New to BMW CS and seeking help

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SohelB

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Hi All

Recently acquired a '73 CSA (haven't told the wife yet!!), sound bodywork and engine, but the brakes, electrics and interior need work. I'll put some pictures up once I've taken a few.

Anyway thought I'd start with the electrics:
1. Sorted out the wipers - luckily not the motor, just a seized assembly, and that's as far as I got.

2. Problem with the headlights, high beam comes on with the dipped lights and then get brighter once the highs are switched on, any ideas? I'll incorporate the relayed dipped lights upgrade that some of you have already made, once I get to the bottom of this problem.

3. Power windows not working, fuses OK, no power at the switches but the motors are good, oh and the power sunroof doesn't work either.

4. Original horns not working, PO wired a new horn to a new sprung toggle switch, are the originals serviceable, they look as though they can be taken apart.

Any suggestions would be gratefully received
 
3. Look for circuit breakers under dash on right side of steering wheel if your 73 was built after March '73. If it is a later 73 windows only work with driver door open if ignition is off.

2. Check the column mounted switch, yellow is dipped (low) beam, white is high beam. High beam has a relay, low does not. You could disconnect the wire at the relay and see what happens. Wires could be shorting due to a break or melted together in the harness along the engine bay as well, would need to open up the tape on the harness to check.

Chris
 
Also, check the ground connections. The horn and head lights each have a ground wire screwed to the front two corners behind the turn signal lens . Access via the headlight port or remove the front grill. I had the same problem with my horns when I first picked up the car - especially if it has been sitting a while. Same with the window motors. There is a ground wire screwed to the inside of the 'A' pillar. You will have to remove the kick panels to access. There is also an important ground wire connection under the trunk boards into the divider frame between the fuel tank and spare tire well (rear lights mostly).

Good luck and have fun with your new purchase.
 
hello welcome !

yes, good advises over here, take your time to check as much as you can, if you go little by little disassembling the front grilles, and the headlights openings on top, and removing the battery,... you can easily access a great extent of the cables that are involved in this issue, that if the solution does not come from them, at least you would have checked them for future issues, or to set a known basis for your car behaviour

regards
 
5. If you can avoid telling the wife for one week it's no longer new and you're off the hook... at least that's the rule in my house (it works both ways unfortunately).
 
Update on the electrics

Guys thanks for all the good advice! I finally got around to checking out the suggestions received.

The lights are now all good, after cleaning the contacts on the dipper switch. I've also added a relay to the dipped lights. :)

Electric windows - motors all good although the rear windows are stuck. I used a direct feed to check the motors. I don't have the circuit breakers, and theres no power to the switches, continuity between switches and fuses 8 & 9 is good, but there is no power at the fuses. I think the feed comes from the power shedding relay, can anyone shed any light on this (no pun intended).

Sunroof - still on the to do list
 
Yes, should come from load shedding relay. Same fuse path feeds the heater blower in principle, does the blower work?
 
The motors can get stuck and with just the right amount of brute force become unstuck :)

I had the same issue on one and after some nudging it came loose and has been working since.

There are threads about it here.

Johan
 
Blower and heated rear window not working either, I'll have invest in a new load shedding relay, anyone know where I can purchase one, or a modern alternative
 
I would examine it first, could be that it is not getting ground or the signal from the key switch. Is your wiring pristine or tampered by the proverbial PO?
 
Checked the relay for clicking, appeared dead. So proceded to take off the rectangular metal cover, the relay is definitely shot, all rusted inside and the contacts bent. So will need to source a new one.

Problem is that all the printed details are have long since vanished, so no idea as to part number or rating. Can only just make out that it was made by Hella.

Does anyone know where I can source one ar details for an alternative?
 
try

try realoem.com for your part number then there are several online options to order
 
A relay is pretty much just a relay, with 85, 86, 87 and 30 terminals. They do have varying amperage ratings, so a check with a parts list may be useful there. Heck I have a bag of old ones that I'll probably never use, roached from this or that old bimmer as it went to its rest.

Hmm the overlords allow me to use "roached" but kill of the first four letters by which I refer to the loathsome bug. Big Brother is indeed watching.
 
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