MB Door Stop "Click" What Insert?

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bavbob

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I originally used a nylon sleeve to match the MB door stop to the OEM pin but it crapped out quickly. I went to a brass insert and still have some play and a click. Does anyone have an insert that has stood the test of time and if so, what is it and where to get it? I have the ID/OD and tried to solve it that way without success.
 
bavbob said:
I originally used a nylon sleeve to match the MB door stop to the OEM pin but it crapped out quickly. I went to a brass insert and still have some play and a click. Does anyone have an insert that has stood the test of time and if so, what is it and where to get it? I have the ID/OD and tried to solve it that way without success.
Click to expand...
eating-popcorn-emoticon.gif
 
There's a pair in this sale thread...still don't understand what they are.

FS E9 Interior Parts

1. Shift platform, used $275 needs boot. 2. Mercedes brake stops, new $50 each, better than BMW stock. 3. Dome light complete, used $50. 4. Threaded shift knob, used $100. 5. Windowing knobs, used $25 each. 6. Red screwdrivers 2 large and 1 small, used $150 each. 7. Dimmer pre 1974, used $100...
e9coupe.com e9coupe.com
 
He means the insulator piece/buffer that goes over the bracket pin (which holds the brake arm in place to the door jam) and into the loop of the door brake arm. This eliminates the play between the pin and the brake so it doesn't clack and snap each time you open or close the door. I have also yet to find a durable solution. Drilling the bracket holes is difficult if not impossible because you can't get a drill into there.
 
I used some copper brake pipe adjust to the correct size.
This was only a month ago so can’t comment on longevity, but it seems to work well.
 
May just pop out the brass sleeve I have in there now, put a crimp in it on the top and bottom, put it back and see what goes.
 
2002 door brake pin
Blue plastic vent hose that came with your car
Cut the hose with a fine dremel blade lengthwise.
 

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Man, I hate those aluminum pins, they tend to work up and come out at the bottom which after a few door openings and closing will usually break the tab off but just a thought as I sit here typing this out, drill a small hole in the bottom and put a small cotter pin in there Other than that, they do work well But I have found that the MB style replacements that are being used now are slightly larger at the end where the pin goes thru so I am not sure if the blue tubing is tight enough in there. I just 2 on a 2002 ti ( same style )that I m restoring and had to use a slightly thicker wall tubing to stop any clicking sound

Thanks, Rick
 
BAVBOB
I have the same clicking sound on my left door from the same MB replacement door check. Embarrassing when giving rides to admiring E9 fans.

Seems to me the way to fix is to
(1) find some tubing which has the right OD for a friction fit into the MB arm, and an ID that is smaller than the original pin.

(2) force the tube into the end of the check

(3) and then ream it out till you have the ideal fit for the pin.

Worst case, use solid rod and drill it out on a friends mill/drill.

I’m happy to give it a shot if you find the tube/rod (brass or copper please) and have a spare door check/brake arm
 
Thanks for all the ideas.

Mine did back out also. I took a Dremel to the pin, made a groove along the bottom over the entire circumference and used a cir clip. It stays put now.
 
I sealed the end with tape and filled the hole with (steel) epoxy. After a while I drilled a hole in the middle to fit the pin,...problem solved.
 
I also used a piece of brake pipe as a bush, so far so good.
Without the bush the MB door brake bangs upon opening.
 
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