I was recently told that a good way to preserve the dash wood (other than avoiding all light) was to coat it in bee's wax. Has anybody done this? Thoughts?
Preserving the dash wood
- Thread starter BP1
- Start date
It will smell good....
I use mineral oil, sparingly!! Read that violin wood oil was best but found out it is similar to mineral oil, much easier to find and inexpensive. Been using it for years and believe? it is responsible for preventing new cracks and delamination. Looks terrific.
i use real carnuba wax
As a former second career woodworker any of the solutions mentioned will help keep the wood from drying out and slow the tendency of the finish to crack and craze.
I believe that it was lacquer that was used on the wood in these cars.
Ultra violet light will be what really gets the finish and causes the veneer to lift and crack.
Old English furniture polish in a natural color would also be a good one.
Put it on pretty wet and let it sit a day or so then wipe down with a good soft cloth. Will get it back to the soft semi gloss.
Modern " lacquers" are now two part finishes and dry as hard as an epoxy but have built in inhibitors for UV light.
I believe that it was lacquer that was used on the wood in these cars.
Ultra violet light will be what really gets the finish and causes the veneer to lift and crack.
Old English furniture polish in a natural color would also be a good one.
Put it on pretty wet and let it sit a day or so then wipe down with a good soft cloth. Will get it back to the soft semi gloss.
Modern " lacquers" are now two part finishes and dry as hard as an epoxy but have built in inhibitors for UV light.
Only issue with using oils is difficulty in getting a finish to adhere if that is part of the intended process.
My wood is generally very good but there is some finish lifting at the edges. I have been thinking about putting down a permanent finish first. Rockler woodworking supplies has a variety of finishes (polyurethane etc.) that can be applied with brush or wiped on. Quality of finish is very high.
Otherwise Old English or similar is good but a lacquer finish should be largely non pourous. Guessing it should penetrate at cracks etc. otherwise maybe the wax approach would best as some have UV inhibitors.
My wood is generally very good but there is some finish lifting at the edges. I have been thinking about putting down a permanent finish first. Rockler woodworking supplies has a variety of finishes (polyurethane etc.) that can be applied with brush or wiped on. Quality of finish is very high.
Otherwise Old English or similar is good but a lacquer finish should be largely non pourous. Guessing it should penetrate at cracks etc. otherwise maybe the wax approach would best as some have UV inhibitors.
blumax
(deceased)
Preserving original wood finish--
For about 30 years I have used Renaissance micro-crystaline wax-polish to preserve the originai wood in the BLUMAX.
Today all wood has remained as new now has a soft patina like sheen. This product was developed for the British Museum to preserve art objects.
Use VERY SPARINGLY--allow short drying time--then buff withh flannel or fine micro fiber polishing cloth.
For about 30 years I have used Renaissance micro-crystaline wax-polish to preserve the originai wood in the BLUMAX.
Today all wood has remained as new now has a soft patina like sheen. This product was developed for the British Museum to preserve art objects.
Use VERY SPARINGLY--allow short drying time--then buff withh flannel or fine micro fiber polishing cloth.