Powdercoat/wrinkle finish

David

David

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Trying to wrap-up round two of my restoration and Im hoping to refinish my steering column with a powdercoat in wrinkle finish. Since these shops seem to keep bankers hours, Ill need to just send in the part and hope for the best. Does anyone have a shop they have used and can recommend ? Anything from San Diego to SFO would be fine.

TIA
 
Trying to wrap-up round two of my restoration and Im hoping to refinish my steering column with a powdercoat in wrinkle finish. Since these shops seem to keep bankers hours, Ill need to just send in the part and hope for the best. Does anyone have a shop they have used and can recommend ? Anything from San Diego to SFO would be fine.

TIA
 
David:

Well, let me reply to your question with another question: How difficult is it to remove the upper part of the steering column shroud? I have had the lower piece off a number of times - that's a piece of cake. But the upper seems to have the ignition switch built into it - is it hard to get it all apart?

I was looking at my shroud the other day, and considering doing this same operation. My black paint is all worn off around the key, and the sun has cooked the paint off the top as well.

Wrinkle finish isn't absolutely correct - the finish on mine is more of a "spatter finish", but wrinkle would look better than part paint, part raw aluminum!

For what it's worth, I use Primos Powercoating on Gothard in Huntington Beach. They do good work, but don't seem that organized - not sure I would be comfortable shipping parts to them.
 
I have considered this task many times. I agree that the project stalls on removing the upper part. Doing just the lower one, will give 2 very different looking parts, which is worse than the worn patches we all seem to have. I agree that it is not wrinke paint, but something different which I haven´t even talked to my good body shop about. Perhaps I should?
 
I have considered this task many times. I agree that the project stalls on removing the upper part. Doing just the lower one, will give 2 very different looking parts, which is worse than the worn patches we all seem to have. I agree that it is not wrinke paint, but something different which I haven´t even talked to my good body shop about. Perhaps I should?
 
Hi
I didn't pull just the top cover off, I had the steering column removed as part of much larger effort. Like yours, the area around the ignition switch was worn off and it looked like hell.

I don't know that I can match the look of the upper and lower. My lower section is plastic. If the finish isn't wrinkle, do you know if there is a specific finish I should ask the shop for ?? This will be my first time having a part powdercoated.

Thanks again.
 
Hi
I didn't pull just the top cover off, I had the steering column removed as part of much larger effort. Like yours, the area around the ignition switch was worn off and it looked like hell.

I don't know that I can match the look of the upper and lower. My lower section is plastic. If the finish isn't wrinkle, do you know if there is a specific finish I should ask the shop for ?? This will be my first time having a part powdercoated.

Thanks again.
 
David said:
If the finish isn't wrinkle, do you know if there is a specific finish I should ask the shop for ??
Click to expand...

My 1970 2088 CS may be different than your car - for example, my lower shroud is definitely pot metal. I would call the finish on my shroud "spatter" or a "pebbled", rather than "wrinkled". However, if you are going with powdercoat, that may be academic, as I am not sure that a spatter finish is available in powdercoat.

I have used a paint called Zolatone that produces a spatter finish. It is a standard architectural product, available from a variety of sources. One is at: http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/zolatone20.aspx?gclid=CLemyOyAgJoCFctL5Qod1jHFFA However, I doubt that Zolatone is as durable as powder coating - it might still wear it away around the ignition switch after a few months of use.

After removing my lower shroud, and looking at all the components attached to the upper shroud, I decided to just leave mine looking crummy.
 
David said:
If the finish isn't wrinkle, do you know if there is a specific finish I should ask the shop for ??
Click to expand...

My 1970 2088 CS may be different than your car - for example, my lower shroud is definitely pot metal. I would call the finish on my shroud "spatter" or a "pebbled", rather than "wrinkled". However, if you are going with powdercoat, that may be academic, as I am not sure that a spatter finish is available in powdercoat.

I have used a paint called Zolatone that produces a spatter finish. It is a standard architectural product, available from a variety of sources. One is at: http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/zolatone20.aspx?gclid=CLemyOyAgJoCFctL5Qod1jHFFA However, I doubt that Zolatone is as durable as powder coating - it might still wear it away around the ignition switch after a few months of use.

After removing my lower shroud, and looking at all the components attached to the upper shroud, I decided to just leave mine looking crummy.
 
I keep the naked ignition key in the lock most of the time, thus nothing will rub off the paint on the lower cover plate.
I have the door key in the glove box, and never lock the car. If somebody wants to enter the car, it´s better that they use the door than pry the chrome, glass, rubber, paint etc with a screwdriver, knife or other tool.
 
I keep the naked ignition key in the lock most of the time, thus nothing will rub off the paint on the lower cover plate.
I have the door key in the glove box, and never lock the car. If somebody wants to enter the car, it´s better that they use the door than pry the chrome, glass, rubber, paint etc with a screwdriver, knife or other tool.
 
We can get these powdercoated in a very similar to new speckle black finish, but have also had good luck refinishing in place when we can't affor to remove the entire column section.
 
We can get these powdercoated in a very similar to new speckle black finish, but have also had good luck refinishing in place when we can't affor to remove the entire column section.
 
I have used Sem texture coating (39853) in the past with very good results.
I used it on the center console (stereo surround) and steering column.
It took a few attempts using different distance and spraying methods but it came out nice. You could use this in place on the upper steering column.
 
I have used Sem texture coating (39853) in the past with very good results.
I used it on the center console (stereo surround) and steering column.
It took a few attempts using different distance and spraying methods but it came out nice. You could use this in place on the upper steering column.
 
Completely removing the upper half of the column cover was never even a consideration for me, but I did remove the lower shroud and dropped the entire column down after removing the four support bolts as part of the dash removal process.

I applied new black crinkle coat to the gauge bezels, but did not mess with the steering column, as I didn't feel the need. (I had to leave a little patina remaining in the interior :) ). However, I see how one could conceivably paint the upper portion with it still attached (just lowered) after masking off everything. Powder coating would be bulletproof, but overkill IMHO.

Incedently, depending how badly the surface is worn and the amount of prep required, I a light coat of black crinkle over the original "fleck finish" is indistiguishable because the original surface irregularities show through the new coat. the following picture of the gauge bezels is not very close up, but you get the idea.
3188455365_58fd50ecf6.jpg
 
Completely removing the upper half of the column cover was never even a consideration for me, but I did remove the lower shroud and dropped the entire column down after removing the four support bolts as part of the dash removal process.

I applied new black crinkle coat to the gauge bezels, but did not mess with the steering column, as I didn't feel the need. (I had to leave a little patina remaining in the interior :) ). However, I see how one could conceivably paint the upper portion with it still attached (just lowered) after masking off everything. Powder coating would be bulletproof, but overkill IMHO.

Incedently, depending how badly the surface is worn and the amount of prep required, I a light coat of black crinkle over the original "fleck finish" is indistiguishable because the original surface irregularities show through the new coat. the following picture of the gauge bezels is not very close up, but you get the idea.
3188455365_58fd50ecf6.jpg
 
If barren just below ignition key area

I second Mario L.'s suggestion--just do it in place--result is almost indistinguishable from original when you use SEM or even a quality no gloss metal paint such as Orlac.

simply spay small quantity into a container and then apply by dabbing it on the bare spot with a Q-tip--when tacky--within a few seconds--dab again with Q-tip to resemble the original texture. Works fine--no dis-assembly needed and finish is very close to original appearance--will be acceptable except by the most anal.
 
If barren just below ignition key area

I second Mario L.'s suggestion--just do it in place--result is almost indistinguishable from original when you use SEM or even a quality no gloss metal paint such as Orlac.

simply spay small quantity into a container and then apply by dabbing it on the bare spot with a Q-tip--when tacky--within a few seconds--dab again with Q-tip to resemble the original texture. Works fine--no dis-assembly needed and finish is very close to original appearance--will be acceptable except by the most anal.
 
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