Organization during engine rebuild

Luis A.

Luis A.

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Although I've rebuilt a couple of engines in the past, I've never sent out hardware for replating so keeping track of which bolt, nut and screw goes where was simple.

For my upcoming rebuild, I'm planning on sending out all the engine hardware for replating so it will get all mixed up. For putting it all back where it came from, I don't really want to only go by the parts diagrams since I don't trust that they are 100% accurate when it comes to bolts/hardware sizes. So, short of measuring every bolt as it comes out and writing it down on a diagram or photo, what suggestions do you guys have?
 
this worked fine for me:

i have just done it 2 months ago (not replating, but engine job, anyway I replaced every single nut and bolt with fresh new yellow bicoated material, so this advise could be nice)

I used the w&n diagrams marking each set of bolts in each diagram and putting everything (the paper and the bolts) in a transparent plastic bag, and I marked the bag with an adhesive paper in which i stated where it goes: i.e. (Nuts and bolts from "gear box bellhousing" to "engine")
I included the torque specs for each bolt in the paper too.

I put these bags altogether in a cardboard box

It worked fine, I made no mistakes, and the re-assembly was quick and straightforward

remark: I bought always a 10% additional parts (nuts, bolts, washers,...), that was wise, specially in the case of the washers (you know how easy do they fell down in the very worst moment...)
 
Use plastic bags, and photograph everything. I guess once it gets to the plater they throw it all in a pile. For bead blasting nuts and bolts before plating, strings all the nuts and washers together with some wire. The length of the various bolts will be tricky to keep track of. . I hope to be doing a similar procedure on mine this winter and am either going to buy new nuts and bolts or get the old ones refinished. De Quincey, where did you source the new hardware? And was it basically identical to what you removed?
 
That's how I've done it in the past, write where they come from, with or without a diagram and throw them in a baggie, but like Bob said, they go to the plater all together in a pile and come back the same way...

I guess I will just have to measure and write down the size of every single bolt. Printing the W&N diagrams to write it on is a good idea since they are so clear. It just seems so tedious...

I thought about videoing and describing each bolt as it comes without writing anything down but playing it back and stopping and starting might be slower than reading from annotated diagrams.
 
Nicad said:
De Quincey, where did you source the new hardware? And was it basically identical to what you removed?
Click to expand...

hello Nicad,

being a major industrial area, there are (still) good sources for nuts, bolts and washers in my home town

so in my case a local industrial warehouse was the answer

yellow bolts (partly threaded) in all specs from 8.8 to 10.9, and from M6 till M12, bended washers, and mechanical self locking nuts (the ones for high temp, like in the exhaust assemblies),

the same sizes, specs ,... same as original

the only ones that i bought in the bmw dealer were those special bolts with hot melting loctite on them (like the ones on the clutch plate, or those of the flywheel assemblies )

i fact i changed ALL the bolts, nuts and washers,

incidentally i don`t think plating old bolts is a good idea, some of the bolts should be used only once (as it is stated in the blue books !), ...ok, I understand that probably is not so easy for everyone

i will be happy to help if you need...
 
Bob,

I forgot to mention that a source of metric hardware in the sizes and finishes we need can be found at www.belmetric.com Also many of the OEM hoses and other useful bits. I will buy from them only the stuff that I can't have repalted since I'd like to keep all the original, properly imprinted, hardware.
 
I have used Belmetric as well, great online catalog. When you call they ask if you have an account but it is not needed, they are happy to fill orders. Just don't try to get five of this and five of that, get 20 or more, you always need more. In the case of nuts like the M8 they have them in bags of 100, makes sense for washers and wave washers too. They have the reinforced braided cloth booster vacuum hose as well as blue brake reservoir hose.

Chris
 
All of my nuts and bolts went to the plater in a pile. It was not that difficult sorting which goes where. I just spread them on a table when I got them back and sorted them by size I bought some cheap plastic containers at a "storage" type store and they are great for keeping hardware in, and will stack. For a quality job, do not sand blast or bead blast the nuts and bolts. Let the plater clean them in acid. I had every nut and bolt in my car re plated and can tell you the difference in quality between blasted and non blasted is night and day difference. I was lucky to find a plater that did yellow cadmium plating rather than zinc and most of my bolts and brackets look like new factory. Purists, please remember that if you buy replacement bolts, the head stampings will not be the same as original and if you are trying to do a proper restoration, that will give you away. For that reason, I did buy the needed original bolts from the dealer. Also, please note, bolts that come from the dealer may or may not be already plated, so wait til you have everything in hand before going to the plater.
 
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Hi Luis,

The plater I used in Phoenix has disapeared. I do know there is a good plater in Tucson that does cadmium. You can probably google chrome plating in Tucson and find him. If not let me know and I will see what I come up with. My guess is your best bet will be in the mid west as EPA restrictions are real tough on cadmium in the west. I bought a guys parts hoard out for six series parts and got at least 60-70 pounds of replated hardware. It is so nice, I am switching out the stuff I had plated, for them. If you have a rough time finding someone, let me know and I will see what I can run down for you.
 
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