Quality drill bits
- Thread starter Nicad
- Start date
I don't think they even exist!
What are you drilling into? I just experienced 1) snapping a stud in the engine block of the Willys 2) drilling out the stud with a carbide bit 3) snapping said bit 4) buying a very expensive bit to grind out broken bit 5) throw in the towel, yank engine and take it over to a pro. The point is that through this experience I learned about different bits for different applications. Some require applying pressure and/or lubricant while others requires heat. In the end I decided I actually needed a better drill and not better bits
+1
there are many types of drill bits depending the application,
i have different sets depending if i am working with wood, steel (two different sets), or as it was mentioned one specific work on the engine block
in this last case i used two bits, one was carbide and the other had atrificial diamond plaquettes, the later worked very well into the block but broke the plaquettes soon, and i had to finish the work with the carbide, that was slower but succeeded
Well I would say I mostly want these bits for drilling into mild steel with my drill press. I have a ton of dull and cheap bits in all the wrong sizes and just want to start fresh with a complete line up. I also have an older drill doctor I bought used on Ebay and for the life of me I can't get it to work.
i am surounded by companies that make dril bits and other cutting tools here
this one, founded in 1910 does only these type of products
the question is to decide to go for a type and material, HSS is the normal type, an HSSE with 5% Co will be perfect for most applications in your car including an extra for those special cases in which a harder material is involved, but you can go up to diamond cutting edges too,...
http://www.izartool.com/images/descargas/pdfs/001-216-pro-14.pdf
even in inches
http://www.izartool.com/images/CATALOGO_IZAR_FRACCIONAL_2012_MR.pdf
Bwana
Well-Known Member
I have had no luck with my Drill Doctor either. I can get the correct 59 degree angle but the leading edge is always just slightly inwards so the drill won't start.
For metal, get a cobalt steel set ($30-$60) and a Irwin Unibit. I use the Unibit more on sheet metal. Try not to use these on wood. Why? (1) mine usually have some oil or cutting fluid on them which I might not want on the wood, (2) tip geometry might not be the best for wood, (3) don't want pitch buildup on my metal bits (when drilling things like pine), (4) why use an expensive tool out in the yard where you might drop it on the pavement or lose it when a cheap tool is just as good.
For wood, I got a cheap $15 set of Ti coated bits from the local HI store (21 pcs, huge set).
For wood, I got a cheap $15 set of Ti coated bits from the local HI store (21 pcs, huge set).
Last edited:
Didn't realize wood dulls cobalt drill bits. For wood when I have the time to drag them out I like a Forstner set I bought at Home Depot and for larger holes on sheet metal I have this set which makes a perfect hole through sheet metal right up to 1.8 inch mild steel.
http://www.amazon.com/Blair-Equipme...27&sr=1-1&keywords=blair+equipment+rotabroach
Anyone else have bad luck with a Drill doctor?
http://www.amazon.com/Blair-Equipme...27&sr=1-1&keywords=blair+equipment+rotabroach
Anyone else have bad luck with a Drill doctor?
Last edited: