Radiator switching

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x_atlas0

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Hello, everybody.

I have been researching this for a few days and haven't come to a solid conclusion, so I thought I would ask.

Is the E12 530i radiator a direct (or nearly direct) fit into our coupes? My radiator is probably more past its prime than zener diodes, and needs to be replaced. I found a NOS E12 530i rad, so I figured I would start there. Everything I have found only talks about upgrading the E12 radiator with the E28 one.
 
An E12 or E3 radiator can be made to fit.
However that said an alternative is to use a competent radiator shop to repair, recore, and test your old one for much the same price, or less than a new one.
You could even get it "upgraded", eg more tubes etc.
I have had this done for my 2002Tii and it cost less than a new one from BMW.
Also repairing your old one - at least you know it will fit :)
Whatever you decide to do make sure that your cooling fan (by whatever method) is working ok
HTH
Malc
 
I the one I am looking at is ~100$, and any recoring will cost considerably more than that.

So what all must be done to make ti fit?
 
If you old radiator is goosed it has to come out anyway. If you buy the NOS one then just see if the mount holes line up etc if not you may have to make up some brackets. Hose inlets and outlets are probably going to be in basically the same places anyway.
Malc
 
radiators

I went down the re-core route. Used the old tanks, and had it redone with an "upgraded" core. Been in place 15 years now! No issues.
 
Radiator questions

I have retained original E-9 radiator--with brass end tanks and have re-cored with triple core+installed upgraded viscous fan--the major cause of overheat with the E-9 & E-3's that I have observed through ownership of 5 early cars--they came with the original two row core. a wimpy five blade fan and the old type fan clutch that was the main contributor for failure--it would silently wear out unbeknownst to the owner and the first sign was an overheat usually in traffic where no airflow was available to kept its cool.

Also--when these cars were designed the German engineers designed cooling systems to operate in moderate European climates--not the temparature ranges experienced throughout the U.S.--they also assumed that owners would regularly service their cooling systems--a foolish assumption based on my years of active ownership and observations at my local Independent BMW shop--periodic service--by draining, flushing coolant and replacing with a 50/50 coolant/H2O solution+a new thermostat every 60K miles and all new hoses with fresh clamps as necessary every 100K will prevent overheat issues--but is almost universally ignored by even well intended owners.

Since thorough sorting of my cooling systems--never a problem here in sunny SoCal--have driven in 100+F temps. on Freeways sometimes bumper to bumper, desert running at high speed and mountain driving--without an over-heat.

consider this--the early brass radiator parts and overflow tank are by far better quality, they are repairable and more durable than new stuff--and suggest stay away from the plastic o'flow tank if possible--a real piece of junk!!
 
Re: Radiator questions

I have retained original E-9 radiator--with brass end tanks and have re-cored with triple core+installed upgraded viscous fan--the major cause of overheat with the E-9 & E-3's that I have observed through ownership of 5 early cars--they came with the original two row core. a wimpy five blade fan and the old type fan clutch that was the main contributor for failure--it would silently wear out unbeknownst to the owner and the first sign was an overheat usually in traffic where no airflow was available to kept its cool.

Also--when these cars were designed the German engineers designed cooling systems to operate in moderate European climates--not the temparature ranges experienced throughout the U.S.--they also assumed that owners would regularly service their cooling systems--a foolish assumption based on my years of active ownership and observations at my local Independent BMW shop--periodic service--by draining, flushing coolant and replacing with a 50/50 coolant/H2O solution+a new thermostat every 60K miles and all new hoses with fresh clamps as necessary every 100K will prevent overheat issues--but is almost universally ignored by even well intended owners.

Since thorough sorting of my cooling systems--never a problem here in sunny SoCal--have driven in 100+F temps. on Freeways sometimes bumper to bumper, desert running at high speed and mountain driving--without an over-heat.

consider this--the early brass radiator parts and overflow tank are by far better quality, they are repairable and more durable than new stuff--and suggest stay away from the plastic o'flow tank if possible--a real piece of junk!!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggesttions, blumax. The car has all new hoses, a new thermostat, new water pump, new upgraded fan clutch, and the 9 blade fan. The overflow tank was plastic when I got it. The new rad I am condiering is completely metal, rather than ones of the new junky ones with plastic end tanks.
 
E12 radiator ought to fit without mods ...

provided it's auto or manual as appropriate. Have you tried yours yet?

If you have your original radiator recored, be sure to specify no increase in core thickness.
 
I broke (parted out) A E12 M535 many many years ago and the rad looked identical to my E9 however it was in petty poor shape so I didn't keep it. You could always ask for the dimensions of the rad you've been offered just to be safe.

gazzol
 
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