Let us give thanks to the Car Gods

Ohmess

Ohmess

I wanna DRIVE!
Site Donor $
Messages
5,088
Reaction score
2,929
Location
Aiken, SC
For they are great

20160401_165629.jpg


Heater core bypass is in, which means the cooling system is done, starter is wired, which means the electrical is done!, gauges are wired, intake is installed, and both the fuel delivery and linkage plans are moving along nicely.

'tis a good day to be a car guy. Thank you Car Gods.
 
Schwing! Your gasket material and templates are on the kitchen table ready for the process tomorrow
 
Last edited:
Great topic

What does that really mean


did you know that simple physics

if say the side mirror casts a shadow to a point and
you can see its reflection in the paint then at that spot

the wind will follow that exact curve and spot

that"s how they design the italian
beauties and ___ ____ __ especially our coupe

the lines of our cars are timeless
that"s a fact i bet you never knew about the body
 
Last edited:
Bmachine said:
Out of curiosity, which bypass method did you choose? Several options have been discussed on the board at various times...
Click to expand...

An excellent question, and one which consumed a large portion of the day today. It turns out that the nifty curvy hoses I originally installed cleared the carbs, but presented problems when the horns were in place. Thus, I moved to plans B, C, D, E ... until I arrived at this:

20160402_174402.jpg


I used the Delco bypass valve (http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-5533-Original-Equipment-Shut-Off/dp/B000C9DDIA) Rob and others recommend in the really excellent thread on this (http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10824&highlight=bypass). Obviously, I removed the vacuum solenoid and can only actuate it by hand. The hoses from the heater core connection on the firewall were cut from this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gtr-63912

The hoses from the bottom of the valve were all cut from a straight hose and joined with 90 degree brass fittings (Yes, I know. Lot of potential leak areas there.) I am not sure about the part number for the hose from the top back portion of the valve to the gooseneck on the back of the head, but I believe it was a BMW hose I removed from the car prior to installing all of this.

Basically, I installed the valve as close as possible to the firewall. I even cut the valve arm in half to allow the valve to be placed farther away from the number 3 carb and tighter to the firewall. This means I will have to squeeze my fingers right along the firewall to open and close the valve, but I figure I won't be doing this a lot so its not a big deal.
 
Oh, and whilst wrestling with all of this, my air conditioning parts arrived, so I decided to rough in the condenser:

20160402_174416.jpg


Hence, huge progress has been made and I am about to retire to my deck to ponder physics, shadows, curves, beauty and other mysteries.
 
So today, Annabelle says to me "Honey, Spring is here and I've decided I need to lose a few pounds so I can look good for you when we go out together."

Now as we all know, it ain't easy for those of us over 40 (or 50...) to lose weight. But she stuck with it and well, its pretty easy to see she's lost a ton of weight:

20160403_134746.jpg


Isn't she great!
 
Ohmess said:
An excellent question, and one which consumed a large portion of the day today. It turns out that the nifty curvy hoses I originally installed cleared the carbs, but presented problems when the horns were in place. Thus, I moved to plans B, C, D, E ... until I arrived at this:
Click to expand...

Excellent info. Thanks very much!
 
Removing that old York compressor seems like such a great idea.

Was there any particular gotchas on that removal or was it pretty much "detach the hoses, unbolt the thing and toss it in the metal recycling pile"?
 
Bmachine said:
Removing that old York compressor seems like such a great idea.

Was there any particular gotchas on that removal or was it pretty much "detach the hoses, unbolt the thing and toss it in the metal recycling pile"?
Click to expand...

That pretty much describes the process. Some bodily contortions are required to get to the rear top bolt, primarily because the head of the 17mm bolt holding the bracket to the engine block is in the way. And my bushings are pretty shot, allowing the compressor to wobble, which means the bottom shackles were chewed up in places, but in general it wasn't too bad. I put a bottle jack under the thing which I had to work around; I did not want that boat anchor falling on me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top