Original coil?
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Blue coil came later and is internally resisted. Ours came with black coil requiring 0.8 ohm ballast resistor. The replacement for the black coil is now the silver or red coil which need a 1.8 ohm resistor.
Go red coil and 1.8ohm resistor
blue or not blue is a limited way of describing a coil
there are blue bosch coils internally resisted and other blue bosch coils not internally resisted like the ones for tdz systems
reference numbers are key
it will be also good to check your actual setup in detail, you might have odd things installed that might change from original
i would recommend giving details of what you are trying to do there, pictures of the steup and a close inspection of the cables present
what you have now and what you want to achieve would be sensible matter
a bad advice could be rooted on a non detailed description, and you might fry your car alone and hopeless
IMHO
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Gracias!
My coil went bad... and I need to change it. It was a Bosch with a black body and cream colored top. Now knowing if was original or not, I preferred to ask, in order to get a correct one for my car, which I will soon restore to as close to original as possible (except carbs, maybe).
Victor
thanks if you look to that coil, the bottom will have some letters and numbers like kv127...
so you do not have a resistor ?
you do not have anithing like odd cables to odd boxes, like tdz, hall effect ,...
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Thanks!
The numbers in my Bosch black with tan colored top coil:
0 221 119 017
422
KW 12V
I am attaching pics of it, and how it is installed... and not easily viewable is a brand new Bosch Condensor.
The numbers in my Bosch black with tan colored top coil:
0 221 119 017
422
KW 12V
I am attaching pics of it, and how it is installed... and not easily viewable is a brand new Bosch Condensor.
Attachments
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thanks,
well i can see two different black coils in your pics, one in your hands and other installed,
there are plenty of things around your coil, ac filter, some silver boxes, and what seems to be a resistor to avoid radio inteferences, but i can not see a formal resistor
first question might be why to change the coil, it looks very nice, and new coils are not the same thing as old ones, and the story of the two coils might be good to hear too, i saw that you mentioned that coil went bad, did you measured resistance on it ?
i am not aginst replacing the coil, just a word of advice on available coils
see here the drawing so you can indentify the original setup and thus trace your cables and see what is really there
at the coil 1 is negative and 15 is positive, you can see the resistor at the 15
well i can see two different black coils in your pics, one in your hands and other installed,
there are plenty of things around your coil, ac filter, some silver boxes, and what seems to be a resistor to avoid radio inteferences, but i can not see a formal resistor
first question might be why to change the coil, it looks very nice, and new coils are not the same thing as old ones, and the story of the two coils might be good to hear too, i saw that you mentioned that coil went bad, did you measured resistance on it ?
i am not aginst replacing the coil, just a word of advice on available coils
see here the drawing so you can indentify the original setup and thus trace your cables and see what is really there
at the coil 1 is negative and 15 is positive, you can see the resistor at the 15
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see here some info on ignition alternatives, and some more diagrams
(find also that some mantras can be repeated once and again...#2,...but eventually they will not come true, sad that wrong advices are not corrected; no, not all the blue coils are internally resisted)
www.e9coupe.com
(find also that some mantras can be repeated once and again...#2,...but eventually they will not come true, sad that wrong advices are not corrected; no, not all the blue coils are internally resisted)
help, transistorized ignition, original BOSCH
hi, i have just bought an original transistorized ignition system from boschconsists of a electronic box and a coilthis system is intended to keep the points, but having the benefit of avoiding the major intensity of the current to pass through them, permits a better performanceof the spark...
www.e9coupe.com
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see here my setup when it was no tdz, but normal installation, with specific blue coil without external resistor
this specific blue coil is internally resisted
but not all blue coils are like this one
this specific blue coil is internally resisted
but not all blue coils are like this one
an insight on your pic makes me asksome questions,
i can see a green cable coming out from condenser in the distributor wall, but then a black cable goes to the coil at the -1terminal, how and when the green cable becomes black ?
+15 terminal at the coil should have a green cable coming from the clausor switch, where is that cable ? it could have been entering the missing resistor, or maybe the resistor is hidden somewhere, check this please
edit, i can answer my own question, you have a cilindric object (left from the coil) that is the resistor, a odd one, not bosch for sure, youcan see the green cable entering there, and out a brown that is put together with the black-red to the starter motor
i can see a green cable coming out from condenser in the distributor wall, but then a black cable goes to the coil at the -1terminal, how and when the green cable becomes black ?
+15 terminal at the coil should have a green cable coming from the clausor switch, where is that cable ? it could have been entering the missing resistor, or maybe the resistor is hidden somewhere, check this please
edit, i can answer my own question, you have a cilindric object (left from the coil) that is the resistor, a odd one, not bosch for sure, youcan see the green cable entering there, and out a brown that is put together with the black-red to the starter motor
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Thanks, deQuincey!
Sorry... big mistake on my part. I should have mentioned they are two different coils in the pics.
The first coil, the Bosch black and tan top, on my hand in the picture, apparently went bad. It "burned" a condensor, made the car run poorly for a few kilomemters and then didn't allow it to start. My mechanic thought it was the coil, changed it temporarily but then somehow decided it was the condensor, so he changed it, connecting the old coil again and the car worked great for a few kilometers on my way home... that is, the original Bosch tan top coil with a new condensor.
The next day, the car wouldn't start. So, on the phone, my mechanic suggested I should change the coil as it was probably the cause of the new condensor failing. I did, and temporarily used the black coil you see installed on the pics plus another new Bosch condensor. The car is running great now. So, my intention when asking, was to find out how the original coil should be, in order to get a correct looking one and replace the VW coil I installed temporarilly.
I will take more pics so you can see the things with better detail.
So do you have a ballast resistor or not? No ballast resistor will fry a condensor, that's what it's purpose is to prevent. The red coil and 1.8ohm resistor will provide the highest voltage of the stock bosch combos. Ideally you should eliminate points and condensor, parts quality is low these days and so many better options out there that won't ruin the original look if that's something you wish to preserve.
I see no ballast resistor either. That cylindrical object on left of coil is wiring for speed relay and vacuum dashpots, not found on euro coupes.
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Yes, original looks is what I would be striving for.... and from what I understood from some of you, I should have a red coil. If quality of parts is poor these days, I am guessing you mean I should switch to an electronic system, such as Pertronix?
The cylindrical unit on the side of the coil is attached to wires apparently comming from the original harness. No idea if it is a condensor or not. Mechanically illiterate.
These are some more pics of my setup. The car currently works great.
The cylindrical unit on the side of the coil is attached to wires apparently comming from the original harness. No idea if it is a condensor or not. Mechanically illiterate.
These are some more pics of my setup. The car currently works great.
Attachments
Cylinder on side with green wire appears to be a condenser.... maybe I’m wrong.
jmackro
Well-Known Member
I've lost track of where the questions about coils stand. But I have to observe that the un-insulated male-female spade connectors in the lower right hand corner of the photo below scare me. They appear to be close to that braided ground strap, so travelling on a rough road could jostle that hot connector to short to ground.
And is that block behind that bare connection an Un-used resister block?I've lost track of where the questions about coils stand. But I have to observe that the un-insulated male-female spade connectors in the lower right hand corner of the photo below scare me. They appear to be close to that braided ground strap, so travelling on a rough road could jostle that hot connector to short to ground.
