M30 Frankenstein Engine Cam Timing

Should I forget about my cam and have a cold german beer?


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jhjacobs

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I recently obtained a 3.0CS and after driving it for a few days it simply died when I pulled out of the driveway. The problem turned out to be a defective condenser insulator that was intermitantly shorting out the points. This problem took several weeks to noodle out but in the process I discovered and corrected a different problem that has me curious and a bit confused. When digging into the engine I found that the CAM timing was off by one tooth (at least I think this was the case) so I set it forward to the correct position. I would appreciate some second opinions because I am now doubting myself.

From 1972-1980 I a Bavaria and I rebuilt the engine several times. Unfortunately I don't still have a factory manual but I recall that to set the cam timing the engine should be set to TDC with the #1 cam lobes poining down. Then the top bolt on the cam wheel should be aligned with the little cast/milled feature on the head. RIGHT? Anyway, with new points, condensor, cam alighned, timing set, dual webers synchronized reasonably well it seems to be running nicely ... idles smoothly at 960 RPM, no missing, and will pull to redline in every gear but 5th.

I am really wondering if the cam is supposed to be set one tooth off (for some reason or other) with this engine? From what I can tell, the engine is an M30 3.0/3.3 from around 1979-1986 because it has a single row timing chain (feature of crankshaft gear). The head has a 1977 casting mark (assume this was done to allow the old weber carbs to be used). The cam appear to be factory standard. Is there any reason for the timing to have been set off by one tooth?

Last question. I am not thrilled about the single row timing chain; has anyone every heard of them jumping a tooth? This seems unlikely because the chain, tensioner, and guide all appear to be quite new and in good condition. I am hoping that the person responsible for building this Frankenstein engine simply didn't get it right. However, it did seem to run fairly well before it stopped running...

Sorry for the long post but I had to get this off my mind and I need some reassurance.
 
On my M90 Euro motor you set the cam gear with the bolt hole (as I recall) straight up with #1 at TDC. Sounds like yours is NOW correct.

S
 
JJ-it's obviously impossible to know for sure, without seeing your cam gear in person, but the way you've described it is proper and it does in fact sound like you were off one tooth. I've rebuilt three M30 engines and the bolt in the timing gear should line up with the milled/raised section on the head.

I doubt that your timing chain jumped a tooth. It would take the tensioner being completely busted for that to happen and I think you've have known if it had.

I searched my photo archives as I thought I'd had a picture of one of the engines I rebuilt but I could not find one.

Good luck!
 
You are correct as allready stated by the other guys. I normally draw an imaginary line through the upper and lower bolts, if it runs through the centre line of the motor it's all good. I think you've allready solved the riddle when you state that the chain and tensioner etc look brand new. Single row chains have a service life of at least 100K miles to the best of my knowledge. Relax my car has a 81 M535 motor in it and that has a single row chain and I'm not worried.
Gazzol
 
I appreciate the feedback and reassurance. In the old days I used to work on Baveria's and 2002's quite a bit. However, it's been more than 25 years since I popped a valve cover let alone dig deeper into a car engine. I'm looking forward to the restoration journey.
 
You should consider your cam AND have a cold german beer.

I agree with the others. Mine was one tooth off when I pulled it apart, too. I guess its hard for some people to get right.
 
I don't think that one tooth would make that much difference as it's within build tolerances - opinions?

I recently bought an Audi 100 Quattro estate car as a high speed tow barge :wink: with a 2.8 litre V6. As it has no service history I decided to replace the cam belt on it. I found on one bank of cylinders the cam timing was around 15 degrees out. but it was still running!!! Runs abit better now. I must admit

For all the rally car engines I have built I have always used a vernier timing belt, or chain sprocket to get the valve timing spot on

Malc
 
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