ignition key

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Gor

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Hey guys...I'm temporarily back from my travels abroad, and wanted to update you on the the ignition key saga...
I found a lock code on the ignition barrel, but after making extensive inquiries, discovered that somehow it was not correct for the coupe. No worries, I took the barrel to a locksmith who fabricated a new key. This new key operates the ignition switch and locks/unlocks the drivers door, but not the passenger door or the boot. Opening/unlocking the boot is now a problem, and it seems I may have to try and drill through the lock barrel, hoping to gain access without causing too much damage, unless anyone reading this has a better solution.
However, whilst the key was being made,(it took a week or so), I decided to try and start the engine, by means of screwdriver in back of ignition switch. Having pumped up 4 flat tyres and freed up the brakes, it was now time to do a little work on the engine. Having spoken to a mechanic, I removed the spark plugs and poured a little oil down the holes to help lubricate the barrels. I slowly hand cranked the engine, and it wasn't seized!
I installed new plugs, cleaned the inside of distributor cap, and changed points and rotor arm. I cleaned the fuel filter and made a temporary petrol tank. I then charged an old battery and connected it up.
I got inside and turned the ignition on, a few turns and the engine started to fire. Wow... what a noise... and so much smoke from the exhaust!!! But at least she was running...
Selecting "A" in the auto gearbox made a clunk, and on pressing the accelerator she started moving forward. Unfortunately the linkage to the carbs was now stuck... the engine wouldn't stop revving, and the vehicle began to move faster, I had no brakes at all, since I had just sprayed them with WD40. I frantically searched for the screwdriver, grabbing it just as it was falling through the rusty hole in the floor pan, and so manged to turn the ignition off. Fortunately she rolled to a halt before any nasty accident occurred.
...more next time, if you're interested.

Gor
 
Wow Gor,
That is another incredible story. I would like to suggest you fasten a GoPro camera or similar in your garage, perhaps have it live 24/7. These exploits of yours are entertaining to say the least! Such events happen to us all, but as I read your descriptions I feel I can see the next step coming and only a video could improve these stories. Let us know when you go live! Best of luck in your restoration, happy you could save that one.
Mike
 
Hey Gazz and Mike

Thanks for those replies... I was panicking, which is unusual for me... The whole episode happened in just a matter of seconds.
I was gripping the hand brake and pulling up with all my might, with my left hand, (next to the gear selector), whilst fumbling for the screwdriver to turn off the ignition at the switch, with my right hand. Eyes down and no steering!! Once I realized that the throttle levers had seized, (since releasing foot pressure on the accelerator pedal made no difference to the revs, and pushing hard on the brake pedal made no difference to the increasing speed) my only thought was about turning the engine off before the revs went off the counter. There were also big holes in the exhaust system, which made a terrific noise as the revs increased.
Just as the engine stopped, an elderly lady, a neighbour, came rushing out of her house to see the commotion..."Gor" she exclaimed, "it sounds like a racing car!" ... "But it is a racing car" I replied.
With hindsight perhaps I should have just 'knocked it into neutral', and I like to think that would have been my next move, had I not managed to grab the screwdriver as it rolled toward the hole in the floor...

Kind regards

Gor
 
I had rented a car and actually dropped the keys in Lake Michigan.....anyway the new key started the car and opened the pass door only. It turns out the car had been stolen in the past and Hertz replaced the ignition cylinder and one door lock only....this a possibility with you?

Also re-keying the door locks is a tedious task but actually fun and not that hard....

I think a fun thread would be the short stories each of us has about hair-raising experiences working on our cars. I know I have at least one.
 
Hi Gor, I lost my keys last year and managed to get a couple from a guy on ebay called keys4classics, he's based in Australia. He said he always uses the code from the glove box and has never had any complaints. It worked for me, the new keys work perfectly in all locks. I think it was about £50, he was extremely helpful.
 
Bavbob and Damienh

Hey guys,
Thanks for that...Bavbob, you could well be right about that. Perhaps this car has once in the past been stolen, and then only had the ignition and one lock replaced by the owner. Certainly is a possibility. But I am now intrigued to know of your funny/hair-raising coupe episode.
Damienh, yes... I spoke to Stuart from 'keys for classics' (he was very helpful) sometime last year, regarding new dimple keys for this vehicle, and sent him a key code that BMW had given me, from the vin number. In his reply he informed me this code must be wrong, because it belonged to another vehicle from 1984 era. So where in the glove box will I find the code you mention? Then I can check that against the BMW code and see if they match!
Kind regards
Gor.....PS... I think these posts should be moved to General Discussion, but don't know how to do that
 
Unless the vinyl covered trim has been removed, you won't be able to access the "trigger" from inside the trunk or the emblem holes. You CAN gain access to the trigger arm area by removing the center bolt that holds the rear plate trim although you'd probably have to grind it out due to it's carriage bolt style construction and likelihood of the nut just spinning if you could turn it

The trigger arm is shown with its bottom edge just at the equator of the key barrel. And that edge is about 4.25" from the center of the trim bolt.

Looks like a lot more work than just ordering from the glove box code.

Have fun!

Edit- Sorry....I should have listed this to your other post regarding the trunk lock-out
 

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Thanks Chris,
For your input...and I would gladly take you up on that advice, however, as often seems to be the case with me just lately, it's not quite that simple. My 1970 UK version 2800 csa has no lock on the glove compartment. Just a simple push button mechanism.
I'm no expert on these coupes, but perhaps BMW took extra security measures with the USA version, knowing of all the car crime, auto thieves and flippers in America...only joking, they perceived the Limeys had nothing of value to keep in that compartment, and so decided to leave it vulnerable!
Kind regards
Gor
 
So I ended up having a locksmith come on-site and he put a blank in the trunk, tapped it, then removed it and notched where there were scratches on the blank. I remember since it took 3 min to cut a key the trunk of this rental car and 20 min to get over what he charged.....which I handed over to Hertz.
 
Ed G and bavbob...
Thanks for your latest posts.
Ed, your advice on this matter has saved me endless hours of fruitless poking and probing, and the photo really helped me to understand the mechanism better.
You were right about the nut on rear plate spinning, and it would be difficult to grind that off without damaging the surrounding chrome plate.
Theoretically, if it was possible from inside the trunk, to cut a 2" hole through the vinyl with hole saw cutter, opposite to the key lock barrel, might I then be able to access the trigger, or would this also be deemed destructive?
bavbob, I am beginning to wish I had just rented the vehicle from Hertz, it would have made things so much easier! Still waiting to hear of your funny/hair-raising experience.
Kind regards
Gor
 
There's got to be a creative solution Gor.

Assuming the code on one of the door locks is no use, you can probably research this, I know there was a discussion somewhere on the site about "valet keys" which only open certain locks on the car, but not all. Never quite understood it, but I assume it means that not all locks should have the same code by design, some will have additional dimples.

My car is also a UK car, perhaps you have no glovebox lock as it's an early model, who knows. I've had my petrol tank out recently and done some work in the boot (trunk), so from memory - you could possibly get an arm, or even a coat hanger in through the petrol cap rubber seal by carefully pushing it away from the car body ? (don't rip it because they are no longer available !) Then push the rubber filler hose to one side - or even remove the whole filler hose if you can get to the jubilee clip and loosen it with a screwdriver, I think that should be possible. Best not to do this with a lit cigarette in your mouth.

Something will probably need to be sacrificed to get to the mechanism somehow, and if you took this route you will probably need to go through the vinyl trim which covers the lock, but if it's in the same poor condition as mine is it will need replacing anyway. That's if the trim panel is even intact, it may not be.

Another creative solution would be to feed an endoscope type camera in attached to a coat hanger, or sellotaped to a brush handle. You can get one with a light on the end, and try to get the code from the lock.

Last resort would be drilling a large hole behind the registration plate that could be welded back in after.

This is all assuming you don't have a fist size hole already in your boot / truck floor ! it's not uncommon.
 
Good point, are you sure he didn't inadvertandly make you a valet key? This would only operate the igniton and not the trunk. The orignal ignition keys had rubber grips, the valet keys were all metal.

Post a pic of your key, the 2 dimple patterns are different and we may be able to tell.


damienh said:
There's got to be a creative solution Gor.

Assuming the code on one of the door locks is no use, you can probably research this, I know there was a discussion somewhere on the site about "valet keys" which only open certain locks on the car, but not all. Never quite understood it, but I assume it means that not all locks should have the same code by design, some will have additional dimples.
Click to expand...
 
If someone has the locks out of the car at the moment they could do Gor a favour and compare the code on the passenger's door lock barrel, to the one on the glovebox lock as we know this code is good for all locks. If they match, I bet the door lock code would work. Assuming everything apart from the ignition is original of course. I suggest the passenger's lock, as it's unlikely if the car was stolen in the past it's less likely the passenger's lock was damaged ?
 
My Mistake...

Originally Posted by Gor
Sorry Guys... It's my own fault!!!

Thanks to all for your comments

Unfortunately, I made the mistake of posting this thread (IGNITION KEY) in Projects and Restorations, when it should have been posted to General Discussions.
On discovering my mistake, I posted a new thread, in General Discussions, titled; (HOW DO I MOVE MY POST?).
General Discussions thus became the correct forum to continue this thread!
So some your ideas, but not all, have previously been posted there, by other forum members.
I have already made some progress...and more dilemmas!
Damianh and Stevehose...I will be replying to your latest suggestions there.
....My apologies for causing this inconvenience.
Kind regards

Gor


NO FURTHER REPLIES ON THIS FORUM...PLEASE CHECK THE GENERAL DISCUSSION FORUM INSTEAD... if your interested....
 
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