day66
Well-Known Member
In a nutshell, it’s a mess. It will the front end taking apart to sort it out properly, but that’s not fatal as long as you budget for the work that’s needed.
Looking at a late 73.. insight appreciated
- Thread starter 70roundtail02
- Start date
I vote do nothing! Let it remain a fully functional, thoroughly enjoyable, beautiful “mess”.
Crude patches likely hiding lots of rust.
Congrats, you answered 6 out of 6 of tferrer's questions correctly. But I have been around these cars long enough to know that every one of those six correct answers can turn 180 and bite you back. If this is all you can afford and have the skills, connections, and experience you seem to have, go for it. But be sure to add enthusiasm, passion, love for the marque, infinate patience, and free time.
One of the rules of this site is: Buy as much car as as far as you can possibly stretch your budget. The $25,000 bargin will ultimately cost you much more than a "Buy It Now" and do much less(note I avoid using the word "little") 6 or 7 point car.
Please keep us posted.
One of the rules of this site is: Buy as much car as as far as you can possibly stretch your budget. The $25,000 bargin will ultimately cost you much more than a "Buy It Now" and do much less(note I avoid using the word "little") 6 or 7 point car.
Please keep us posted.
I see quite some rough patches on structural area's; that's good and bad: 'Good' as in it saved the car from scrapping, and apart from the obvious welding marks, there is little rust to be seen. Let's all hope that in the area's that you can't see, the rust is equally OK, but only and endoscope will tell you that (bottom of A/B/C pillars)
'Bad' as in you don't know how well the welding was sealed up. And the welds are crude and don't look nice. Rustwise it may be OK-isch if the PO generously cut out the rust, cleaned everything well and patched on fresh edges and sealed everything well. That would be effective; structurally you're OK, rust-wise not bad; but she's isn't the best looking girl in the class anymore.
If the PO just welded a plate over the rust, and only painted the front, then you'll have a hole in 5 years.
Downside of getting those areas all crisp and well is 200 hours (plus minus a hundred) of sheet metal work.... It does look however that your fenders have been replaced, as the patches are stuck under them; i cannot imagine anyone doing that 10-15 years back without buying new fenders as they must have been rotten beyond patching as well. So those fenders are likely quite OK / salvagable.
Now as I don't see any signs of the welds rusting through, and if the repair has been a while back, then I think it has been done crude but effective as the rust has been kept dormant; I am in with the advice of @Markos ; drive it!
example pic: it looks like this lower A-pillar has been horizontally split in two; rough welds visible, but nu rust holes.
'Bad' as in you don't know how well the welding was sealed up. And the welds are crude and don't look nice. Rustwise it may be OK-isch if the PO generously cut out the rust, cleaned everything well and patched on fresh edges and sealed everything well. That would be effective; structurally you're OK, rust-wise not bad; but she's isn't the best looking girl in the class anymore.
If the PO just welded a plate over the rust, and only painted the front, then you'll have a hole in 5 years.
Downside of getting those areas all crisp and well is 200 hours (plus minus a hundred) of sheet metal work.... It does look however that your fenders have been replaced, as the patches are stuck under them; i cannot imagine anyone doing that 10-15 years back without buying new fenders as they must have been rotten beyond patching as well. So those fenders are likely quite OK / salvagable.
Now as I don't see any signs of the welds rusting through, and if the repair has been a while back, then I think it has been done crude but effective as the rust has been kept dormant; I am in with the advice of @Markos ; drive it!
example pic: it looks like this lower A-pillar has been horizontally split in two; rough welds visible, but nu rust holes.
Back to more questions re what you actually want to do with the car?
1) Just drive and you don't care what under the hood looks like?
2) Fun plus an investment you'd like to see a break-even return on your time in 5 years when you sell?
3) Make it a correct, beautiful driver?
1) Just drive and you don't care what under the hood looks like?
2) Fun plus an investment you'd like to see a break-even return on your time in 5 years when you sell?
3) Make it a correct, beautiful driver?
70roundtail02
Active Member
Definitely in the #1/2 categories. Work and address issues as needed clean it up as I go along.
70roundtail02
Active Member
The car is pretty clean overall, older respray, interior is all there and in good condition. It’s got the blue velour interior.
Not sure what you mean by that.
#1 condition means PERFECTION! Usually commands $150-200k!
If you're fine w/those scabby horrible patches on the front towers, go for it! Don't be surprised if the other 99% of the iceberg gets found out later.
@teahead ; I think @70roundtail02 was referring to the 3 options given by @tferrer, not the common 1 to 5 value grading system.