Ooo... Duck

[bimmerboy73]

Anyone have experience replacing the duck gasket and o-ring gasket on the m30? Is it something that can be done with the motor in? Took the car for a quick spin - first one in 4 years - and discovered a pretty steady oil leak from somewhere on the back of the block ( at the rate of about a drop a minute... maybe more). I did a quick inspection and all i can tell is that its not coming from the valve cover or head gasket (at least not left and right). i did replace the oil temp sending unit when i installed the new gauge cluster but it looks pretty dry in and around the mounting hole. Reaching my fingers around the back of the block did turn up some oil, hence the inquiry. Thinking they may have just deteriorated as a result of sitting for so long...

Thanks in advance!

Richard

 

[Ohmess]

Isn't the duck gasket a seal for coolant?

 

[bimmerboy73]

sounds right but not 100% sure. I do know the o ring is under it so doing one = doing both.

 

[bdigel]

No ,the duck gasket seal's oil
yes it can be done in the car although it will test your patience

 

[Stevehose]

There is also a little copper crush washer that goes on a particular bolt, was this installed correctly?

 

[deQuincey]

There is also a little copper crush washer that goes on a particular bolt, was this installed correctly?

this is crucial, if you do not put this ring you will have leaks for sure

i would chek this first, in my engine thread yOu can see it placed in the right place, that would help identifying where it goes, it is only one

if it is not there, you remove only one bolt you put the sealing ring and you are done, it is a ring with a rubber seal inside

 

[bimmerboy73]

There is also a little copper crush washer that goes on a particular bolt, was this installed correctly?

Steve,

Never had a problem with it until start-up yesterday. My guess is that it just dried up and maybe cracked. Hoping against hope that running the motor will rejuvenate the seal, whichever it is (i know, illogical). The leak did get progressively better as the engine warmed today and was about 1/4 the rate it was at first start.

 

[bimmerboy73]

this is crucial, if you do not put this ring you will have leaks for sure

i would chek this first, in my engine thread yOu can see it placed in the right place, that would help identifying where it goes, it is only one

if it is not there, you remove only one bolt you put the sealing ring and you are done, it is a ring with a rubber seal inside

J,

good to know. Any special tools required? Its a pretty tight space to work in...

R

 

[sfdon]

If you remove the tranny support and loosen the center bearing bolts you can jack the back of the tranny up and double your work space. Special seal goes at 3:00.

 

[bimmerboy73]

If you remove the tranny support and loosen the center bearing bolts you can jack the back of the tranny up and double your work space. Special seal goes at 3:00.

smart.

 

[waynesie]

Did you change oil recently?
The new oil does not have additives to keep older seals flexible, you have to buy the high milage oil for that now. Most new oil also has no zinc which these cam/slippers really need.

 

[Luis A.]

There is also a little copper crush washer that goes on a particular bolt, was this installed correctly?

Right idea but its not a copper crush washer but a sealing washer that has an integrated rubber seal. PN 12110002735

You can see it at 3 o'clock as Don mentioned. Don't go overboard with tightening the gasket or it will squish/crack.

 

[stphers]

Duck

Removing the plate and reinstalling is the easy part, what is really a b**ch is getting the head clean from the old gasket, that's fun

Rick

 

[bimmerboy73]

false alarm. the leak was coming from the back side of the new oil pressure/temp sender i installed last year. Forgot to tighten the temp sender properly...