first preparation of the surface, using a peculiar product:
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lokari fender protection installation
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
front
fixed using ss rivets
thanks,
FLUID FILM, and PERMA FILM, are really great, only need to blow away dust prior to application, they cover evenly the surfaces, and sit there preventing air or moisture getting in contact with car body
here we can find 5liter cans at reasonable price, and just spay it over all underbody and fenders
the people of LOKARI told me about it.when i visited them in munich. nice guys, they repair, and renew mercedes ponton cars
FLUID FILM, and PERMA FILM, are really great, only need to blow away dust prior to application, they cover evenly the surfaces, and sit there preventing air or moisture getting in contact with car body
here we can find 5liter cans at reasonable price, and just spay it over all underbody and fenders
the people of LOKARI told me about it.when i visited them in munich. nice guys, they repair, and renew mercedes ponton cars
Canadians take their rust protection very seriously (Some at least do, the rest buy Hyundais). We have two systems that I have used on a yearly basis for close to 30 years .
http://www.krown.com
http://www.rustcheck.com
The benefit of both these oily products is that they go into the panel as a Mist, thus seeking out every inner crevice. They creep up as well. I plan on doing every pocket of my Coupe on a yearly basis once I get the old underseal off. If you are interested in trying a sample, I can put a spray can in the mail.
http://www.krown.com
http://www.rustcheck.com
The benefit of both these oily products is that they go into the panel as a Mist, thus seeking out every inner crevice. They creep up as well. I plan on doing every pocket of my Coupe on a yearly basis once I get the old underseal off. If you are interested in trying a sample, I can put a spray can in the mail.
Bwana
Well-Known Member
Nicely done! About the same as mine although I didn't do the sheet metal spray. I did, however, spray the insides of the fenders so it hopefully will slow down the rust from the inside out.
I didn't realize Lokari sold liners for the rear. Are they worth it? Are there rust issues in the rear?
I didn't realize Lokari sold liners for the rear. Are they worth it? Are there rust issues in the rear?
hi bob, thank you very much
yes, i assume that you ought to be experts on that matters to fight those extreme weather conditions there
it will be very nice to try a sample, but aerosols are a problem when you try to ship them, aren't they ?
hi, rear liners?, no, they do not sell rear liners, probably my thread is a little bit confusing at this point, i prepared the rear side with the same anti-rust product, but there were no liners to install there ! you can see that there are no hidden cavities in the rear area, so that is the reason for not need of liners there, any way it is worth to spray some LIQUID FILM there
next week i will receive a big order of LIQUID FILM, and PERMAFILM form germany, and i will finish all the underbody
i will use a pistol and air compressor
i will also (as the lokari instructions state) open two holes in the liners to be able to spray product into the cavity formed by the inner fenders and the lokaris
i only need to find a suitable cap to close those holes afterwards
regards
John Buchtenkirch
Well-Known Member
Not bad and certainly a country mile better than doing nothing. Without actually using the liners that’s my best & most honest endorsement. American cars used rubber edged baffles like that on many of the cars in the fifties. After the undercoating broke down and the rubber dried out they ended up rotting where the rubber gasket touched the inside of the quarter panels. Because of that I would suggest going a slightly different route on the installation. I would suggest spending extra time on the mounting system and make the liners so they can be un-bolted and easily removed. That way they can be removed every so often to blow out whatever road dirt has accumulated and you can also inspect and maintain or freshen up the fender’s undercoating. I would also lightly abrasive blast the down side of the liner so undercoating would have a chance of sticking. Once I had the liners installed I’d caulk the edges of the rubbers to the aluminum using “3M fast & firm” to actually glue the rubber edges to the liner. After allowing the caulking to set up for a day or two I’d undercoat the aluminum to kill the race car look. AGAIN, I’ve never installed or even seen these liners but that’s very likely what I would do if I did. ~ John Buchtenkirch
P.S. I will just add that our coupes are sort of strange in the eyes of a body man :roll:. The front fenders are built open style (no fender skirts) like a fifties American car. The rear has a full wheel house that’s spot welded in just like any late model car. So in my eyes, unfortunately it’s a car constructed with 2 completely different eras of manufacturing. Imagine how many more coupes would be around today if they had plastic front fender skirts installed from the factory. Many people love the coupes and think they are worth saving, it’s just that rust repair costs become too expensive.
P.S. I will just add that our coupes are sort of strange in the eyes of a body man :roll:. The front fenders are built open style (no fender skirts) like a fifties American car. The rear has a full wheel house that’s spot welded in just like any late model car. So in my eyes, unfortunately it’s a car constructed with 2 completely different eras of manufacturing. Imagine how many more coupes would be around today if they had plastic front fender skirts installed from the factory. Many people love the coupes and think they are worth saving, it’s just that rust repair costs become too expensive.
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