Interior Heat

iconoclast6

iconoclast6

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Hi Folks,

Getting accustomed to the new coupe arrival. Have only logged approx.
10 hours while dodging the rain but notice the heat emanating from the shift area...reminicent of my '02...but more intense.

Seem to remember Murray talking about some kind of shield fitting above the exhaust to diminish the heat...

Any recollection or thoughts...

Thanks,

Chuck
 
Yeah, mine gets really toasty too. It used to be far worse because the PO fitted it with a metal shift knob. Had to wear gloves just to shift.
 
I think it is just "one of those things" about having an E9. However that said between the gear lever and the body should be a foam pad, ie under the tunnel as well as a none split gater which should help to keep the heat down.

Or just drive faster :wink:
Malc
 
I always had high heat from the tranny tunnel and then I insulated under the carpet and I get virtually no heat. I used the dynamat with the lead layer sandwiched between foam. Worked great for heat and sound. The regular dynamat with foil and gu transmitted heat so I went with a layer of the extreme over (i think that is what it is called) but it has a foam both sides. Worked great and was easy to bend over the tunnel.

http://audio-etcetera.com/product_i...08007?osCsid=70291f6a68964f93d22c38925afb63ef

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One more view for you to check out. Notice the silver backed "silver with gu" dynamat liner applied first then the thicker dynamat extreme with foam and lead sheet over for added sound and heat proofing plus it added a little padding for tactile enjoyment.

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same situation

I was hoping to find a solution that would go between the exhaust and the sheetmetal as the heat causes the undercoating to bake off. That leads to more rust than necessary. Apparently BMW makes a heat shielding cloth for its motorcycles that might be appropriate but I have not gone further with it. Has anyone else?
 
The exhaust on TBL is routed in such a way so that it runs right under the center shaft bearing which caused some unpleasantries in that area. I fashioned (I'd like to say fabricated, but it ain't that pretty) a thin steel shield with tabs so it would mount on the bearing bolts and pop rivited some heat shield material on it and have no problems since. Can send pix in a few days if you'd like.
 
Hot stuff in center console--rough in Summer--cozy in Winter

Welcome to Coupe ownership and the realities of being in close contact with such a beauty--she/he/it gets HOT when working!! The foam in the shifter area beneath the shift boot does abates sound but not heat and heat soak in the shifter will occur from the transmission on long runs

I had recently considered fabricating and installing a heat shield under the transmission but that sets the stage for rattles from clearance issues and other needless complications of access when other services are needed.

I like Tony's idea of wrapping the exhaust pipes as it may be the simplest and most cost effective solution to deal with the primary source of heat build-up--coming from the pair of exhaust pipes running just beneath the passengers feet and alongside the center console. Also a solution much easier, less time consuming and far less expensive than pulling back carpet and center console to install dynamat or similar material.

Several years ago I had used a lighter and simpler material when dealing with sound abatement in the BLUMAX and my 2002--had used a closed cell foam material used in aircraft for carpet underlay and sound deadening--very light and has worked great for sound reduction--not much heat reduction--my supply came from Mesa Performance but they haven't had any more of that material for years.

For the record--I am going to wrap the pipes--thanks for the suggestion Tony
 
Thanks one and all. Suggestions now under advisement.

Will appreciate, Phillip, pics of your heat shield fabrication if possible...

Tony, any particular/special type of header wrap....

Thanks,

Chuck
 
One other thing you might want to consider is the coupe's heater configuration. Unlike many other cars, hot water flows continuously through the heater core of the e3/e9 heater box, even when you have the heat turned to the cool setting on the control panel. So, unfortunately, you always have a heat source inside the cabin. This can be confounded by the tendency of the M30 to run hot during summer running. While vigorous application of insulation will help keep engine heat out of the cabin, it will likewise keep heaterbox heat inside the cabin. I have been thinking about putting a 3-way solenoid valve in the heater line, on the engine side of the firewall. This would allow bypassing of the heater core, when you don't want heat, while maintaining coolant circulation to the back of the head.
 
vraned said:
I have been thinking about putting a 3-way solenoid valve in the heater line, on the engine side of the firewall. This would allow bypassing of the heater core, when you don't want heat, while maintaining coolant circulation to the back of the head.
Click to expand...

Is this a good idea? Since the coolant has less exposure to the "outside" wouldn't it run hotter? Doesn't it need to exchange that heat somewhere?
 
Before I got the right size radiator, I had to run the heater to keep my V8 510 cool (i know...i was young.) Anyway, the engineers at BMW probably wouldn't make the same mistake. Nonetheless, I agree that the flow through the back of the head is probably necessary to prevent a localized hot spot. This is why I would use a 3-way valve, instead of a 2-way valve. Doesn't the e24 use a 3-way for this purpose?
 
My "flying brick" aka 1986 E28 M535 uses an electric solenoid style of valve for cutting off the water to the heater matrix when the none functioning AC is used :roll:
That should work to stop the flow to the heater matix which is very much like an E9
Malc
 
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