New E9 Owner in the Pacific NW

mkekiddoc

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Tualatin, Oregon
I’ll try to be brief. When I was a wee lad in the early 70s, my father bought a used E10 (1600), which was our family car for 4 years until a large mechanical failure forced him to sell. But it left an impression in my young, car-crazed brain regarding BMWs. As a teenager, while friends had posters of Corvettes, Ferraris, and Lambos on their walls, I had a grainy calendar photo of an E9 CSL.

Fast forward to middle age adulthood, after owning a VW B5 Passat, an Audi B7 S4, and a Chevrolet SS Sedan (all manuals, of course), I took the plunge into BMW ownership last year and made my daily driver a Sunset Orange M2 Competition with gold CS 763M wheels (that color combo works better than you would think).

But I’ve been thinking about owning an E9 for at least 5 years. After meeting e9er at Cars and Coffee, being able to see the possibilities with his absolutely stunning ‘72 Coupe, I became increasingly serious about pulling the trigger. Thanks to Vince’s guidance (and after a visit to Coupe King, where Erik generously lent his valuable time educating me about purchase pitfalls and restoration costs), I found a nice ‘73 CS on BaT in April. 2240697 (fjord with white leather, 4-speed, slick top) has lived most of its life in California, where it was rescued from the bone dry Bakersfield area and underwent a cosmetic restoration (high quality repaint and total interior refurbishment). The engine, chassis, engine bay were not touched. Documentation shows that the 76,493 miles at purchase time in April 2024 are original. The previous owner bought it at a Bonham’s auction in January 2017 for $60,000 + fees, just 3 years after all that work was done.

But it had not been driven much during prior ownership, so needs some mechanical sorting. The only rust found so far is minimal - surface rust around the battery tray, as the engine bay remains untouched.

My plans? (1) To get this beauty to run well. If it doesn’t drive really well, what’s the point? My track experience has warped my perspective about driving. I may even breathe on the motor a bit - cam, headers, head work, possibly FI if I can’t get the dual Webers tuned well enough (installed by last owner)….not opposed to a M30B35 swap if desired result is elusive. And yes, I do know that these were never fast cars…just want it to get out of its own way. (2). Stainless exhaust. (3). Suspension/tire/wheel upgrade. (4). Finish the engine bay and get rid of the mild rust there. (5). 5-speed conversion. I think it has the 3.64 LSD and it just needs to calm down a bit on the freeway.

Then, I want to drive and enjoy this thing, and be a good caretaker. We have incredible, beautiful roads throughout the Pacific NW, and they are calling. Within a year or two it would be epic to drive 2240697 to Legends of the Autobahn (726 miles from home) and BMW SoCal Vintage (938 miles) shows.

I am excited to be part of this forum, with deep gratitude for the generosity, kindness, and fund of knowledge that exists here. I haven’t spent much time on forums in the past, but it’s already clear that this is a special place. Thank you in advance for your patience with this newbie and for my pleas and questions that are sure to come.
 
Did you buy it or just found it and are considering buying it?
The plans are perfect. Like Nike says, just do it.
5 speed yes.
Webers are fine.
Headers? Not if engine stays stock.
Wheels, no bigger than 15...
 
Correction to my above post: The restoration did include basic engine and suspension maintenance. “Not touched” was inaccurate and perhaps a little insulting to the fine work done at that time.
 
Did you buy it or just found it and are considering buying it?
The plans are perfect. Like Nike says, just do it.
5 speed yes.
Webers are fine.
Headers? Not if engine stays stock.
Wheels, no bigger than 15...
 

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Yeah, I was not clear. It’s in my garage. Thanks for the feedback! I would find 15” or 16” to be the sweet spot between handling, steering response, and ride. I’ve driven a Coupe with 17” and was a bit stiffer than I would prefer.
 
Beautiful car, white leather works great.
I would do the 5-speed, Alpina rims, Bilsteins, steering bits if needed, and that is it.
 
paint work looks great
which colour is it ? fjord you mentioned ?

i vote for 14" alpinas with 205/70 R14 tyre
bring suspension a smidge down
and enjoy a perfect ride on those carbs, if you cant fiddle the webers,...we will not comment using factory zeniths
 
Thank you for the feedback! I spoke with a previous owner who did the restoration. Two stage Glazurit finish, very high quality respray about 10.5 years ago. I have the receipts; many dollars changed hands. It needs some minor paint correction but a clay bar/cut/polish will make it right. I’m so happy to own a fjord car.

I will do everything I reasonably can to get this original motor to sing. Staying confident about the Webers.

Mike
 
Thank you for the feedback! I spoke with a previous owner who did the restoration. Two stage Glazurit finish, very high quality respray about 10.5 years ago. I have the receipts; many dollars changed hands. It needs some minor paint correction but a clay bar/cut/polish will make it right. I’m so happy to own a fjord car.

I will do everything I reasonably can to get this original motor to sing. Staying confident about the Webers.

Mike

glasurit is supposed to be the original paint, yes
an excellent paint work will take many hours prep, paint and polish, not to mention most important disassemble and reassemble, plus wait some weeks before reassemble to get paint dry and stable
10 years ago I assume still solvent base paint which gives correct colour using the old formula
 
Yeah, I was not clear. It’s in my garage. Thanks for the feedback! I would find 15” or 16” to be the sweet spot between handling, steering response, and ride. I’ve driven a Coupe with 17” and was a bit stiffer than I would prefer.

your opinion on the ride should be informed about suspension in advance, non declared sway bars, bushings, springs and shocks are relevant as well as rim /tyre sizes

IMHO, THE CAR LOOKS FANTASTIC when we mention straight lines and good gaps and offsets
i would remove side reflectors and put bumpers in their correct place, it makes a lot of difference
 
I see and value your points. That (your?) Coupe is gorgeous! What is the width of the 14” Alpina wheel? I’m guessing 7” if it supports a 205 section width tire.

Would it make sense to change the suspension first, then make a final wheel/tire decision?

I have also given thought to tidying up the bumpers and removing the reflectors. That might be further down on the list, timing wise, but considered for sure. I acknowledge that ‘73 US bumpers just aren’t as attractive as earlier/ Euro bumpers. At the very least I’m considering the ‘71-72 overriders in front that are squared off and not pointy. My search prioritized a rust-free, unmolested body/chassis to avoid huge remediation costs. Trim issues are much more manageable.

I’m fortunate to have found a Coupe with crisp style lines and excellent gaps - thanks for noticing! The only body issue found at time of repaint was a “baseball sized area” just behind the passenger door that showed evidence of a dent having been “pulled” and repaired, which was then sorted to modern bodywork standards.
 
I see and value your points. That (your?) Coupe is gorgeous! What is the width of the 14” Alpina wheel? I’m guessing 7” if it supports a 205 section width tire.

Would it make sense to change the suspension first, then make a final wheel/tire decision?

I have also given thought to tidying up the bumpers and removing the reflectors. That might be further down on the list, timing wise, but considered for sure. I acknowledge that ‘73 US bumpers just aren’t as attractive as earlier/ Euro bumpers. At the very least I’m considering the ‘71-72 overriders in front that are squared off and not pointy. My search prioritized a rust-free, unmolested body/chassis to avoid huge remediation costs. Trim issues are much more manageable.

I’m fortunate to have found a Coupe with crisp style lines and excellent gaps - thanks for noticing! The only body issue found at time of repaint was a “baseball sized area” just behind the passenger door that showed evidence of a dent having been “pulled” and repaired, which was then sorted to modern bodywork standards.

thanks
14” alpinas are 7J yes and tyres are 205/70

it makes sense to start with suspension, keep tyres and check

my way was that, I started with stock rims and 195/70

changed suspension,

bilsteins B6, CN springs, front sway bar to 22,5 i recall, rear to 19
 
I see and value your points. That (your?) Coupe is gorgeous! What is the width of the 14” Alpina wheel? I’m guessing 7” if it supports a 205 section width tire.

Would it make sense to change the suspension first, then make a final wheel/tire decision?

I have also given thought to tidying up the bumpers and removing the reflectors. That might be further down on the list, timing wise, but considered for sure. I acknowledge that ‘73 US bumpers just aren’t as attractive as earlier/ Euro bumpers. At the very least I’m considering the ‘71-72 overriders in front that are squared off and not pointy. My search prioritized a rust-free, unmolested body/chassis to avoid huge remediation costs. Trim issues are much more manageable.

I’m fortunate to have found a Coupe with crisp style lines and excellent gaps - thanks for noticing! The only body issue found at time of repaint was a “baseball sized area” just behind the passenger door that showed evidence of a dent having been “pulled” and repaired, which was then sorted to modern bodywork standards.

some ideas,

 
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