.
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Jay's interference
Jay, your trans pattern sounds like the usual Getrag 265 (overdrive) trans that is the preferred install. Just like the one I did, anyway.
The 265 shifter "platform", that is, steel frame carrier of the shift lever itself, is attached IIRC to the back of the trans at 10 and 2 o'clock by a pair of little rubber bushed aluminum blocks. Trouble (shifter looseness and vague feeling, larger pattern included) comes when the rubber in the blocks starts to disintegrate from heat.
The back of the platform is secured to the top of the tunnel by a little rubber "spool" having 6mm studs at each end. These are typically used to secure the AFM on later cars. They fail in tension, much like the left engine mount, and when they do the platform drops at the back a couple inches and may rub on the dshaft. It's still possible (just) to shift when this happens if you realize the problem and lift the lever instead of pressing down as usual while you shift.
Anyway, relative your interference issue, the condition of the rubbber in the attachment blocks at the back of the trans should be checked. Realistically, they have likely deteriorated somewhat; they are not expensive and should be readily available at the dealer or maybe the aftermarket.
But you're right: the five speed pattern seems broader than the four-speed pattern, and a snug fit in a console meant for a four-speed. I have not compared the console opening between four and five speed versions (duh) because there is no E9 stock five speed console to compare it to. But my install fit with a four speed console...
Jay, your trans pattern sounds like the usual Getrag 265 (overdrive) trans that is the preferred install. Just like the one I did, anyway.
The 265 shifter "platform", that is, steel frame carrier of the shift lever itself, is attached IIRC to the back of the trans at 10 and 2 o'clock by a pair of little rubber bushed aluminum blocks. Trouble (shifter looseness and vague feeling, larger pattern included) comes when the rubber in the blocks starts to disintegrate from heat.
The back of the platform is secured to the top of the tunnel by a little rubber "spool" having 6mm studs at each end. These are typically used to secure the AFM on later cars. They fail in tension, much like the left engine mount, and when they do the platform drops at the back a couple inches and may rub on the dshaft. It's still possible (just) to shift when this happens if you realize the problem and lift the lever instead of pressing down as usual while you shift.
Anyway, relative your interference issue, the condition of the rubbber in the attachment blocks at the back of the trans should be checked. Realistically, they have likely deteriorated somewhat; they are not expensive and should be readily available at the dealer or maybe the aftermarket.
But you're right: the five speed pattern seems broader than the four-speed pattern, and a snug fit in a console meant for a four-speed. I have not compared the console opening between four and five speed versions (duh) because there is no E9 stock five speed console to compare it to. But my install fit with a four speed console...
MMercury
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I am pretty sure Honolulu is referring to No 17 below. I believe there are even replacements that use urethane rather than rubber too.
To add to Honolulu's thoughts, any sloppiness in the shifter apparatus can result in problems. This includes even loose fasteners, let alone worn or decomposing parts.
You should be able to detect the sloppiness from inside the cabin by uncovering the shift ball and pulling up on the entire shift rod. It is probably better to just get under the car and move things around - just like watching for worn steering parts as the steering wheel is turned.
jmackro
Well-Known Member
Sven: OK, I see your point. Reducing fore-aft shifter movement wouldn't help, since the interference comes in the left-right direction. But, I guess by moving the pivot point higher, the short shifters reduce motion in both directions, and as such would reduce the distance the lever needs to move to the left when going into reverse.
Mmercury and Honolulu: Sounds like I need to spend some quality time underneath my coupe. Thanks for the leads on what to look for. I'd like to just shift the whole mechanism rightward, as I seem to have sufficient clearance when in 5th.
Part #17 looks like this thing, sold on ebay for $10 at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5190ee2390 Seems like a cheap fix!
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bengal taiga
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Since no one else appears to have posted this yet, here is a link to more exposition on the topic. Its been around for quite a while, so it may be buried somewhere on this forum. Happy confusion! :wink:
http://www.mz3.net/articles/143.html
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
My main issue with any of the more modern BMW shifters is how they degrade pretty quickly. The 320i shifter could be pretty tricky to find, as E21s aren't exactly all that plentiful anymore.
Jay,
Here is picture of the shifter support. I am just thinking out loud here - assuming your mounting parts are in ok condition. What if you put a washer between the driver's side aluminum mounting part and the transmission. This would rotate the shifter socket to the right which should move R away from the console. This may affect clearances to the guibo and shifting angles in the other gears?? Or, put a washer behind both mounts thereby shifting the pivot point farther back and hence all knob positions rearwards, away from the console. 1/8" washers? There might be enough play in the rear vertical mount - the rubber "spool" described in previous posts. The attached photo shows a different rear support method I am using.
Here is picture of the shifter support. I am just thinking out loud here - assuming your mounting parts are in ok condition. What if you put a washer between the driver's side aluminum mounting part and the transmission. This would rotate the shifter socket to the right which should move R away from the console. This may affect clearances to the guibo and shifting angles in the other gears?? Or, put a washer behind both mounts thereby shifting the pivot point farther back and hence all knob positions rearwards, away from the console. 1/8" washers? There might be enough play in the rear vertical mount - the rubber "spool" described in previous posts. The attached photo shows a different rear support method I am using.
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Short Shift
I used the lower part of a very late 2002 stick, probably the most affordable way. The plastic bush needed opening with a drill, but that was no problem. It reduced shift movement by about a third, but it made the change so much more stiffer and notchy that I went back to the standard shift.
I used the lower part of a very late 2002 stick, probably the most affordable way. The plastic bush needed opening with a drill, but that was no problem. It reduced shift movement by about a third, but it made the change so much more stiffer and notchy that I went back to the standard shift.
pmansson
Well-Known Member
Position/height of the knob
I would like the short shift action but with a longer lever than stock....
I find that the knob is too far down when the (right) hand´s normal position is at 3 o´clock on the steering wheel.
Which lever should I use, or time perhaps for some custom work?
(The Ferrari 250 GTO has the knob more or less at the same height as the right hand at 3 o´clock on the wheel. Very good for quick work and cool as well. Don´t envisage going that far on the coupe!)
I would like the short shift action but with a longer lever than stock....
I find that the knob is too far down when the (right) hand´s normal position is at 3 o´clock on the steering wheel.
Which lever should I use, or time perhaps for some custom work?
(The Ferrari 250 GTO has the knob more or less at the same height as the right hand at 3 o´clock on the wheel. Very good for quick work and cool as well. Don´t envisage going that far on the coupe!)