Jacking points

GTSilver944

GTSilver944

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Where are the best places to jack the car up from? I see that there are two little notches that look like the place for a jack on each side of the car - is that the right spot? Also, where is a safe place for jack stands? Frame rails? Anywhere else?
 
I just thumbed through the online handbook (http://www.cscoupe.org/tech/handbook/gallery.htm) and it didn't have a diagram for the jacking points. However, they are indeed the "notched" parts behind the front and ahead of the rear wheels. I would strongly suggest dropping the windows before attempting this operation, however, as the chassis flex is significant enough to break the windows, based on some other coupester's unfortunate experiences.

Permenant jacking points include the frame rails and the rear subframe.
 
Strongly suggest NOT using the "notches" in the rockers to jack up the car -- unless you intend to test the structural merit of the rockers. The one legged horror in the trunk should only be used for dire emergencies or show.

Use a real floor jack at the frame rail right before it turns up along the firewall for the front. At the rear, the leading end of the subframe, next to the subframe bushing, is a good spot. Some folks use the plate beneath the diff as well, but it will test the weak diff mount point at the body.
 
MichaelP said:
Strongly suggest NOT using the "notches" in the rockers to jack up the car -- unless you intend to test the structural merit of the rockers. The one legged horror in the trunk should only be used for dire emergencies or show.

Use a real floor jack at the frame rail right before it turns up along the firewall for the front. At the rear, the leading end of the subframe, next to the subframe bushing, is a good spot. Some folks use the plate beneath the diff as well, but it will test the weak diff mount point at the body.
Click to expand...

It's been ok to use the notched sections temporarily and if your rockers are in ok shape. Mine, with some rust, worked fine for many months of off-the-ground use. Everybody's car is different due to the tin worm, I suppose.
 
Thanks for the info.

Another question - The car turns over but won't start. It has a new battery and spark plugs. Appearantly it started right up six months ago. Any ideas?
 
Do you have fuel pressure?

Is it a CSI or a CS? What is the condition of the fuel filter, and how old is the gas? Old gas will start to clog things pretty bad in fairly short order.
 
It's a 1970 CS. The gas is 1-2 years old, so I guess I'll drain it out and take a look at the fuel filter. How would I check fuel pressure?

Thanks for the quick response!
 
GTSilver944 said:
It's a 1970 CS. The gas is 1-2 years old, so I guess I'll drain it out and take a look at the fuel filter. How would I check fuel pressure?

Thanks for the quick response!
Click to expand...

Ok, so you are dealing with a carbed car. The fuel pump is mechanical, and located on the cylinder head, about midway between the two Zeniths. This is all, of course, assuming you have a stock carb setup, and are using the stock fuel pump. There have been many electric pump and Weber conversions, so watch out.

The easiest way to check fuel pressure would be to look at the fuel filter, which is a tiny, clear cylinder with the filter element visible slightly upstream (figuring the tank is the source) from the fuel pump. You should be able to see the gas flowing through it.

After that, you'd have to get the input of the other carbed members of the board, as mine are long gone. (I went Motronic)

Alternatively, you can see if the accel jets are working by checking to see if you can smell gas after you pump the pedal once with the engine off, or just look at it while you pull the throttle from the engine bay.
 
If the car hasn't been started in a while, fuel can be slow to get moving. Squirt some carb cleaner/starter fluid (ether) in the top of the carbs and give it a shot. Good chance that will get the the ball rolling. Easy with the ether, though. It's hard on the rings.
 
Ok, so I replaced the fuel filter. Interestingly, the fuel lines on either side of the fuel filter were dry - and I had not even drained the old gas yet! I'll put a gallon of fresh gas in just in case it's empty and the fuel level sending unit is on the fritz. If that doesn't work, would it be safe to assume that I should replace the fuel pump?

Thanks,
Max
 
GTSilver944 said:
Ok, so I replaced the fuel filter. Interestingly, the fuel lines on either side of the fuel filter were dry - and I had not even drained the old gas yet! I'll put a gallon of fresh gas in just in case it's empty and the fuel level sending unit is on the fritz. If that doesn't work, would it be safe to assume that I should replace the fuel pump?

Thanks,
Max
Click to expand...

I'd make sure the line from the tank isn't gummed up before rebuilding the pump. The carb fuel pressure is very low (I want to say it's ~7-9psi) compared to the injected pressure (~45-55 psi) so a minor blockage can't be cleared with the carb pump.
 
I think it just took a while for the gas to reach the carbs. I added a gallon of gas, changed the fuel filter, and pressed the gas pedal over and over for a few minutes. Started on maybe the fifth try.


A few more newb questions:
What grade of oil do you guy's run? (Memphis is hot nearly year round)

Are any of the internals aluminum - should the radiator fluid be phosphate/silicate free?

I run DOT 4 brake fluid on the porsche, should I do the same on the CS even though it will never see the track like the 944?
 
GTSilver944 said:
I think it just took a while for the gas to reach the carbs. I added a gallon of gas, changed the fuel filter, and pressed the gas pedal over and over for a few minutes. Started on maybe the fifth try.


A few more newb questions:
What grade of oil do you guy's run? (Memphis is hot nearly year round)

Are any of the internals aluminum - should the radiator fluid be phosphate/silicate free?

I run DOT 4 brake fluid on the porsche, should I do the same on the CS even though it will never see the track like the 944?
Click to expand...

The original radiator is actually brass, and if you are lucky, so is the expansion tank. The thermostat housing, head, and a variety of other cooling bits are all aluminum, so yeah, gotta watch what kind of coolant you use.

I've got ATE super blue in my coupe currently. Works quite well, although the brakes are nearly binary in operation. It goes from "completely off" to "at least I know the seat belts work" in about 2 degrees of foot angle. I'd strongly suggest some braided steel brake lines. The stock brake setup will stop the car well past the limits of the stock tires.
 
Nice one...! Gotta love the M30.

The clutch slave and master can both be rebuilt inexpensively, though the master is a beeotch to get out and back in yourself. After you troubleshoot and find out what you have there, and if you're planning keep/drive the car, you probably want to think about rebuilding, rather than just bleeding the system and having at it. I rebuilt my master, but the slave began leaking a few months after I got my car back on the road and got a few miles on it; should have done them both at the same time...

- Oil 20w50
- I use BMW coolant that someone donated to my cause, but it is suggested-- Aluminum head
- ATE Super Blue brake fluid

There is an on-line Owner's Manual in the Links section of the site, and you can browse that for suggested fluids.

Good luck...
 
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