New Car Pics - knowledge requested please

nydesmo

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I've finally found and purchased the CS I want to own and restore.

Its a Silver / Blue 1974 (Serial # 4310095) and was purchased from a gentleman who bought it in 1978 (34 years ago) and came with a lot of documentation. The previous owner told me he never drove it in the rain or after a snow to ensure there was no salt on the roads and the underside of the car looks very good to the untrained eye. The interior is all original (radio/speakers too) and the leather was well oiled over the years and has a wonderful original patina. The wood is original and will need restoration.

Mechanically it is upgraded with a 3.3 Liter motor and a 89' M3 265/5 - 5 speed transmission. On top of the motor is dual Webers and below is a Stahl header. Plus the car sits on Bilsteins too.

The exterior of the car has many bubbles, but the shock towers are solid as is the bottom of the car.

Immediate issues are:
- The right rear disk/caliper has been run to bare metal and need to be replaced.
- Seat belts need to be replaced, passenger does not lock, driver side does not unlock.
- Horn works only sometimes.
- Window motors need replacing with rear e28's.

The list of issues is short and I am very happy. Below is a link to photo's of the car, I would greatly appreciate any feed back or knowledge of the car from those knowing more than me about the model.

https://picasaweb.google.com/NYDESM...&authkey=Gv1sRgCLnP172LlNnPRA&feat=directlink

Can anyone share with me the power difference in upgrading to a hotter cam and more open exhaust? Also, for street performance which cam should I be considering?

Many thanks,
Greg
 

Stan

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you might want to address the brakes, bubbles and rust issues before getting a hotter cam...

i had the same problem with my horn. It went a way over time as I sides it frequently (not in traffic but in the driveway to test it). First it sounded like a dieing cow and over time it went back to the original sound. Might just be the contacts.

Power windows might just need a good cleaning.
 
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Stevehose

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Keep the the original Becker radio! It can be rebuilt and/or iPod adapter installed. Many were cut out for DIN size over the years so you don't see these much.
 

Nicad

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Another Silver Coupe, congratulations. For seat belts I can recommend a guy from the 2002 faq forum who goes by the handle Blue Devils. I hope to use some of his services to put some rear three point belts in my Coupe eventually. Those are certainly long tube headers. I just had mine ceramic coated, which I am pretty sure will help them live on. If you keep yours, you might want to do this as it supposedly reduces cabin heat. Replacements are pricey.
 

nydesmo

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Thoughts and a wingding M5

Guys,

Thank you for your feedback,

Stan - I want to drive the car and get to know it. Brakes were fixed yesterday and then I took a 200 mile ride from NYC to Philadelphia and back. The car runs great, there is a hang up in the carbs when the throttle is pushed to full I need to figure out.

Bubbles - I showed the car to the painter yesterday and he told me to order outer rockers too. I am hoping the body will be a winter project.

Power Window - Thank you for the tip, will try that.

Radio - Crutchfield has a Retrosound radio that looks original I ordered and hope to have for a weekend project. New technology and old school / original look. The rear deck has only one speaker and I want to keep it. Crutchfield said to use the front channels to make stereo be front to rear. If I get or make another set of kick panels I will hide a set of speakers in the kicks. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_068RSM1BG3/Retrosound-Model-One-Black.html?tp=5684&nvpair=FFBrand|Retrosound ...

Horn - I think it has to do with the radio being on. It worked yesterday and then last night stopped again (with the radio on).

Now for the wingding -

I've looked for a E9 for sometime and during this time purchased a very inexpensive 88' M5 that looks terrible and runs like a raped ape. Due to its low cost, it was bought to be sacrificed for my E9 dream. Beside the S38 motor / electronics / cross member and rear suspension, brakes / Differential, rear window motors, what else can be used to upgrade the E9? Will front suspension / brakes components align too?

Thanks for your thoughts and ideas,
Greg
 
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61porsche

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Thoughts on

the carbs at full throttle.... secondaries.

First grab the rod or reach down and manually operate the butterflys to make sure it's just not stuck from inactivity. Might get lucky. And tighten the four screws on the top.

Second- diaphrams leaking, torn, crispy that need replaced. Pretty easy fix though and plenty info in the repair manual or Tech Info section above.
 

goodolarchie

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Looks like the driver floor pan has been replaced? From the rust near the plugs on the other side it looks like you might want to poke around and possibly replace that other pan.

I thought my e9's underbelly looked good when I first got it on the lift (the coating does a great job of hiding rust holes that happen from the inside-out), after some prodding with a flathead and pneumatic hammer there were more issues than I anticipated. Luckily these are this is the easiest "structure" of the car to patch, so if you skate away with a few floor holes and replacement outer (front) rockers, you're a lucky man. :)
 

nydesmo

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61Porsche, thanks for the carb tips, Friday I'll be working on the car and the carbs will be the first item addressed.

Goodolarchie, thanks for pointing out the right side. I know about the driver side patch and plan to replace the pan properly when the metal work is done.

Can someone recommend a reasonable place to purchase rockers?

Thanks,
Greg
 
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