Ignition Switch

[grnder95]

Hello everyone,

This is Victor from Houston, about three weeks ago I drove my 3.0cs, but I had problems with the switch. I had to wiggle it a little for the key to turn. Last week, I tried again and the switch was locked. I was trying to remove it and I accidentally bumped the wires behind the switch. I called Carl Nelson to ask if he could take a look at the switch, and he said that I needed a new one. I refuse to believe that since I just ordered a new key for this specific switch. I need some help from you guys to find a place where they can try to fix it. Here are some pictures of the switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[61porsche]

Perhaps this helps....

http://www.delockandkey.com/bmwdippage.htm

Since I think you're describing a lock that won't turn.. it is perhaps dirty. Carb cleaner, something without much residue.

 

[grnder95]

http://www.delockandkey.com/bmwdippage.htm

Since I think you're describing a lock that won't turn.. it is perhaps dirty. Carb cleaner, something without much residue.

I'll try that, what about the bakelite can that be put back together? Thanks

 

[lloyd]

With apologies, I can't see much of your fourth image - which gives me pause regarding your bakelite question.

First, it is not that uncommon for the rear most portion of the switch (the part where the wires are soldered) to become loose. Per the picture of the dark grease, the perimeter of the cylinder has some "indents", this is where the rear portion of the switch is "crimped" in place. Returning to your fourth image, it is hard to determine whether the small bits are copper contacts or broken bakelite. If it is the former, they fit into place and are part of the switch assembly. If the bakelite is in pieces - it is, for all practical concerns, kaput. One supposes it could be reassembled with epoxy, but with questionable durability.


http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17828
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2866




I believe this image is missing some springs, but it may be helpful to visualize your situation.

 

[sfdon]

Thank you Lloyd- that was helpful and clear!

 

[grnder95]

With apologies, I can't see much of your fourth image - which gives me pause regarding your bakelite question.

First, it is not that uncommon for the rear most portion of the switch (the part where the wires are soldered) to become loose. Per the picture of the dark grease, the perimeter of the cylinder has some "indents", this is where the rear portion of the switch is "crimped" in place. Returning to your fourth image, it is hard to determine whether the small bits are copper contacts or broken bakelite. If it is the former, they fit into place and are part of the switch assembly. If the bakelite is in pieces - it is, for all practical concerns, kaput. One supposes it could be reassembled with epoxy, but with questionable durability.


http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17828
http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2866




I believe this image is missing some springs, but it may be helpful to visualize your situation.

Hello Lloyd, thanks for the info.the small bits are actually copper contacts, I was wondering if you know anybody that restores this switches Regards Victor

 

[sfdon]

I do restore those-

Cost is $180 including shipping.
If it's not reparable I can provide a new one at cost plus 20%.
Let me know!

 

[grnder95]

Cost is $180 including shipping.
If it's not reparable I can provide a new one at cost plus 20%.
Let me know!

pm sent

 

[grnder95]

http://www.delockandkey.com/bmwdippage.htm

Since I think you're describing a lock that won't turn.. it is perhaps dirty. Carb cleaner, something without much residue.

pm sent Thank you

 

[sfdon]

Hi Victor- after scouring my shop for my repair kit, I concede I cannot locate it.
Terribly sorry!
My suggestion is to purchase a new electrical switch.
Carl Nelson has them in stock I believe.

 

[MyFemurHurts]

This is actually a pretty good update to do before it becomes an issue. It's not too expensive, as depending on your roadside assistance is less than a tow. At least with most things on the car, it dies a slow death before its strands you. This one is an immediate show stopper, and losing power at night in the left lane of a congested freeway isn't fun (ask me how I know).

 

[grnder95]

This is actually a pretty good update to do before it becomes an issue. It's not too expensive, as depending on your roadside assistance is less than a tow. At least with most things on the car, it dies a slow death before its strands you. This one is an immediate show stopper, and losing power at night in the left lane of a congested freeway isn't fun (ask me how I know).

Hello Brendan,thanks for the info.I'm trying to understand how the ignition switch works, so it's made of two parts the lock which is where the wires are attached to and the actual ignition switch is where the key goes into correct? so if I buy the lock I can still use the same key? BTW I like the sahara color, my car's original color is Chamonix and I was thinking on doing color change to sahara, do you mind sharing some pictures Regards Victor

 

[MyFemurHurts]

It's been a few years since I did my switch, but I was able to reuse the same lock and key set. It's the part that moves below the lock that ends up not making contact, and then you're stranded on the side of the road.

Per Sahara, it's not my favorite, but I've learned to enjoy it. If/when I repaint it, I'll paint it Malaga.

 

[grnder95]

It's been a few years since I did my switch, but I was able to reuse the same lock and key set. It's the part that moves below the lock that ends up not making contact, and then you're stranded on the side of the road.

Per Sahara, it's not my favorite, but I've learned to enjoy it. If/when I repaint it, I'll paint it Malaga.

HI Brendan,that is a beautiful car, thanks for sharing. regards Victor