chope97
Well-Known Member
I will be changing the oil in both my e3's in 25. I have used synthetic oll forever should I look for oil with Zinc in it? Also I am thinking of switching to spin on oil filters are there any down side to this? Thanks
Are u racing that old car?
if not, relax use the right specs oil
preferably not 100% synth, seals suffer
Castrol semi synth 10w 40 works for me, no idea of zinc content,
better change regularly or more frequently,
better a normal oil changed half period that a super expensive one changed double time
if not, relax use the right specs oil
preferably not 100% synth, seals suffer
Castrol semi synth 10w 40 works for me, no idea of zinc content,
better change regularly or more frequently,
better a normal oil changed half period that a super expensive one changed double time
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Valvoline VR1 20w50 has zinc
Baikallackierung
Well-Known Member
I have been using Valvoline Premium Blue One Solution 15W40 with great results, changing at 3K intervals. I live in a cooler climate so it might not be thick enough in hot places. Tractor supply carries it.
jmackro
Well-Known Member
Castrol GTX Classic is another oil from a mainstream supplier that contains zinc.
I definitely agree with that, especially on a carbureted car where carbon deposits get into the oil.
DeQuincey said:
I definitely agree with that, especially on a carbureted car where carbon deposits get into the oil.
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e30austin
Member
yes, VR-1 Racing has great zinc levels and is a quality motor oil. i also like Total Racing 20w50 for these old cars.
side note: generally only oils sold as "racing" oils will have elevated levels of zinc.
A
(likes to change oil once a year/every 3000 miles)
chope97
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your responses, just for a bit of context, 71 has a 3.3 from an 80's 755 or 533. It was converted from automated to a 5 speed before I got it. I have had it 20 years, a large part of those years it sat with front end damage on drivers side that pushed radiator support into engine. It has been about 10 years since I got that fixed and having been driving it. I have always used synthetic in it. I have been using synthetic oil in all my vehicles since the 70's when it was just Amsoil. My 73 I have owned since 2017 it has a 3.0 liter with an automatic. The auto seems to be out of a later e12, the gear shift is to the left on the console. Don't know it history. I probably put less that a 1000 miles on each car a year. Both are driving projects.
I have 3 cases of VR1 20/50 in my garage if that says anything.
Rob
Are you using that in your E24? I have been running VR1 in the E9 and GTX in the E24.
I want to use VR1 in both.
Thx,
Dan
VR1 20w-50 goes in all my "vintage" cars including the '88 535i e28.
Ed Z
Ed Z
Amazon has VR1 for very cheap (compared to box auto retailers here in SF). The 3 pack of 5qt bottles is .15 cents per oz w free delivery.
Dan, Yessir it goes into the Bavaria, 3.0cs, 635 and M6.
Part of the reason I have 3 cases is that Amazon made an error ( 2 years ago) and listed the case at $25 instead of $52. Typo I guess but I jumped on it and they honored it.
I don't drive the cars enough so I figured the cycle for oil change would be the same for me, synthetic or not. I change based on time more so than miles.
Part of the reason I have 3 cases is that Amazon made an error ( 2 years ago) and listed the case at $25 instead of $52. Typo I guess but I jumped on it and they honored it.
I don't drive the cars enough so I figured the cycle for oil change would be the same for me, synthetic or not. I change based on time more so than miles.
chope97
Well-Known Member
They also make a synthetic version $10.99 a quart on line
FWIW - I have used Mob 1 15W-50 in my older BMW's (and other cars) since the early 1980's...
No leaks. No engine issues - on the odd occasion I have had to an oil change with non synthetic... I can tell the difference as the engines don't idle as smoothly (and do so at a slightly lower RPM on non synthetic).
For my regular cars - I also use full synthetic Mob 1 (or Delvac 1) on them all - and no issues there either - for now... 1.5 million miles or so all told.
I use 5W-40 in the E38, Porsche and F250 (same oil - Delvac 1 or TDT 5W-40). The M62 in my E38 has nearly 250,000 miles now and is running great. The M60 in my earlier E38 had 240k on it when I sold it (engine was great - just didn't need two 7-series cars).
The old wives tail about synthetic's causing leaking is just that - old wives tail. The oil formulations now are different than they used to be and do not have the issues that they did when synthetics first came out (in the late 1970's). My garage floor is now and always has been totally dry - for now 35 years.
Full dislosure - my family has been a Mobil dealer since the early 1980's. Originally, when we were starting with them, we had a hard time selling it (back then) as it was - and still is - more expensive than the regular oil. We had two pallets worth of oil sitting in the warehouse for a couple of years that my dad, said - seems we can't sell it. Lets use it ourselves. I then started putting in in all our family vehicles and some of the trucks (those that could use what we had). I have been sold on it ever since. Even my dad acknowledged it was very much worth it. Worked fantastic for us and continues to do so (even though when Exxon bought Mobil some time ago - the formulation of all the M1 oils changed to be more in line with what Exxon was doing).
YMMV as there are several decent motor oils out there - I just favor Mobil...
No leaks. No engine issues - on the odd occasion I have had to an oil change with non synthetic... I can tell the difference as the engines don't idle as smoothly (and do so at a slightly lower RPM on non synthetic).
For my regular cars - I also use full synthetic Mob 1 (or Delvac 1) on them all - and no issues there either - for now... 1.5 million miles or so all told.
I use 5W-40 in the E38, Porsche and F250 (same oil - Delvac 1 or TDT 5W-40). The M62 in my E38 has nearly 250,000 miles now and is running great. The M60 in my earlier E38 had 240k on it when I sold it (engine was great - just didn't need two 7-series cars).
The old wives tail about synthetic's causing leaking is just that - old wives tail. The oil formulations now are different than they used to be and do not have the issues that they did when synthetics first came out (in the late 1970's). My garage floor is now and always has been totally dry - for now 35 years.
Full dislosure - my family has been a Mobil dealer since the early 1980's. Originally, when we were starting with them, we had a hard time selling it (back then) as it was - and still is - more expensive than the regular oil. We had two pallets worth of oil sitting in the warehouse for a couple of years that my dad, said - seems we can't sell it. Lets use it ourselves. I then started putting in in all our family vehicles and some of the trucks (those that could use what we had). I have been sold on it ever since. Even my dad acknowledged it was very much worth it. Worked fantastic for us and continues to do so (even though when Exxon bought Mobil some time ago - the formulation of all the M1 oils changed to be more in line with what Exxon was doing).
YMMV as there are several decent motor oils out there - I just favor Mobil...
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I started with VR1 20W50 high zinc, but my last two changes have been VR1 full synthetic 20W50 which also has the high zinc content.. There have been no leaks with the synthetic, which is purple
I drive the Coupe 3-5K miles yearly, with oil changes at 3K.
The synthetic purple is almost twice as expensive as the amber oil. But our cars are worth it.
I drive the Coupe 3-5K miles yearly, with oil changes at 3K.
The synthetic purple is almost twice as expensive as the amber oil. But our cars are worth it.
Same for me, pretty much Mobil 1 full synthetic in everything I own.FWIW - I have used Mob 1 15W-50 in my older BMW's (and other cars) since the early 1980's...
No leaks. No engine issues - on the odd occasion I have had to an oil change with non synthetic... I can tell the difference as the engines don't idle as smoothly (and do so at a slightly lower RPM on non synthetic).
For my regular cars - I also use full synthetic Mob 1 (or Delvac 1) on then all - and no issues there either - for now... 1.5 million miles or so all told.
I use 5W-40 in the E38, Porsche and F250 (same oil - Delvac 1 or TDT 5W-40). The M62 in my E38 has nearly 250,000 miles now and is running great. The M60 in my earlier E38 had 240k on it when I sold it (engine was great - just didn't need two 7-series cars).
The old wives tail about synthetic's causing leaking is just that - old wives tail. The oil formulations now are different than they used to be and do not have the issues that they did when synthetics first came out (in the late 1970's). My garage floor is now and always has been totally dry - for now 35 years.
Full dislosure - my family has been a Mobil dealer since the early 1980's. Originallly, when we were starting with them, we had a hard time selling it (back then) as it was - and still is - more expensive than the regular oil. We had two pallets worth of oil sitting in the warehouse for a couple of years that my dad, said - seems we can't sell it. Lets use it ourselves. I then started putting in in all our family vehicles and some of the trucks (those that could use what we had). I have been sold on it ever since. Even my dad acknowledged it was very much worth it. Worked fantastic for us and continues to do so (even though when Exxon bought Mobil some time ago - the formulation of all the M1 oils changed to be more in line with what Exxon was doing).
YMMV as there are several decent motor oils out there - I just favor Mobil...
Zinc content is always a hot topic in classic Mini circles with engine and trans oil shared. I came across the following explanation that made things a bit more clear. I've always used a good quality 20W/50 with 1200ppm zddp content.
www.duckhams.com
ZDDP – What Does It All Mean? - Duckhams
As one of the biggest and most mis-understood buzzwords regarding oils in classic cars, ZDDP(or Zinc DialkylDithiophophate, to give it’s full chemical name) has been surrounded by a lot of mythology and mis-information. At Duckhams we have optimised our ZDDP content for historic vehicles, but...
www.duckhams.com
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Good information. Credibility would be improved by not misspelling the name right out of the gateZinc content is always a hot topic in classic Mini circles with engine and trans oil shared. I came across the following explanation that made things a bit more clear. I've always used a good quality 20W/50 with 1200ppm zddp content.
ZDDP – What Does It All Mean? - Duckhams
As one of the biggest and most mis-understood buzzwords regarding oils in classic cars, ZDDP(or Zinc DialkylDithiophophate, to give it’s full chemical name) has been surrounded by a lot of mythology and mis-information. At Duckhams we have optimised our ZDDP content for historic vehicles, but...