Interior Question #1

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bavbob

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I will beg the forum to tolerate all my questions concerning the interior resto of my E9. My questions will come only if I cannot find an answer after a thorough search. I have done almost all the mechanical resto and had learned from doing similar on my E3 resto but the E3 interior was almost pristine and is also way more simple than E9.

Question 1) Reattaching the foam mold of interior dash bits like glovebox door, fusebox door to the metal backing. I have tried gentle heat, clamping for a week with gentle heat. Have read about using 3m strip caulk which seemed to last a while but eventually fails. Nest stop? JB Weld for example? Thanks in advance.
 
I also am seeing separation of the foam backed cover from the hard backing on my glove box. So I’m also interested in the solution.

My concern is whether or not the foam backing has enough strength to resist the force of the shrinking vinyl skin. I was think of using West System epoxy because I know it’ll ooze it’s way into the books and crannies, and cute to high strength. I use this to make and repair fiberglass body parts and it’s very good for that application. But if someone else knows of a broken solution it would help us all avoid repeating past mistakes

I’m sure these could be redone in black leather for a luxurious upgrade but I’d like to stay original if possible
 
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deQ, take a peek at "Liquid Nails" sold here in the U.S. Wondering if it is equivalent to Impact Glue.
 
I don’t have faith in contact type glues because they tend to have significant creep. But maybe newer formulations are much better than 3m 77
 
bavbob said:
deQ, take a peek at "Liquid Nails" sold here in the U.S. Wondering if it is equivalent to Impact Glue.
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I think DQ is referring to contact adhesive also known as contact cement.

3M-Hi-Strength-Spray-Adhesive-90-INVERTED-1000px.jpg
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I used 3M 90 on the elephant skin...worked great but will not stand up to this job, at least mine since the separation is about an 3cm in some areas.
 
bfeng said:
I was think of using West System epoxy because I know it’ll ooze it’s way into the nooks and crannies, and cure to high strength.
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I haven't done this on the e9 yet, but I used West Systems epoxy on my M3 glove compartment door in the same manner. It has held up perfectly for 7 years. I made a caul that fit the geometry of the textured vinyl cover perfectly, and clamped it up for a couple of days to make sure everything was set up before removing clamp pressure.
 
Gorilla glue worked for me after trying many different others adhesives that all eventually failed. The one that sort of turns into an expanding foam.
 
DWMBMW said:
Gorilla glue worked for me after trying many different others adhesives that all eventually failed. The one that sort of turns into an expanding foam.
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+1 on Gorilla glue, easy to use, for example with a tooth pic one can get it in an edge that is lifting from the base, when dry a razor will cut off any extra. 5 years and counting for me, used on glove box, panel under steering wheel, shifter box edges, etc. Used binder clips to hold in place while drying.
 
Will post photos. Some of my separation is an inch or so, so a long way. I actually heated the part to 150 F, then clamped it and heated again for 20 min. I got the inch down to a 1/2 inch. The tension is still significant. I use gorilla glue all the time, mostly for loose furniture joints. The expansion is what worries me.
 
I used liquid nails and clamps, no expansion and it has held up for a couple years now.
 
bavbob said:
deQ, take a peek at "Liquid Nails" sold here in the U.S. Wondering if it is equivalent to Impact Glue.
Click to expand...

can not say if that one is an impact glue
impact glue is that sort of glue it has solvent and you put it in both elements that you want to join
you wait until solvent is gone and you join both
 
Here is one part in question, under steering column
 

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deQuincey said:
can not say if that one is an impact glue
impact glue is that sort of glue it has solvent and you put it in both elements that you want to join
you wait until solvent is gone and you join both
Click to expand...
That is what is Americans call contact cement because it bonds on contact. It is used extensively on auto interior restorations. I would not trust it for a joint that is under constant shear or normal load without any mechanical ‘help’ . On the rear seat, the leather is wrapped around the edge of the shell, and the edge of the shell resists shear and eliminated normal pulling forces. The force of a delaminates glove box cover is all normal, so I think you need a strong and stiff glue.

Glad to success with more than one glue. Gorilla is much cheaper and also easier to clean up than epoxy.
 
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