Rjsnyc
Active Member
Read up on this here. Am I right that an E28 window motor will fit/work in an E9?
Need passenger side front window motor - E28 fits E9?
- Thread starter Rjsnyc
- Start date
The E28 Motors have to be the REAR left and right motors. The REAR LEFT E28 MOTOR (BOSCH # ending in 027 ) can be used on either the rear or front of the E9 Passenger's side.
The REAR RIGHT E28 MOTOR ( Bosch # ending in 026) can be used on either the rear or front of the E9 Driver's side .
The REAR RIGHT E28 MOTOR ( Bosch # ending in 026) can be used on either the rear or front of the E9 Driver's side .
jmackro
Well-Known Member
Yes, the rear E28 motors will work. And they can be made to fit pre-1974 e9's (I think they'll bolt into 74's). But they won't bolt right in to a pre-'74 car.
There used to be a pair of websites that outlined the mechanical and electrical modifications needed for this swap, but when I just tried to open them I got a "File not found" error (they were at /kdelimon/windowmotorconversion1 and /kdelimon/windowmotorconversion2).
I wrote a thread on this site in 2017 with some additional tips; that thread will give you a sense for a modifications:
https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/a-few-tips-on-installing-e28-window-motors.27320/
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Motors changed in Feb/Mar 1973.
Rjsnyc
Active Member
Mine is a 73. should I check the VIN? Or its a given needs to be modified?
Do you have two circuit breakers under the column? That indicates later motors and the switches don’t have a ridge in the middle.
jmackro
Well-Known Member
In addition to the circuit breaker thing that Chris mentioned, you can look at your existing motors. If they are the "sardine can" type, with three wires going into them and a separate gearbox, then you have the early style motors and modifications will be needed.
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FYI: replacing the 'Tuna Can' style motors with the L & R rear E28 motors will require a template & extra hole drilled for the difference with the mounting screws. Will also have to modify from 3 to the E28 2 wires. If the E28 motor 'sticks' like the Tuna Cans do, it may be possible to get it un-stuck by trying to push down or pull up while trying the switch. If that fails, the motor will have to be accessed to asses the directional failure. E28 motors do not have a tool to assist the like the Tuna Can 'comb tool'.
Rjsnyc
Active Member
Check voltage when trying to switch up - may not be the motor
mine was the same thing I renew wires and it works when it go down motor just fine just connection is bad I fix my E9with renew the wire and clean connection
Rjsnyc
Active Member
I swapped the rear right switch w the front right switch. The window does work, up and down. Going up it stops about halfway. Power is still going to it. Thoughts on what’s the most likely culprit in the window mechanism (if so)?
Thanks for the posts, which then led to the electrical. I’m learning I get to be more articulate when posting
Thanks for the posts, which then led to the electrical. I’m learning I get to be more articulate when posting
When applying power can you help it raise up with your hand? Tracks could be seriously gummed up with crud especially the rear.
Rjsnyc
Active Member
Yes, while applying power and with assist by hand it does go all the way up.
Time to clean and regrease the tracks
Just don't do it for long times as there is no current limiter and you heat up the switch doing that.
Rjsnyc
Active Member
As this has been a switch issue and not inherently a window motor issue (motor is working) I've looked into removing and cleaning the window mechanisms - the window gets stuck at half way up, but works fine going down. If I pull it up by hand while it's engaged it will go to the top. However I have read here that it can be very difficult to get the window realigned once reinstalling. Some had said it had never gotten right. Is there a short cut to cleaning that may not cause this? Might it be better to replace the motor, rather than attempting the deep clean and risking alignment issue?
kind regards
kind regards
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Go to page 19 here:
I show a pic of the rollers in the rear rail, it is pretty easy to remove the rail leaving glass in place. These NEED to be cleaned, I used gasoline. Just mark the bolt t at the bottom which controls in and out of the rail. You need to have glass half raised (I use a clamp to hold glass up) but you need access to the black plate in my pic. Remove three bolts and two that hold the rollers in place, carefully wiggle the rail out through bottom of door opening.
I show a pic of the rollers in the rear rail, it is pretty easy to remove the rail leaving glass in place. These NEED to be cleaned, I used gasoline. Just mark the bolt t at the bottom which controls in and out of the rail. You need to have glass half raised (I use a clamp to hold glass up) but you need access to the black plate in my pic. Remove three bolts and two that hold the rollers in place, carefully wiggle the rail out through bottom of door opening.