Metal finish flash rusting

Rex Kapriellian

Rex Kapriellian

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So I’m contemplating stripping down my Tii body one panel at a time, but I don’t wanna chase my tail with the flash rusting. Is there a product to keep the metal from flash rusting and yet be neutralized, removed for paint prep? Without causing fish eyes or other imperfections down the line.
 
Maybe a bit more than you want to do, but I spray a thin coat of cheap primer, and wipe it off with thinners on a rag when the time comes.
 
Look at an Eastwood product called Metalwash I strip and polish parts for plating all the time but don't always get around to either plating or powder coating them right away, I mix up some of this solution and brush it on Also , use it on stripped sheet metal panels to stop flash rusting Works well for at least 3 months I use a precleaner ( acetone ) as a final wipe down before doing anything else. It seems to help the powder coat adhere better and the plating comes out great, no need for cleaning, the acid wash takes care of that Have not experienced any ill effects so far, being using this stuff for about 3-4years now

Thanks,Rick
 
When I had my chassis dipped, the facility applied a water based product that eliminates flash rust. It has been working beautifully (preventing flash rust) for more than 10 months so far. They would reveal exactly what product they used, but I've found similarly described items on the internet. Zerust, Sanchem, Rustlick are some I'd found. There's also Picklex 20, which is described as a leave on coating. They say it actually improves paint adhesion. I've used Picklex on miscellaneous items - not a body panel (yet).
 
I
stphers said:
Look at an Eastwood product called Metalwash I strip and polish parts for plating all the time but don't always get around to either plating or powder coating them right away, I mix up some of this solution and brush it on Also , use it on stripped sheet metal panels to stop flash rusting Works well for at least 3 months I use a precleaner ( acetone ) as a final wipe down before doing anything else. It seems to help the powder coat adhere better and the plating comes out great, no need for cleaning, the acid wash takes care of that Have not experienced any ill effects so far, being using this stuff for about 3-4years now

Thanks,Rick
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ll look into this, thank you
 
autokunst said:
When I had my chassis dipped, the facility applied a water based product that eliminates flash rust. It has been working beautifully (preventing flash rust) for more than 10 months so far. They would reveal exactly what product they used, but I've found similarly described items on the internet. Zerust, Sanchem, Rustlick are some I'd found. There's also Picklex 20, which is described as a leave on coating. They say it actually improves paint adhesion. I've used Picklex on miscellaneous items - not a body panel (yet).
Click to expand...
I’ll look into this as well
 
Back in the day - I used a DuPont version of these PPG products (see info at bottom). I found they did a great job keeping bare steel from rusting. Yes, the conversion coating sometimes left what looked like a little flash rust after it dried. But if I wiped that off, no more rust occurred. Once I left a piece of bare alloy steel (Reynolds 753) in a damp basement for nearly a year and it remained rust free. I would sometimes seal the metal with an zinc chromate etch primer before doing body work. I think today that type of primer is outlawed, so shops I trust will shoot catalyzed epoxy primer over a bare metal chassis (conditioned or not) before commencing with body work. Apparently body filler sticks just fine.

John



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bfeng said:
Back in the day - I used a DuPont version of these PPG products (see info at bottom). I found they did a great job keeping bare steel from rusting. Yes, the conversion coating sometimes left what looked like a little flash rust after it dried. But if I wiped that off, no more rust occurred. Once I left a piece of bare alloy steel (Reynolds 753) in a damp basement for nearly a year and it remained rust free. I would sometimes seal the metal with an zinc chromate etch primer before doing body work. I think today that type of primer is outlawed, so shops I trust will shoot catalyzed epoxy primer over a bare metal chassis (conditioned or not) before commencing with body work. Apparently body filler sticks just fine.

John
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Hey John,
I assume you are talking about the DX-520 metal conditioner, right (not the cleaner)? I remember the Dupont metal conditioner, but can't seem to find the same product today. The one I find now talks about rinsing it off as part of the process, but I remember just "wiping" it off and leaving the residue on the surface. That is similar to how the Picklex works, too.
Stephen
 
Same here in Europe, catalyzed epoxy, ( also called 2K Epoxy) is a great first layer over fresh steel. Comes in those press-a-plunger rattle cans that SFdon hinted at, but you can also mix it yourself from tins if you have spray gun equipment. No issues to paint directly over it (if applied clean, really rust free underneath yata...yata..)

I prefer to have an electrolytically zinced layer underneath the epoxy. IF it's not possible to drop the parts off at my local electro zinc coater, (ie parts bigger than the hood, or having sandwiched layers that leach acid) then I prefer to have it sandblasted. If that is not possible I use a wire wheel and chemically etch the last rusty bits out.

Also 1k epoxy exists, it comes in rattle cans too, is about half the cost of 2K, but use it only when you remove it in full prior to painting. I believe (not sure) that 1k epoxy is less tough and let's moisture through. It needs a sealant like a gloss coat.
 
autokunst said:
Hey John,
I assume you are talking about the DX-520 metal conditioner, right (not the cleaner)? I remember the Dupont metal conditioner, but can't seem to find the same product today.
Stephen
Click to expand...
Yes, the SX-520. I have NOT used this myself, it the guy who did my Alfa HTv body says it works fine.

The old DuPont stuff was 5717S then 5818s. It had to be cleaned off with a wet rag. Once dry, there was often a bit of hazy residue and a little flash rust. I would clean that off ‘dry’ y running down with m gentle scotch bite (white) and paper towels.

10 years ago I bought some new stuff that’s more environmentally friendly. It recommended rinsing over wiping. It seems to also provide great protection on bare metal.
 
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