Labor of love ?? or a real case of OCD

84E24

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I finished working on the undercarriage and felt like sharing.

I started a few weeks ago and scraped all the undercoating off.
Sanded, poked, prodded everywhere. Found a little surface
rust. Ground it out, and treated.

Next used Por 15 Self Etching Primer from firewall to rear
bumper and from rocker to rocker.

Next used Por 15 in a gloss black all over also. The blue you
see is a reflection of the lift legs.

I mask off the frame and a few mounting brackets.

I applied about 1 1/2 gal of Lizard Skin. www.lizardskin.com

It drys and lighter grey. There will be a nice contrast between
the grey and the black frame, brackets and drive shaft with
the silver springs and sway bars.

Forgot to add the link HTTP://picasaweb.google.com/steve.blingham

Too far over the top.... yet? or just on my way, lol.
 

blumax

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Under-cariage treatment

Very well done on under-carriage--some suggestions to consider if not already on your 2 do list--

1) that you treat under fenders in same manner as that is where the greatest risk of rust & corrosion occurs--accumulated silt+water=corrosion
2) also clean out all silt and crap from your lower inner door areas and then treat the same--water running inside doors of coupes is a given--so protect
3) avoid driving your coupe in the damaging weather conditions you have in Ohio--plus you could be "fair game" for that 6,000# SUV driver
4) do yourself a favor if you still have the pressed paper door panels--treat the backside with clear POR-15--no more damage from moisture
5) if really serious about long term preservation--as you appear to be--don't put a hose stream over the top of your coupe for the many reasons I have stated in numerous prior posts

JMHO
 

84E24

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Items 1 & 2 were done a few months ago to the same extent.
I know the worm is still there to some extent.

Item 3, the car will be a part timer and special event car.
Out for fun on those dry days.

Item 4, I did the same Por and Lizard Skin inside the doors
and back windows. Both sides. I had all the window hardware
silver zinc plated. I was thinking of doing something to the
backs of the door panels. I will order it tonight. Also,
I was thinking of putting some type of thick mil plastic over
the openings also. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
 

blumax

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Steve
thick mil plastic sheeting isn't necessary--lightweight but sturdy is easier to handle and won't resist the door panel attachment whereas thicker is awkward to work--most hardware stores can supply the type I'm describing--before reinstalling door panels stick on a square piece with carpet trim adhesive shot onto the raw door frame sufficient to secure it in place--trim to fit with razor blade or exacto knife--voila--your moisture barrier--this is the way they were originally equipped when delivered from the factory--of course the first time anyone removed the door panel the moisture barrier was ripped away to access the inner workings--then rarely replaced--so moisture was able to attack the pressed paper backing

your prepping and protection sounds well thought out and very thorough.

BTW--a complete and thorough coating of POR-15 on a well prepared steel surface devoid of other coatings will permanently and absolutely prevent moisture from reaching that surface--so rust or corrosion of that suface is no longer possible.
 

Bill Riblett

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Door panel lining

The original stuff BMW used should still be available. It is called something like acela cloth. The CS part number is
51 92 7 559 180 and it is sold by the meter.

If that doesn't work, any half decent parts guy should be able to find it as something similar has been continued to be used on BMWs.

I have used plastic shower curtain liner material in the past without problem, but it is probably heavier than necessary.
 

84E24

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Thanks Bill,

New part number 51 95 1 924 961 Just spoke with Max at Maximillian Import and it is stocked in the US. Cost is $28.52 per meter. It has the glue already on it with a peal away backing. Section 41-14 on the site item #2.

Thanks,
 
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