Rear wheel bearing lifespan?

Stevehose

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I spoke to Mesa today about getting the rear wheel bearing kits, Jim said that unless the car has 150k miles or so on it not to bother because they last for a long time and are a major PITA to replace (which I have read). I appreciate his attempting to talk me out of an easy sale.

I am not experiencing any issues, should i leave them be or go ahead and git 'er done now? I don't want to drop the subframe again in my lifetime if possible.

What say the experts?
 
I did mine. I don't remember it being that difficult. Now is the time. How many miles on the car? 40 year old bearings and grease.......
 
That's what I am thinking. I have about 49k on the car but the old grease is what concerns me. I guess I will replace.

Now is the time. How many miles on the car? 40 year old bearings and grease.......
 
Steve,

i did it on my bavaria about 25 years ago. big difference in shadetree style and professional. its not hard, but its a lot easier with a couple of bearing drivers. and an air impact wrench to take the nut off of the hub / axle spindle (the hub naturally wants to spin). its also easier to drive the hub out while the rear suspension is in the car. once you have the axle spindle out, then you drive the bearings out. as i remember, i put the handle thru the inner (big) bearing and drove the outer bearing out, then drove the inner bearing out. im not positive, but this is what i remember as that was a long time ago
 
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I haven't tried rear bearing replacement on my coupe, but did it on the 325i my daughter drives. That car had 160kmiles on it.

On the 325i, rear bearing removal was an all-afternoon session, upside down and under the car, beating on a driver, in my case a 2 foot long bit of 1.5" galvanized pipe. I used a 2.5 pound sledge, with a friend backing up the trailing arm with the head of my six-pounder. I sledged my hand a couple times but thankfully never between the driver and sledge. The bearing is destroyed on removal of the hub and stub axle. The inner race came out on the stub axle and was removed by using a dremel to groove it, then a cold chisel to crack it off. That part was not difficult. The outer race is really really stuck in the trailing arm. I only did one side, the other side is still quiet thousands of miles later. My consolation was that it made quite a difference.

I later had a conversation with a retired ex-dealer tech about the job. His words were that sometimes those bearings just fall out into your fingers, but some took pretty much the level of force I used. He of course always had access to the correct special tools, air impact, puller, a lift, etc., and even then some needed major force.

Were I to contemplate this project I'd want to be certain it was needed. To do that, I'd lift the car, disconnect the half shaft and observe how the wheel spun, how it stopped, and use a mechanic's stethoscope if I had one or could rig something up.

But hey... YMMV!
 
Seems to me you could always do that when the car is back together. Were you going to resist the urge to powder coat the rear end "While you are at it" ? They'll need to come out for that.
 
Steve,

Here's some pics from when I did it on the E3. I removed the arm and then did all the work on the bench/floor. Not hard at all using an air gun to remove the nut and the either press or use a dead blow hammer to drive the hub out. You will need to do the measurements as described in the manual on the spacer sleeve and spacers to ensure correct endfloat. I needed to order some spacer rings and some were OK. Keep this in mind as items from Germany are taking a bit of time as posted elsewhere. You will also need the fresh securing plates for the hub nuts. What I used is one of the Harbor Fight bearing pullers. I have more than one set so I'm not certain which one that is.

I warmed up the arms in the oven and cooled the bearings in dry ice and they nearly dropped in place. A bit of tapping might have been required.

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Thanks much for this, I am struggling with the bearing/spacing measurement procedure, the book is very cryptic ("Distance = A and so on). Why cant I just reuse the same spacers that are in it now? Is there a more specific and clearer explanation of this procedure somewhere?
 
You presumable can't "just re-use" because the new bearing may not have the same thickness parallel to the axle. That said, when I did the 325i, there were no spacers nor did I pay attention to the possible need for such.

Good tip to freeze the bearing prior to install, I did that in my fridge, lacking a ready supply of dry ice. Hot air gun on the trailing arm.
 
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Steve,

different approach. measure the bearings you are taking out with a caliper and the ones you are putting in and see if they are the same. when i did the bavaria, they were the same so i didn't change anything ... and 50k miles with no problem. it was interesting, when i did the bavaria, the new bearings i got were the sealed type, not the type that came on the car that you have to grease. now that i think about it, i think i still have 1 set of those in the box ... and i have the new sets i got from Mario with the reconditioned stub axles.
 
Steve,

different approach. measure the bearings you are taking out with a caliper and the ones you are putting in and see if they are the same. when i did the bavaria, they were the same so i didn't change anything ... and 50k miles with no problem. it was interesting, when i did the bavaria, the new bearings i got were the sealed type, not the type that came on the car that you have to grease. now that i think about it, i think i still have 1 set of those in the box ... and i have the new sets i got from Mario with the reconditioned stub axles.

I could be wrong but the allowed play is small enough that a difference in how well the bearing is seated could influence the play if you only measure the bearing thickness out o the arm. But I can't argue w 50k miles of problem-free operation...
 
Why would the width of the bearings matter if measuring between the sides that go flush against the shoulder? wouldnt this distance be the same given that the bearings are flush against the shoulder?

What is the purpose of the sleeve and spacer anyway?

I got the old bearings out without too much excitement. I have an electric impact wrench that works well and my orange BFH is coming in handy.

Steve,

different approach. measure the bearings you are taking out with a caliper and the ones you are putting in and see if they are the same. when i did the bavaria, they were the same so i didn't change anything ... and 50k miles with no problem. it was interesting, when i did the bavaria, the new bearings i got were the sealed type, not the type that came on the car that you have to grease. now that i think about it, i think i still have 1 set of those in the box ... and i have the new sets i got from Mario with the reconditioned stub axles.
 
OK, so let me try this but it may be a bit like "who's on first." The sleeve and ring arrangement is all about controlling the axial endplay of the inner rings of the bearings, relative to the outer rings. The sleeve rests against both bearings' inner rings. The outer bearing's outer ring is in a fixed position against the shoulder. However the outer ring of the inner bearing rests on the (variable thickness) spacer ring "C". Therefore you control the axial play of the inner/outer ring combo to a prescribed range (of .002-.004") by the location of the outer ring of that bearing which in turn is determined by the thickness of ring "C". Does that make sense...?
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okay, here's my take on it. the outer (big) bearing is up against the stop on the hub - so in reality, it shouldn't make a difference on the thickness of the outer or inner bearing. what matters is that the sleeve matches the distance from the hub to the spacer (where they meet the inner bearing). so here's why it worked for me. if you keep the sleeve and spacer on the same side - it should match.

ok here's where the rub could be ... if the spacer or the sleeve has worn due a bearing going out ... then you will have an issue.

does this make sense?
 
Ok tell me if this has finally sunk into my thick head: the spacer's hole is larger than the end of the sleeve, therefore the sleeve should be .002-.004" from being flush to the bearing-side surface of the ring so that when the bearing goes in flush against the ring, this distance is kept in tact?

I like Scott's scenario and will check it out, I am not sure how to accurately measure to the shoulder down to .002" - wouldn't it be easier to measure the distance to the edge of the shoulder with the ring in there?

Thanks for your patience. I am not that dumb...really.

OK, so let me try this but it may be a bit like "who's on first." The sleeve and ring arrangement is all about controlling the axial endplay of the inner rings of the bearings, relative to the outer rings. The sleeve rests against both bearings' inner rings. The outer bearing's outer ring is in a fixed position against the shoulder. However the outer ring of the inner bearing rests on the (variable thickness) spacer ring "C". Therefore you control the axial play of the inner/outer ring combo to a prescribed range (of .002-.004") by the location of the outer ring of that bearing which in turn is determined by the thickness of ring "C". Does that make sense...?
41601004.jpg
 
I think your both disregarding or overlooking the fact that a bearing isn't a solid ring. It's made up of two rings, inner and outer, that have movement, play, relative to one another. Your new bearings' amount of play can (will?) be different than that of your old bearings. Therefore the different thickness rings. Over and out...
 
Luis,

a rear bearing is made to rotate, but under load has little ability to move sideways. surely a worn bearing has more chance to move laterally ... but i just picked up a brand new set of bearings, and i was hardpressed to try to move it laterally. much different than a front bearing.
 
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