Need Help Info on 71 2800

GK-E30M3

GK-E30M3

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Hi all i am looking to buy a 71 2800 and this would be my first E9 car please help let me know what to look for suposley the rockers are in decent shape both doors have some rust engine was rebuilt some time ago and interior is bad its a project that needs work but it very nice candidate to be saved southern car

1. Where to look for the rust
2. Whats the major diference beteween 2800 and 3.0
3. Whats something like that worth $$ ballpark
4. Any info toughts are great

thanks Chris
 
If you do a search everything you want will be at your finger tips. That said, rust is a big problem and you really need to have someone who knows and restores these cars to look at to see how much is this going to cost you in the long run. Also, some rust can only be evaluated by cutting into panels...which the seller will not let you do. I can't overstate this...have someone who know look at it or you may regret it! I talk from experience when I bought a "rust free car" .
abe
 
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Where are you located? Perhaps someone could suggest a place to get a PPI done, or someone on this board could look at it as well for free.
These are great cars, but I would decide on your level of committment to the effort before you buy. You can only know if one of these cars is rust free if you dismantle it, so you do the best you can, and have to live with uncertainty to some degree as far as the rust goes. There are tons of helpful people on this board, so go for it.
You can find the differences between the 2800cs and the 3.0cs, but it is not much. Brakes, rear track, etc.
Scott
 
thank guys i am not an expert but i have some expiriance with body work and mechanical

i will look at the links
 
GK-E30M3 said:
Hi all i am looking to buy a 71 2800 and this would be my first E9 car please help let me know what to look for suposley the rockers are in decent shape both doors have some rust engine was rebuilt some time ago and interior is bad its a project that needs work but it very nice candidate to be saved
Click to expand...

Note that e9's have a sheet metal cover over the structural rockers attached with sheetmetal screws. That cover is about the only part on the car that was rustproofed back in the 70's. So sure, no rust EVER shows up on e9 rockers from the outside. You need to pull off those covers to properly inspect the rockers. If the doors are rusted, and the floors are rusted, then the rockers.....

Why do you say this is a "nice candidate to be saved " if you know the interior is bad, and you are unsure about the corrosion situation? I'm not saying it isn't a good candidate, but don't decide first, and inspect later.
 
One of the many mantras about our lovely cars is, "buy someone else's restoration." Only if you are willing to invest x # of $$$s and get back minus by half x # of $$$s invested should you take on a project car.
It is cheaper than a Psycharist but not by much. Although you will get much better results with the coupe than the shrink.

Steve
 
i was told that car has original paint that nose panel shure looks like it was repaired with bondo

IMG_0279.jpg


the welds on this RS fender shure dont look original to me

IMG_0290.jpg


missing trim

IMG_0278.jpg


and here is a shot from interior

IMG_0287.jpg


asking price is $5000 and was told he is 2nd owner with lots of documents and records some spare parts included

what do you guys think ?

i think i will be searching for another project car but i like

1. White Color
2. Non Sunroof
3. Manual tranny
 
It seems like the seller already has been dishonest by the claims he has made that you have discovered which is not a good way to begin. How extensive are the rust issues? I recently went and looked at a 71' 2800cs in similar condition and asking price was $3,000 but I offered $2,000. I would walk away as all the small pieces you need to complete the car like the trim will end up costing you an arm and a leg to buy individually.
 
GK
As a 27 year owner of my E9, that car is just barely a donor car and more than likely not a candidate for restoration.
Spend your money more wisely with a better starter car.
steve
 
thanks guys thats the info i was looking for if anyone is close to Dallas TX its listed on CL as 1971 2.8 cs if anyone wants to chek it out
 
DallasCar

I have received a few emails from the owner of this car in Dallas. He said he bought it from a long time friend who bought the car new with lots of docs present. I am flying to Dallas this afternoon and plan on looking at this car this weekend. If anyone wants any info let me know. I can also refer a great shop for a ppi.
After seeing several pictures of this car I think the price does seem high, it is parked in an apartment complex which makes me think it lives outside and Dallas has had some good rain and snow even this year.
If anyone needs pics or info please email me hayesneelt at hotmail.com
 
great please chek it out and keep us posted maybe he is flexible


hplug said:
I have received a few emails from the owner of this car in Dallas. He said he bought it from a long time friend who bought the car new with lots of docs present. I am flying to Dallas this afternoon and plan on looking at this car this weekend. If anyone wants any info let me know. I can also refer a great shop for a ppi.
After seeing several pictures of this car I think the price does seem high, it is parked in an apartment complex which makes me think it lives outside and Dallas has had some good rain and snow even this year.
If anyone needs pics or info please email me hayesneelt at hotmail.com
Click to expand...
 
Gk- I would agree. The telltale signs of rust look bad: The lower fender and quarter panel areas are not too bad to fix on these cars - as there are patch panels available and you don't have to take the whole car apart to make the repairs. On this white car the top seam of the front fenders show rust spots that are not a good sign. For future reference look carefully at the areas that the tar sound-deadener material is covering along the fender tops shock tower opening, and under the VIN plate area. In some cases the rust may have migrated out from underneath and be obvious. Normally, the tar should be fairly smooth and uniform in texture. However, if it gives when you push on it, or has a bumpy look, then it could likely be rust/dirt expanding underneath. If you get real serious with a car, then it would be worth taking off the front wheels and getting a better look at all the areas of the wheel well (flashlight & mirror would be handy).

Good luck in your search.
 
Looks like an honest restoration project to me. C’mon, what else can you expect for a mere 5000 bucks?

Does it have rust? Yes sir, they all do to some extent, but judging by the pictures nothing out of extraordinary on this one.

The right hand wing has been changed at one point and the quality of the work might leave something to be desired. Still, a new wing is a new wing and saves you another 1000$ or so.

If you are looking to restore one of these beasts go for it. If not you’ll have to re-check your budget (and keep in mind that many of the “restored” examples for sale are actually crap covered by a shiny paint work)

Cheers Andy
 
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