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steve

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Okay so my oil pressure isn’t related to the wrong oil filter canister/block combination, I've tried different pickup spots (oil housing & head) for the gauges.

So my question is: Can I remove the oil pan and plastigauge the bearings rod and main? I've heard that yes I can do it but also heard that because the engine is sitting in the car (as oppose to on a stand upside down.) that the weight of the crank may give an inaccurate measure? Also while in there can the oil pump be inspected/replaced?

Any other suggestions of things to look for?
 
I can't see any way it would influence the rod bearing measurement, and I'm skeptical that it would have enough influence on the mains to matter. Just remove and install the main caps one at a time. If the clearance is large enough to show a significant difference from the weighted to unweighted side, that pretty much says your bearings are too loose.

If you pull the pan you can replace the oil pump. You might have to loosen the engine mounts and jack it up a bit to get access to all the bolts. I can't recall specifically if the e9 crossmember requires this.
 
Yeah I'm with Tony. I can't imagine at all how the weight of the crank would change the measurement of the Plastigage. The material itself gets squished significantly between the bearing and crank and I just don't see how all the other places the crank is supported would allow that to change significantly. Like the man says, do one at a time. I'm interested to see what you get for clearances after you've done this.
 
Well I not looking forward to doing this but I have to for my own piece of mind.

Do I need to install new bolts after I remove them? I know arp studs and bolts were used during the install. Or can I safely put the old ones back on? Also this engine has a crank scaper that is going to complicate the sitiuation a little on the assembly.
 
Well I not looking forward to doing this but I have to for my own piece of mind.

Do I need to install new bolts after I remove them? I know arp studs and bolts were used during the install. Or can I safely put the old ones back on? Also this engine has a crank scaper that is going to complicate the sitiuation a little on the assembly.
Click to expand...

Any compelling reason NOT to pull the engine? I know it sounds like a huge PITA, but it's really not that bad. Compared to laying on your back with oil dripping on you...
 
Well not that I can think of. If you think about it I guess it is the best way to do it. And if there are any issues I guess I'm that much ahead of the game.

In reality it's only a couple of hours to pull the engine. And its going to take that long to mess around getting the pan off and back on if not longer while under the car. Not to mention all the swearing thats going to come with it when oil drips in my face. :x
 
Realize, however, that once the engine is out and the oil pan is off, you will hear the Siren's Song of "As Long As I'm Doing This, I Might As Well Do That". As long as the engine is out and the oil pan is off, I might as well just rebuild the whole engine, and as long as the engine is out I might as well clean up the engine bay, and now that the engine bay looks so good, I probably should remove all the suspension and powder coat it, and the interior could sure use some attention etc, etc, etc so that a year later your car is just a shell sitting on jack stands and there are parts strewn all over your garage and you stand there wondering just what the hell happened 'cause all you wanted to do was find out why the oil pressure was a bit low.
 
hi steve,

drop me line if you need help pulling it.....your place?
maybe I can lend a hand, schedule permitting......

-shanon
 
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