Painting Valve Cover and Air Cleaner Housing
- Thread starter 2800csguy
- Start date
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
paint
I think the same paint for wheels, works for valve covers.
As for the air cleaner housing, someone, somewhere, once posted a rattle can color that supposedly came pretty close. but I forget what that might have been.
I think the same paint for wheels, works for valve covers.
As for the air cleaner housing, someone, somewhere, once posted a rattle can color that supposedly came pretty close. but I forget what that might have been.
blumax
(deceased)
Valve cover and air cleaner or air box
Valve covers were not painted--all were raw aluminum castings. To renew to factory as new--I would suggest a thorough cleaning in a hot tank, dry and then bead blast to restore the correct fresh cast metal appearance. Be sure to get rid of any beads or dust from the inner cover before re-installing.
Check with CoupeKing or Carl Nelson for guidance on original paint color for airbox.
Valve covers were not painted--all were raw aluminum castings. To renew to factory as new--I would suggest a thorough cleaning in a hot tank, dry and then bead blast to restore the correct fresh cast metal appearance. Be sure to get rid of any beads or dust from the inner cover before re-installing.
Check with CoupeKing or Carl Nelson for guidance on original paint color for airbox.
m_thompson
Well-Known Member
Rustoleum Smoke Grey is pretty close to the original color.
I tried to get a paint spec for the air cleaner housing from Historisches Archiv but didn't have any luck. I intend to send the cover out for color matching; www.paintscratch.com charges $35 for exact hand matching and $24.95 for a 12.5 oz. spray can.
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
blumax might be right
But I have a hard time imagining a raw casting not getting pretty well oxidized over the years.
I want to believe there is some kind of sealant that will keep "fresh" aluminum looking fresh. I guess that given the surface texture of the casting, without some smoothing it will accumulate crud readily in all the tiny nooks and crannies. Thus, either it will need smoothing to remove the nooks, or a filler/sealer/paint to achieve the same smoothing.
Again, Wurth wheel paint or Krylon Dull Aluminum (is it still available?) would be my approach. Possibly you can consult with knowledgeable Mercedes painters, I understand their wheel paint code is available.
I've always thought M-B has some of the nicest shades of silver around. Maybe it's that their cars lend themselves to that color. Silver arrows, very nice though some of their recent stuff is you-glee.
But I have a hard time imagining a raw casting not getting pretty well oxidized over the years.
I want to believe there is some kind of sealant that will keep "fresh" aluminum looking fresh. I guess that given the surface texture of the casting, without some smoothing it will accumulate crud readily in all the tiny nooks and crannies. Thus, either it will need smoothing to remove the nooks, or a filler/sealer/paint to achieve the same smoothing.
Again, Wurth wheel paint or Krylon Dull Aluminum (is it still available?) would be my approach. Possibly you can consult with knowledgeable Mercedes painters, I understand their wheel paint code is available.
I've always thought M-B has some of the nicest shades of silver around. Maybe it's that their cars lend themselves to that color. Silver arrows, very nice though some of their recent stuff is you-glee.
MichaelP
Well-Known Member
m_thompson said:
Second that. There was a protracted thread on this topic on the CSR a few years ago and that was the result. The air cleaner came in two different colors over the years, most commonly a light gray -- the Rustoleum color mentioned above, not the metallic Dull Aluminum. There was also an olive greenish color that appeared on some early coupes. The gray was better looking to my eye.
Valve covers: Until BMW's Motorsport motors came along, BMW valve covers were bare castings. The bare casting seems to oxidize when a car or pulled motor is left to sit for long periods. Heat and motor oil that inevitably gets sprayed around the engine bay keeps oxidation to a minimum. Fine (000 to 0000) steel wool will generally remove it. My experience with painted valve covers isn't good. The paint will stick for a few years, but it eventually removes itself. The PO of our 535is did a very nice black, crinkle coat job on that car's M30 cover, but it started flaking after a few years. Even the black crinkle paint that BMW used on our S14's valve cover flaked off in a nasty way. I've seen better results with powder coating, but (cue Rosanna Rosannadanna voice) "eh, why bother?"
blumax
(deceased)
Preparing aluminum parts for enhanced cosmetic appearance
For aluminum prepping--especially during restorations or engine re-build--prefer the use of glass beads for bead blasting vs sand blasting as the process with glass beads seems less aggressive--having used same for years on Coupe, Bavaria, and 2002 parts.
Maintaining same over the years is not too difficult in our climate. Michael P. put his finger on good upkeep practices with fine steel wool although I also prefer fine or medium bronze wool along with mineral spirits if there are oily surfaces--as then you don't have rusty particles blooming after freshening.
Must admit--I'm no longer envious of not having four seasons of hot, not so hot, wet, cold, freezing, snow and ice--survived that for about 36 years--and the hot, high humidity summers admittedly create a greater challenge to Coupe ownership and upkeep than our mild, dry (usually) climate we enjoy here in SoCal. (;>)
For aluminum prepping--especially during restorations or engine re-build--prefer the use of glass beads for bead blasting vs sand blasting as the process with glass beads seems less aggressive--having used same for years on Coupe, Bavaria, and 2002 parts.
Maintaining same over the years is not too difficult in our climate. Michael P. put his finger on good upkeep practices with fine steel wool although I also prefer fine or medium bronze wool along with mineral spirits if there are oily surfaces--as then you don't have rusty particles blooming after freshening.
Must admit--I'm no longer envious of not having four seasons of hot, not so hot, wet, cold, freezing, snow and ice--survived that for about 36 years--and the hot, high humidity summers admittedly create a greater challenge to Coupe ownership and upkeep than our mild, dry (usually) climate we enjoy here in SoCal. (;>)
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Aluminum paint
As posted elsewhere, I just got my first experience with cleaning wheels in a blast cabinet. Short version: 40 psi and olivine sand did a very nice job and left the wheels in a dull, almost gray, color.
Now it gets relevant... I had a new can of "aluminum" paint that I thought was the correct stuff. Don't have the make/number right handy, but I shot those four wheels and they ended up really bright. It certainly wasn't Krylon Dull Aluminum #1403 (the paint number assigned by the Krylon website).
Now I'll try find 1403 at Sears, Checker or Ace and re-shoot... maybe... and they'll need a couple coats of clear on top.
Hint for today: a lazy susan makes painting wheels evenly a breeze.
As posted elsewhere, I just got my first experience with cleaning wheels in a blast cabinet. Short version: 40 psi and olivine sand did a very nice job and left the wheels in a dull, almost gray, color.
Now it gets relevant... I had a new can of "aluminum" paint that I thought was the correct stuff. Don't have the make/number right handy, but I shot those four wheels and they ended up really bright. It certainly wasn't Krylon Dull Aluminum #1403 (the paint number assigned by the Krylon website).
Now I'll try find 1403 at Sears, Checker or Ace and re-shoot... maybe... and they'll need a couple coats of clear on top.
Hint for today: a lazy susan makes painting wheels evenly a breeze.