I'm replacing my rear springs with lowered ones (and the fronts also), wondering what the wisdom is to remove them. The usual spring compressors which I would rent from a local auto store? I've done the fronts several times but the rears will be the first for me. Advice? Thanks for the help!
Rear Spring Compressors
- Thread starter bill
- Start date
Do the rear springs need to be compressed to get on and off? I remember doing it for the front (never again) but thinking the rears just come off?
Ideally, if the car is on a lift, use a tall jack for installing transmissions, place under the wishbone and undo the rear shock. Then drop the wishbone till the spring is loose and pry the spring out with a crowbar.
Indeed, no need for spring compressors.
This is one aspect where an e9 is actually easy. It may be the only part...
This is one aspect where an e9 is actually easy. It may be the only part...
But getting the shock back on the lower mount takes nerve to smack it with a big hammer!
That's what I want to hear! Thanks!
Excellent...I hate buying/renting tools I can use only once.
i compress the shock and keep it in place with plumbers wire, slip it on, then release it up the tower
that is the way to do it, yes, no hammer but a piece of wire
another interesting consideration is the limitation in angle for the CV joint bars, i recall no more than 20deg was stated by the blue manuals
i recall a bit of compression was needed not to excess the a.m. angle
IF you lower the differential together with the rear wheels, then the angle does not change, but indeed DeQuincey is right: If the angle of the half shafts to the differential becomes >20 (or was it 18 or 17?) degrees, the metal cups holding the rubber around the CV joint can bend & damage. they could loose the 'grease-tight' ability.
For reinstallation of the gas strut, I first compressed it (I have BIlstein, I just leaned on it). tied it off with a rope. Then mount the strut to the axle. I used a piece of rope, looped around the top of the strut and back through itself to gently release the strut, expending it upward, and direct the threaded end through the hole in the trunk. the spring does not need compression when reinstalling. (if you are able to lift the car of the rear subframe that is)
For reinstallation of the gas strut, I first compressed it (I have BIlstein, I just leaned on it). tied it off with a rope. Then mount the strut to the axle. I used a piece of rope, looped around the top of the strut and back through itself to gently release the strut, expending it upward, and direct the threaded end through the hole in the trunk. the spring does not need compression when reinstalling. (if you are able to lift the car of the rear subframe that is)
Plumbers' wire...izzat like electricians' pipe?
there is a writeup and photos in a thread i did some years ago, i used the rope, stevehose used the plumbers strap
yes the cv joint yellow metal cups will suffer, my advise use compressors and no hammer
that's exactly what i thought you meant. i remember holding a spring compressed on my mgb gt with a few long hose clamps ... pretty lightweight spring though
Doesn't the thing come with a plastic band that has it compressed, in the box? That's what I used, then just aim, release and guide through the strut tower.
To compress the shock whilst I installed it I used plastic parcel tape, the sort that is often yellow and about 12 mm wide, 0.5mm thick and super strong. it was also the best stuff to get into locked cars in the early 1980s when I worked at a each car park. PM me if you need details.
Then to avoid flexing the drive shafts too far I removed them. Also did a new rubber CV boot whilst I was at it. Lowering the diff would be a better option as suggested above by Erik.
Then to avoid flexing the drive shafts too far I removed them. Also did a new rubber CV boot whilst I was at it. Lowering the diff would be a better option as suggested above by Erik.
When reinstalling both the spring and the shock using the methods described above, is there any advantage to doing shock first or spring first? On the face of it, it would seem easiest to do the shock first since it is “behind” the spring…. True?
I use a floor jack. I don’t have a lift so that “helps”