mdf
Active Member
Do rear windows go down on all E9 coupes or just some. Mine don't seem to go down - but I've noticed that some E9's can lower their rear windows.
Rear Window
- Thread starter mdf
- Start date
Not sure about CSL's, but all other E9's have electric rear quarter windows that move up and down.
Dan
Dan
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Rear windows
I haven't heard of a CS whose rear windows shouldn't go up and down.
That said, electric windows will refuse to cooperate if not used at least once in a while. They get sticky for a variety of reasons, and unfortunately when they are stuck in the up position, (like people) are difficult to deal with. Following are the normal causes of window malfunction, in the approximate order of likeliness.
Also... we have all dealt with this at one time or another, and discussed it over and over on this list. Use the search function, will ya!? But anyway, from my perspective, here goes.
Problem 1: switches get gummed up over the years, and don't switch. Remove the a switch (just pry it up gently), you can use a continuity tester to check for switching action. Or, you can CAREFULLY pry them apart (neat trick: do this in a plastic bag so nothing gets lost) and clean out the dried snot inside, consisting of the original grease (which has dried to snot) plus all the dirt that fell into the innards of the switch. Thus is the switch fixed. New are probably still available, and used come up from time to time on the 'bay, and there are the usual suppliers.
Problem 2: Windows get run into the upper limit of travel and the motor, running full blast at 47:1 (guessing here) reduction, jams them up so hard that it doesn't have the starting torque to take 'em back down. On the fronts at least, there is an accessible nylon gear about an inch in diameter and 3/4 inch wide, hidden behind a circular plastic plug. You can turn this gear a good many revolutions with your finger and see some perceptible motion of the window, then try the switch and it it isn't gummed up (see problem 1) it may come down.
Problem 3: window motor doesn't work although it is getting juice from the switch. The motor and the little reduction gear can suffer the same gummed up fate as the switch, and you have to remove, disassemble, clean, relube and reassemble. May be impossible to remove unless the window is at least partly down, see finger on gear issue above.
Problem 4: the track on which the window slides up and down, and window regulator mechanism, are gummed up with snot (grease and dust) making things just too un-lubricated to work. Some of this you can solvent clean, then re-lube, without disassembly. Some you can't. Wear disposable gloves.
Some convert to E28 rear window motors which are supposedly faster and "better", but unless you have these "just lying around" why not clean the original switches, regulator, motor and mechanism instead. You'll get more satisfaction and have brag rights too.
I haven't heard of a CS whose rear windows shouldn't go up and down.
That said, electric windows will refuse to cooperate if not used at least once in a while. They get sticky for a variety of reasons, and unfortunately when they are stuck in the up position, (like people) are difficult to deal with. Following are the normal causes of window malfunction, in the approximate order of likeliness.
Also... we have all dealt with this at one time or another, and discussed it over and over on this list. Use the search function, will ya!? But anyway, from my perspective, here goes.
Problem 1: switches get gummed up over the years, and don't switch. Remove the a switch (just pry it up gently), you can use a continuity tester to check for switching action. Or, you can CAREFULLY pry them apart (neat trick: do this in a plastic bag so nothing gets lost) and clean out the dried snot inside, consisting of the original grease (which has dried to snot) plus all the dirt that fell into the innards of the switch. Thus is the switch fixed. New are probably still available, and used come up from time to time on the 'bay, and there are the usual suppliers.
Problem 2: Windows get run into the upper limit of travel and the motor, running full blast at 47:1 (guessing here) reduction, jams them up so hard that it doesn't have the starting torque to take 'em back down. On the fronts at least, there is an accessible nylon gear about an inch in diameter and 3/4 inch wide, hidden behind a circular plastic plug. You can turn this gear a good many revolutions with your finger and see some perceptible motion of the window, then try the switch and it it isn't gummed up (see problem 1) it may come down.
Problem 3: window motor doesn't work although it is getting juice from the switch. The motor and the little reduction gear can suffer the same gummed up fate as the switch, and you have to remove, disassemble, clean, relube and reassemble. May be impossible to remove unless the window is at least partly down, see finger on gear issue above.
Problem 4: the track on which the window slides up and down, and window regulator mechanism, are gummed up with snot (grease and dust) making things just too un-lubricated to work. Some of this you can solvent clean, then re-lube, without disassembly. Some you can't. Wear disposable gloves.
Some convert to E28 rear window motors which are supposedly faster and "better", but unless you have these "just lying around" why not clean the original switches, regulator, motor and mechanism instead. You'll get more satisfaction and have brag rights too.
Malc
Well-Known Member
I beleive some of the very last E9s had fixed rear windows. Wasn't this a responce to the oil crisis of 73 etc and it was the smaller engined ones as well.This was I assume to cut the costs down.
Malc
Malc
Most CSiL's and 2.5CS had fixed quarter windows. All others had electric quarters, there were no manual quarter windows on E9 cars.