Items to replace for a stored car

Boobouna

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Hi all,

My car is at the mechanics getting a whole bunch of things replaced to get it back on the road. I want to make sure I haven't missed anything so was hoping the experts here can let me know common problems with e9's that have been sitting in storage and not driven for a long time. I have bought maintenance kits from W&N as well as seperate other items including all bushes, water pump, thermostat, hoses etc. I have rebuilt the engine and am buying a gasket kit for the carbs. Had the steering box and brake boosters fully overhauled, radiator recored, new viscous fan clutch and fan upgrade, new draglink. Can't remember what else too much to list. I do know I didn't touch the ignition coil, or sure if thats worth replacing, no issues with it. Is there something simple I'm missing? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks guys.


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If the service kit from W&N has the Bosch plugs then suggest you ditch them and replace with NGK ( as recommended by many here on Forum ). In my case , the Bosch plugs fouled very quickly.
 
If the service kit from W&N has the Bosch plugs then suggest you ditch them and replace with NGK ( as recommended by many here on Forum ). In my case , the Bosch plugs fouled very quickly.

Ok thanks that's good to know.


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How long was the car stored?

Recommend cleaning the entire fuel system including the tank and replacing all fuel lines.
Look into replacing your distributor with a 123 ignition.
 
How long was the car stored?

Recommend cleaning the entire fuel system including the tank and replacing all fuel lines.
Look into replacing your distributor with a 123 ignition.

It has only done a few hundred miles in the last 6 years. I have replaced the distributor cap and rotor arm but have not thought of upgrading the ignition. I'm trying to keep the car as original as I can. Fuel lines are being replaced but I haven't cleaned the fuel tank yet. I'll take a look at that thanks.


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Ignition components don't really degrade with time; your points, coil, wires, plugs should be OK after a long sleep. On the other hand, they're cheap to replace and if their history is unknown, replacing them is cheap insurance.

Rubber parts DO degrade with time due to exposure to the ozone in the atmosphere. Things like your driveshaft flex joint, flexible brake lines, flex clutch line, seals in the brake calipers and MC, ..... Similarly, the gasoline, coolant, oil, and brake fluid need to be flushed. Cleaning the fuel tank is a good idea. In general, if it's rubber or liquid, replace it. If it's metal, it's probably OK (or at least no worse than it was when the car went into storage).

I have rebuilt the engine and am buying a gasket kit for the carbs.

That sentence didn't fully compute; can you clarify? Did you mean "rebuilt" as in new rings, bearings, valve seals, ..... ?
 
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Ignition components don't really degrade with time; your points, coil, wires, plugs should be OK after a long sleep. On the other hand, they're cheap to replace and if their history is unknown, replacing them is cheap insurance.

Rubber parts DO degrade with time due to exposure to the ozone in the atmosphere. Things like your driveshaft flex joint, flexible brake lines, flex clutch line, seals in the brake calipers and MC, ..... Similarly, the gasoline, coolant, oil, and brake fluid need to be flushed. Cleaning the fuel tank is a good idea. In general, if it's rubber or liquid, replace it. If it's metal, it's probably OK (or at least no worse than it was when the car went into storage).



That sentence didn't fully compute; can you clarify? Did you mean "rebuilt" as in new rings, bearings, valve seals, ..... ?

Yeah thanks, I didn't touch the calipers yet but checking the seals on them sounds like a smart thing.
Yes rings, bearings, valve seals etc all done in the engine rebuild. Main reason the car is still there since I dropped it off in December!!!!


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Probably NOT necessary, but I would also replace the transmission and differential lubricant. Brake/clutch fluid should be purged and replaced. Might want to check front axle bearings for dried grease. IF it was stored in a humid environment (don't know how close to the sea it was stored), I'd check a lot of the electrical connections, especially all the grounds. Look at the thread about electrical connections that is currently being discussed on this forum for ideas.

Then - and this is mandatory - enjoy driving it!

Gary
 
Yeah thanks, I didn't touch the calipers yet but checking the seals on them sounds like a smart thing.

As Gary Knox wrote, a lot depends on how much humidity the car was exposed to while in storage. Brake pistons can develop corrosion while in storage (that corrosion gets burnished off when they are used regularly). So after a long period of dis-use, the calipers can stick; this problem is less due to rubber degrading, and more due to corrosion. Disassembling and cleaning the calipers is the fix. And of course, while you're in there, you'd replace the square O rings.

If your brakes are working OK, this may be unnecessary. But then too, brakes are sort of important.
 
Brakes, brakes, brakes. Anything else may present a problem but not likely life threatening.

Change brake fluid. If stored for a long time would rebuild master cylinder. Go through calipers. Replace brake lines.

Otherwise? Change the oil / filter. Flush the radiator and new fluids. Trans / diff? At least make sure they are topped up. Changing would be better.

Drain gas tank. Maybe flush but I would probably just refill for now and add Techron or similar and see how it goes.

Ignition. Replace plugs points condenser. Time the car. Nothing else. Again, see how it goes.

The rest you can evaluate as you put miles in the car.

John
 
Yes, John hit on the first thing I would have said. Brakes, Brakes, Brakes. Make sure to replace the rubber brake lines; they deteriorate with age and can create rather substantial problems if they fail.
 
Probably NOT necessary, but I would also replace the transmission and differential lubricant. Brake/clutch fluid should be purged and replaced. Might want to check front axle bearings for dried grease. IF it was stored in a humid environment (don't know how close to the sea it was stored), I'd check a lot of the electrical connections, especially all the grounds. Look at the thread about electrical connections that is currently being discussed on this forum for ideas.

Then - and this is mandatory - enjoy driving it!

Gary

Yes all fluids are being replaced. Will mention to the workshop about electrical connections and front axle bearings.


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Brakes, brakes, brakes. Anything else may present a problem but not likely life threatening.

Change brake fluid. If stored for a long time would rebuild master cylinder. Go through calipers. Replace brake lines.

Otherwise? Change the oil / filter. Flush the radiator and new fluids. Trans / diff? At least make sure they are topped up. Changing would be better.

Drain gas tank. Maybe flush but I would probably just refill for now and add Techron or similar and see how it goes.

Ignition. Replace plugs points condenser. Time the car. Nothing else. Again, see how it goes.

The rest you can evaluate as you put miles in the car.

John

I might buy a master cylinder rebuild kit as a precaution, good point.


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As Gary Knox wrote, a lot depends on how much humidity the car was exposed to while in storage. Brake pistons can develop corrosion while in storage (that corrosion gets burnished off when they are used regularly). So after a long period of dis-use, the calipers can stick; this problem is less due to rubber degrading, and more due to corrosion. Disassembling and cleaning the calipers is the fix. And of course, while you're in there, you'd replace the square O rings.

If your brakes are working OK, this may be unnecessary. But then too, brakes are sort of important.

Yeah I'll definitely go through the calipers in more detail now.


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My car sat outside in Hawaii for several years, fortunately not on the wet side of the island and not near the coast but at 3000 feet elevation. The right caliper was sticking a bit when I got it running. I haven't taken it apart yet, but it seems to have loosened up after a few dozen miles. It will get a close look when the car comes apart for rust repair.

Yeah, the tires. They looked ok in the garage after getting a full pressure fill, but were only good for about 4 miles on the road before the left front developed a terminal bulge and blew out.

Ian
 
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I had a similar experience with mine which had been stored with little use for years.
Tyres.
Lube the steering UJ.
Also clutch master and slave cylinder seals, they went on my car when I used it. Really work at flushing the clutch fluid through as the pipe is horizontal (RHD) so the fluid does not drain easily. But as yours is an auto you may struggle to change the clutch fluid!!

Tool box in the boot and a charged mobile phone, sandwiches are optional, then off you go with a smile.

C
 
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