No power windows right side

[alee]

Windows inoperable on passenger side of car, front & rear. Switch at rear seat does not operate window eaither. Circuit breakers are good and not popped. Swapped breakers; no change. Where do I look?

 

[Malc]

Fuses
Where the wires go into the door
connections at the motors inside the door
the switches

Multimeter very handy for tracking down possible breaks or dodgy components

Careful and methodical tracing of the circuit is the best bet
Good luck
Malc

 

[bengal taiga]

erratic electric window lifts

Don't overlook the obvious. Before you start tearing into things, and after you have checked the fuse buss, try to move the window lift by turning the motor manually with your fingers. I have had numerous experiences where the old rubber "stops" soften and stick or become glued so that they prevent the window lift from moving.

Secondarily, I would not be surprised to learn that you have some corrosion on the switches (which is something I have encountered - especially on the early switches!).

Good luck and please tell us about your successful resolution.

 

[alee]

Wondering if there is a common connection powering the three switches for the right side of the car ( two on console to right front & rear window; switch at back seat for right rear window ). All were working fine one day; next day nothing for right side. http://verticasino.net/

 

[RIQUE]

I had a similar experience. All switches and breakers were OK. Drove me nuts. Check if when you activate the switch you get 12V at the window motor. If you do, you have two options. 1. Motor is burnt or most likely stuck. Mine where stuck, so I removed them and replaced all the nasty old grease that had turned into a thick goo. Happened to both front and rear right motors. Enrique

 

[jhjacobs]

I am not familiar with the schematic for the models with breakers. However, on the fuse models (your could have fuses too), the left and right side circuits are complete separate and separately fused. It could be that there are fuses in addition to the breakers. Since both windows don't work and you have swapped the breakers the problem is either the wire from the breaker to the switches in the console or the power feed wire to the breaker. With the ignition on you should see 12 volts on both breaker connections. If this is the case then, with the ignition off, you might try popping the passenger side switches out (you should be able to unzip the shift boot and get a finger in below them and push up). If you turn the ignition back on you should see 12 volts on both the connectors that have two wires (on on each switch). Not much else left at this point.

In the non-breaker models there is another potential problem source that would affect one side and it may be the same for the breaker models. The windows use fuses 8 and 9 respectively. Power is feed into fuse 9 from the load shed relay and it is then daisy chained to fuse 8 (this detail is missing on my schematics). If this daisy chain connect was bad one side would not operate. This will show up on the first test I describe (voltage at breakers).

PM or email if you want more troubleshooting assistance.

 

[gazzol]

Make sure that you are getting 12V at the motor (you most likely will be) if you are then as Rique said the motor will be stuck. If you have the motor with the black plastic cover it is very common for these to stick after long periods of non-use.