Is it possible to repair bumper overrider rubber studs?

[Bmachine]

I have a couple of the rubber pieces for the front bumper overriders that had nuts so rusted that they sheared off immediately when I tried to remove them. This is after have soaked in WD40 for a week. Is there any way to repair those? They seem to be molded in the rubber and I have a hard time imagining how to save them... :-(

 

[HB Chris]

Some just screw a sheet metal screw into them from the backside.

 

[Bmachine]

Very interesting.

Thanks Chris!

 

[adawil2002]

Problem with the studs is they are a "T" bolt molded into the rubber. I've had them twist in the rubber because they are so rusted to the nut. I just bought new rubber instead of fighting with it.

 

[aearch]

Repair

My rear inserts for the usa bumbers had the same problem
what to do is dig them out and add new bolts with jB weld quick
works fine

 

[Bmachine]

Problem with the studs is they are a "T" bolt molded into the rubber. I've had them twist in the rubber because they are so rusted to the nut. I just bought new rubber instead of fighting with it.

Makes sense. Except for the cost of that new rubber part...

 

[Bmachine]

My rear inserts for the usa bumbers had the same problem
what to do is dig them out and add new bolts with jB weld quick
works fine

Hmmm, interesting idea!. But if using a cold welding method like JBWeld, why dig the whole T-bolt part out? Would it not work by cutting the rusted bolt as close to the T base as possible and then "welding" a new bolt to that? (Disclaimer: I have not used JBWeld before so I may not fully understand how t works - I am assuming it is similar to 2 part expoxy... Wrong?)

 

[HB Chris]

JBWeld isn't going to work on underrider rubber covers and I don't know what part Alan is talking about, he has no underriders.

 

[jmackro]

I have not used JBWeld before - I am assuming it is similar to 2 part expoxy..

Yes, it is essentially 2 part epoxy mixed with steel filings or some other black gritty material. Works OK for repairing cracked or chipped castings, in that you can machine it once it hardens and it is oil resistant (though not resistant to high temperatures). I think of it as more of a structural filler than an adhesive.

 

[Bmachine]

Yes, it is essentially 2 part epoxy mixed with steel filings or some other black gritty material. Works OK for repairing cracked or chipped castings, in that you can machine it once it hardens and it is oil resistant (though not resistant to high temperatures). I think of it as more of a structural filler than an adhesive.

Thanks Jay. That confirms what I thought. I have a hard time imagining "gluing" two half threaded studs together and achieving much structural integrity with it. Although in this case there is clearly not going to be many stresses pulling the rubber part from the steel overrides.

Maybe if I can drill a small hole in the remaining part of the bolt and a corresponding one in a new upper half and then inserting a small stud to act as a brace holding them together to assist the epoxy.... Kind of like a mini rebar.

 

[oldcoupe]

I cut off the rusted studs, drilled into the metal left in the rubber, tapped a thread and screwed in a new stud. Think I left plenty of grease on the hidden metal to try to postpone the next rust.

W&N do sets of all the nuts, bolts, washers for front and rear bumpers and they weren't expensive. It was so much better having new, clean, correct parts than trying to reuse the mismatched rubbish that previous "panel shops" and "mechanics" had used.

 

[Bmachine]

Brilliant! That's exactly what I was thinking. Real glad to hear someone actually did it.

Thanks oldCoupe. I will try that.

Bo

 

[oldcoupe]

Thanks Bmachine - hope it works out.

If you're working on your own, or even with help, that rear bumper is very awkward to manage. I put long studs into the back mounting holes for support as I moved it into place, having wrapped the sides in heavy cloth and supported them on axle stands so everything was under control and I didn't scratch the new paint. The side bolt holes took a bit of time to line up. I also put a thin rubber spacing between the bumper and the panels at each bolt point to avoid any point contact with metal and the paintwork, and perhaps keep water at bay. Took me a long time to get the overrider bolts to match the panel and I had to open one hole to get things to fit.