newbie questions - squeak and fuel opinion

dunromin

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I have been experiencing a slight squeeking noise from the front drivers side. It is only at sub 40kph and when the wheel is straight or turning left. As soon as i turn the wheel the least bit right it goes away.
Any diagnosis from past experience would be appreciated.

Also...might be a stupid question but type of fuel do you all prefer/does your car prefer. I have a 73 3.0csi and there is a noticable difference in performance with Premium fuel. Any opinions?
 

jhjacobs

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The squeaking sounds like a brake pad. The right turn pushes it back away from the rotor just a tad. It may be nothing but you may have a sticky caliper.

These cars have fairly high compression and they want premium (or better) fuel in most cases.
 

Honolulu

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Hmmm

jhjacobs is a real smart guy, but I differ on the fuel matter.

You force me to go to the Blue Books for compression ratio data. Here it is... 2.5 liter, 2.8 and 3.0 are 9:1. Injected motors and CSL 9.5:1 except 9:1 with L-jet, 3.3 motors 9:1.

Hmmm, I thought the 2.8s were higher compression.... Tony?

BMW used piston crown configuration to change compression ratios in Big Six motors so the same heads fit all coupe engines regardless of displacement.

Anyway, I run 87 octane in my 3.0 CS, always have and probably always will. Here in Hawaii it costs about $3.35 a gallon, dammit let's not start another gas cost thread. I will not run higher octane unless there is a cost-effective benefit. Remember, octane is solely, only a measure of knock resistance. It doesn't give you better mileage and it doesn't make your exhaust smell sweeter.

Higher octane gas actually has less energy per gallon, but IF AND ONLY IF your car is equipeed to take advantage of it (knock sensor cars only) or if you have higher than about 9.3 compression, higher octane gas MIGHT be cost-effective.

Here in Hawaii, all gas sold is Top Tier rated and thus meets BMW and other major manufacturers requirements for quality. Do your own research for more info on the Top Tier rating and whether what you buy is so rated.
 

jhjacobs

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Honolulu - thanks for the undeserved compliment....

The data I have on compression ratio vs. octane is:

Normally Aspirated w/ Carbs (FI can go at least 0.5 higher):
96 octane - 9:1 CR max, standard cams only
97 octane - 9.6:1 CR with fast street cams; 10:1 CR w/ standard cams
98 octane - 11.5:1 CR with any cams

This specifies the maximum useful octane - not the minimum. It is probably also using the old octane formula with is about 2 pts higher than the current R+M/2 method.

I would generally agree with what you said. Octane is mainly about stopping pre-ignition and knock (rapid burning). However, I will alway run high octane in my 3.0cs because I don't like knocking and using the factory timing levels on my M30 I get knocking with regular (then again, I often run my timing a few degrees advanced). There is a simple way to correct this problem. Basically you can retard the timing a few degrees and the knocking will stop (but you will loose some power / throttle response). You can also get some knock resistance by using a lower temperature thermostat and cooler spark plugs.
 

MMercury

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Split the difference

I rebuilt my e9 with 10:1 compression pistons. I gambled that higher octane fuels would become the norm, especially considering what appeared to be a swing by some manufacturers to suggested use, e.g., Porsche. I did not bet wisely.

For the most part, I agree with Honolulu. I rebuilt my e9 with 10:1 compression. The engine runs just fine on just about anything put in the tank - unless I decide to push things or if I choose to drive hilly terrain. I have little problem adjusting the ol' Djet manifold pressure sensor, etc. and retarding the timing a bit to avoid the inevitable pinging on full throttle. Unfortunately, this degrades some of the driving pleasure. And, if I use the coupe to commute to work in heavy traffic (which is happening less and less - been rear ended twice), it matters little.

As a compromise, I leave the engine tuned to operate on higher octane and go easy on things. However, when in the mood, I will fill with the higher number or add octane booster (which I keep in the trunk). I have the same issue with a Pontiac 455 S.D. engine, which, unfortunately, is even more demanding or less understanding than the e9. As much as I enjoy the pleasure of driving both cars, circumstances are making it not as easy as it once was. Aside from adding octane booster or filling up with higher octane fuels, there is another possibility - water injection. My former neighbor did this with several of his vehicles. He had the advantage of having worked on piston driven aircraft, which is what motivated him. As I recall, kits were available for carburetted engines from J.C. Whitney, although I have no personal experience.

Another neighbor pointed out that his newest Honda runs 10.5/1 compression on regular grade fuel. While I am not familiar with the setup or whether a knock sensor is employed, the general literature suggests the variable valve timing is the accommodating feature.
 
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