My 1970 2800CS

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Drola

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Miami, FL
you guys had commented on my car months ago when I had it listed. from what I remember the general consensus is that it is fairly priced considering condition.
Is this car really not even worth the $20-22k I'd like to get for it???
I just don't get it. Maybe I'm delusional. Only offers I've gotten have been lowballers trying to steal it. Not a single serious person has even come to see it.
You guys tell me. Maybe I'm living in la-la land

www.ebay.com

1970 BMW 2800CS | eBay

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miami.craigslist.org

1970 BMW 2800CS E9 - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive...

With hesitation I'm selling my 1970 BMW 2800CS E9 coupe. I looked long and hard before finding...
miami.craigslist.org
 
For $25k, I'm not seeing a whole lot to criticize. It seems better than most $25k cars.

Sure, Chamonix isn't as striking on E9s as other colors, but one can do a whole lot worse for that kinda money.

Maybe what's worrisome is that rocker area. Is it just surface rust or can you poke it with a screwdriver and go through? Pics of the Spare tire well and closeups of that front inner fenders where it looks a bit suspect would help.

I honestly think you can easily get $25k on BAT, but as said, you'll need a ton of pictures in all the critical areas (behind glove box, fuse box door) spare tire well, closeups of inner fenders, rear shock towers, etc.

00F0F_ghny9uIfnz3_0lM0t2_1200x900.jpg
 
all the rust you see there is just surface corrosion.
the worst of the rust is the floor pan where the circle for the assembly line jig is on the driver side read footwell. still not too bad but the undercoating is peeling away from the metal due to corrosion. still can't poke a screwdriver through it but it looks like it could use a patch. also there is a patch on the driver floor where someone cut out a piece maye 4"x6" and replaced it with plain sheet metal
otherwise it's a pretty solid car all around. matching motor hums beautifully but needs some tuning.
yes it needs some misc work on stuff but overall a decent car
 
It's not good cars that are lacking but good buyers; I read the CL ad and it's clear without being over verbose (as I often am). Just hang in there, someone who wants a nice e9 that they can work on and love will come along and they will not feel the need to haggle much on the price. It seems like a very fair deal-pending a good inspection. Thanks for making it available here.
 
Drola said:
all the rust you see there is just surface corrosion.
the worst of the rust is the floor pan where the circle for the assembly line jig is on the driver side read footwell. still not too bad but the undercoating is peeling away from the metal due to corrosion. still can't poke a screwdriver through it but it looks like it could use a patch. also there is a patch on the driver floor where someone cut out a piece maye 4"x6" and replaced it with plain sheet metal
otherwise it's a pretty solid car all around. matching motor hums beautifully but needs some tuning.
yes it needs some misc work on stuff but overall a decent car
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Well, I'll toss in my 2 cents because you asked. You've been trying to peddle this car everywhere for a long while. It looks like a decent car but the perception is tainted because it's been on Pelican (trying to trade for a 911) and then the auction site, then CL a couple of times. It's like a house that sits on the market for to long, gets the "there must be something wrong with it if it hasn't sold yet" taint and the more you try to sell it, the worse the perceived issues become.

I'd try to address the smaller low/no cost issues it has (bleeding the brakes, clean up the engine compartment and deal with some of the surface rust) take some good pictures and BaT it.

Again my 2 cents, which is about what my opinion is worth!

Good luck!
 
I wish I were in the market for a fun project, because this car looks like a good basis for a resto or rolling resto. If I were retired, I would be all over this as a car to work on.

I was just in Dania Beach two weeks ago at Tesla.

Be patient and hang in there.

My other thought is that South FL is just not a vintage car place. Lots of Lambos and other exotics, but interest in vintage stuff is pretty weak. Scott
 
Somewhat unrelated. In the pictures is this a good example of good places to jack up an e9? I think so but wanted to comfirm from more experienced folks.

Thanks.
 
gkb said:
Somewhat unrelated. In the pictures is this a good example of good places to jack up an e9? I think so but wanted to comfirm from more experienced folks.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Yes, the image above shows the popular and critically acclaimed "sound" lift point locations. There are some other variants, but the rear subframe chassis bolt points at the rear, and the frame rails (which risk being dented/deformed a bit) are a commonly accepted place, as well. It is where I've been lifting my coupe.
 
autokunst said:
Yes, the image above shows the popular and critically acclaimed "sound" lift point locations. There are some other variants, but the rear subframe chassis bolt points at the rear, and the frame rails (which risk being dented/deformed a bit) are a commonly accepted place, as well. It is where I've been lifting my coupe.
Click to expand...

I always put wood in between the lift and the frame rails. I don't want metal to metal contact which will most likely result in a crease which will in turn convert to rust. As long as the frame is solid I jack up from there. If I even suspect that the rail is somewhat compromised (usually because of rust) then I don't jack up from there
 
I looked at the car today and confirmed all those suspect areas are indeed surface rust.
We can pick the car apart all day long. There are many imperfections. That was not the point of this thread.
Yes, I offered the car for sale or trade on Pelican. Why not? maybe someone has a 911/912 and wouldn't mind trading. I also offered to put money on top. I am a Porschephile at heart and have been collecting them for many years.
Had someone bought this car at what I feel is a reasonable price a while back there wouldn't be a need to keep relisting it. Which is what I don't get.
The whole point being - I'm trying to get low 20's for the car. Am I crazy? Is this car really not worth even that? That's what I just don't understand. Considering the condition of like comparables I think I'm being reasonable but I guess not ....
 
If I did not already have 2 cars that I am in the process of sorting, I would be interested in it. Seems with a week of work it would present much better. It only takes one person to buy it and he/she will come along. To address the pricing question. I don't think it is all about price. What we all are looking at is not the "introductory price" but the effort, cost etc... to make it the car we would want. So $25k vs $22k vs $20k is not really the issue. That is only a drop in the bucket compared to what it will take to make it right. Personally I would spend a little money/time and clean it up, then try to get it on BAT as a project with a $18k. I bet it brings a good bit more than that.. Good luck.
 
I would spend some time sanding the rust, putting on some rust-mort or other treatment on it, primer, etc. Both the engine compartment and underside.

Sand the white goop off too.

On my coupe, I chipped off a lot of the fender insulation off to see what's underneath. I would do that if the insulation is as ugly as what I see to prove it's sound.

Find some console silver switch holders.
 
Drola said:
I looked at the car today and confirmed all those suspect areas are indeed surface rust.
We can pick the car apart all day long. There are many imperfections. That was not the point of this thread.
Yes, I offered the car for sale or trade on Pelican. Why not? maybe someone has a 911/912 and wouldn't mind trading. I also offered to put money on top. I am a Porschephile at heart and have been collecting them for many years.
Had someone bought this car at what I feel is a reasonable price a while back there wouldn't be a need to keep relisting it. Which is what I don't get.
The whole point being - I'm trying to get low 20's for the car. Am I crazy? Is this car really not worth even that? That's what I just don't understand. Considering the condition of like comparables I think I'm being reasonable but I guess not ....
Click to expand...

First off, don't ask for an opinion and then get defensive when it's given. The cars been pimped on way too many sites for way too long. Take it off the market, clean it up and put it on BaT.... or you can keep spinning your wheels and wondering why it doesn't sell.
 
It could be your price is too high. It is generally less expensive in the end to buy a car already done than to buy a project. Unless you can do most everything yourself (panel replacement, body work, paint, upholstery installation, any and all mechanical work) you will be WAY underwater on a car in this condition if you want it to be attractive and reliable. In addition, parts for these cars are more expensive and harder to find than for many collectable cars. Because of this, the pool of potential buyers is pretty limited. If a buyer with lots of project experience (and hopefully a history with E9s) can evaluate the car in person he may be able to rationalize your price. This limits the pool of buyers even further...finding that local buyer. A buyer purchasing it sight unseen would bake more into his restoration budget to insure he covers the surprises, which lowers the amount he could offer.

Take a look at the E9s offered on BaT. There have been 99 of them...

bringatrailer.com

E9 Coupe

Browse and bid online for the chance to own a BMW E9 Coupe at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online.
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Find some that approximate your car. Here's one (but I didn't look too hard)...

bringatrailer.com

No Reserve: 1970 BMW 2800CS Project

Bid for the chance to own a No Reserve: 1970 BMW 2800CS Project at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #28,941.
bringatrailer.com bringatrailer.com

If you do end up putting it on BaT, you may have to list it with a reserve lower than your current asking or no reserve. BaT only gets paid if the car sells. They are popular enough that they can essentially dictate the reserve if you want them to list a car, and will only accept "no reserve" on many.
 
Sometimes a missing or damaged original part is better than something buggered. Like original bad paint is good and honest, and fresh bad repaints make one wonder what are they hiding?...Or silicone around a sunroof...In that vein, I think I'd remove those pieces of wood paneling from the front doors. They look like what they are. Nothing would be better, or include pictures of the restorable original wood parts, if you still have them. Its a small thing in the big picture, but it can make some people wonder what other short-cuts there are that are not as obvious.
I sold a solid project car recently (took almost two years), and it takes alot of patience to get a fair price to/from a pretty small demographic of folks. Or a low-ball price. Be patient if you can afford to...and keep it dry so that it doesn't physically depreciate futher. GLWTS.
 
Clean your car up some more and put your car on BAT.

Especially if that MIntgrun 74 POS can sell for $30k.
 
teahead said:
Clean your car up some more and put your car on BAT.

Especially if that MIntgrun 74 POS can sell for $30k.
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With all due respect to @Drola, there is no indication that the $30K "POS" is in any worse shape than this car. The 2800 CS has visible rust, visible interior issues, and a poorly executed color change. There is a reason why cars sell for under $30K, and this 2800CS and the mintgrun ticked off two boxes each.
 
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