Rear Axle Flange removal HELP!

dhanna

dhanna

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https://goo.gl/photos/UrfiLcdkjXJMNY7Z8

Hi all,

Please have a look at the Photo Provided at link above I'm having the worst time getting this nut to break loose. I'm using my impact gun on it's strongest setting but I can't seem to get the 30mm socket to seat properly on it so I quit before I destroyed the nut anyone else encounter this issue? I didn't know what terms to search for.

for help I thanks you!

Dan
 
I don't know for sure about the e9, but the Porsche 928 axle nuts I've removed over tehe past 15 years (same 'type' independent rear suspension) had a torque value of abouit 400+ ft lbs. Most of us could only get that nut loose by keeping a wheel/tire on the axle and on the ground. We then accessed the nut through the center hole in the wheel, using the correct socket, a LONG/STRONG bar with a pi.e on it. We then stood on the pipe at the distance needed for our weight (e.g ~32-36" for 150 lb person), and flexed up and down a few times. This usually broke them loose! Used essentially the same technique to get the correct torque on them, but rotating the nut clockwise instead of counter clockwise.

Hope this might help.
 
Gary you are correct. The book gives a range of something like 285-325 lbs. Some impact wrenches go up to and beyond those numbers.
 
Impact wrenches don't work well on moving objects

Use a 3/4 breaker with a 5 'extension
 
Yeah the heat might be necessary actually. Upon closer inspection there seems to be a red residue resembling Red Loctite :shock: and the CV axles took alot of coaxing to let go their flanges.

Upon re-assembly should I use some sort of thread locking compound?

Thanks for all the input folks I'll give some of this a try this week and post updates
 
the red residue. ..

I believe is not loctite but the factory applied paint to indicate it was torqued . It seems to me also your nut has been removed before. And yes, they need alotta force.



Reinstalation is done with a locking ring that is round on the oustide and hexagonal on the inside. After torqing the nut, slide the ring over the nut and bend the edge into the groove on the wheelarm.

I took a second look to your pic and perhaps that ring is still in there preventing the nut to rotate. Could it be that in your pic, in the dark cornner at 5 o'clock there is the groove?
Now dont let us think you haven't got the mussle..��
erik.
 
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yeah I screwed up on not removing the locking ring I tried to bend in the locking tab with a punch I'll be attempting to remove the thing tonight :)
 
OK so after putting on some penetrating fluid and putting the trailing arm assembly facedown into the wheel and bending the tab back on the lock washer and using a 12 point socket that has a thinner wall my impact wrench made mincemeat of the removal task here's a pic

https://goo.gl/photos/U8x768TJPAF4nRzt5

Now I need to find a tool resembling a ball joint or oversized tie rod end remover to push the axles out looks like it's off to harbor freight again
 
Yes but only because it was rusted to the nut and I couldn't pry it out there was no resistance once it broke loose
 
Well done - I already had the arm off my E3 so drilled down through the nut and split it to loosen and get it off.
 
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You'll either need to press the splined end out or if you're lucky you'll be able to pound it out. Just be careful not to damage the threads or splines. You could also use an axle puller.
 
axle out

Cheap way if you have no tools;

Screw the nut back on, almost full depth.
Then ideally try a heavy rubber, copper or aluminium hamer, this should protect the nut for severe damage; you'll get some scratches though. If your not fussy about it, you could reuse the nut.

If you use a steel hammer, it'll work even easier (more mass& impact) but you'll probably make flat spots on the nut, surely making it useless; reusing it could cause thread damge to the axle. Buy two new nuts, ~2*2 euro's, available at dealer.

As you mentioned having a 3 legged puller, you could also try and use that to push the spline out. Carefully position the 3 legs as best as you can, they don't have to be positioned very evenly, even a bit off centre sometimes works. Hook the legs of the puller behind the thick steel flange.
If the large thin steel plate (brake heat shield) is in the way to position the pullers legs, then remove that first.

Erik.
 
dhanna said:
OK new update I was able to use a three jaw puller and I pulled off the inner flange and thought the outer flange would slide right out but no such luck what's the next step here?
Pic at the link below:

https://goo.gl/photos/2dBFQnw59BmbrXcm6

the repair manual on e9driven.com see link:
http://www.e9-driven.com/Public/Library/BMW-E9-Manual/PICS/D/PIC33/41100001_z.jpg

seems to show a mallet being employed can I use an air hammer or a press?
Click to expand...

can you please post the pics directly into the text ?
the thread is very good, but it is not flowing well due to the need of opening the pictures in a different place
 
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having trouble creating photo albums I don't know if it's a size problem or what it is I'll try to figure it out this week

in the mean time sort of an update I can't seem to get the axles out with a mallot or a steel hammer and I damaged the threads on one of the axles so I'm either gonna have to restore the threads or replace the outer axle flange

:cry::oops::-?:confused::neutral::evil::mad:
 
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